Swervey McZCar

Well my ECU and MAF were both shot. I had some other parts, and the magical combination of junk yard parts made a car that ran. It's running much better, but rich. I have a 3-wire O2 sensor (84 300zx) and a Fuel pressure regulator (83 280zx) coming in the morning. I "crushed" my last FPR to up the fuel pressure to around 40psi. I was thinking that the combination of these two things would contribute to a rich condition throughout the throttle range.

Scratch all of this. So wrong of me. After studying the diagrams between the 83 and 84, I am going 1: find a better switched + for PIN34 than coil + and eliminate PIN3 to coil -. It was wet today so I didn't get to do a thing.

I may have found something. I can't wait to try it. I failed to mention that I was running a z31-type coil. I thought I knew + from - but. I think the B/W wire going to this coil is actually on the negative side where-as B/W everywhere else on this car means switched positive. If this is true (can anyone confirm pg 2 in the link below?) I just need to swap my PIN 34 Wire to the L (light blue) Wire going to my z31 coil. I will probably eliminate the PIN3 ground also. Is it that simple or should I really revert back to my L28ET coil and trigger? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115483&highlight=300zx+condenser I love this "place"

Thanks again. I set the TPS to "closed" at idle and "open" just off idle. I am beggining to suspect the connectors more and more. I swapped all of my harness plugs to use the 300zx plugs because my 280 plugs were shot. I had to wiggle them constantly. Sometimes it felt like I was using nitrous when the wiggle was just right Anyway, they were a problem so rather than make 100 soldered connections, I swapped each of the female pins in the connectors from the 280 plug to the 300 plug. I am going to do one more check on my (280zxt) CHTS and them I'll be unwrapping the harness again.

Thanks for the advice. I adjusted the timing to 20 degrees and set my TPS after doing the idle and it did help. It is idling pretty smooth, but when I put it under a load there is no go and sometimes a backfire. I was reading the FSM and they mentioned checking the chopper wheel for dust. The chopper wheel I picked up is free of damage and debris, but it does have what look like water stains on it. Does that sucker need to be shiny clean or just free of particles? I will clean it regardless, but I am just wondering if this is the silver bullet. Also, my fuel pump relay is still wired to Key "On" so there is no communication between the ECU and the pump or relay. I figured the ECU would not mind. Am I wrong? Probably. Thanks, -Stan

Did you ever figure this out? I did this swap today and have these exact symptoms. I have a spare MAF I will try in the morning, but I was totally bummed at the outcome. My 84 turbo ECU is blinking all sorts of codes for Fuel Temp sensor, AC, Knock Sensor, etc. Is there consensus that these ECUs will still operate in closed loop withe these missing inputs? Looks like mine is in Diagnostic mode. How can I change that? The swap was very straightforward. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Now I just need to iron out the wrinkles. -Stan

Depends on the wheel. 14" is plenty large to clear around the outside. My western turbine wheels rubbed around the center. Some clear some don't. These wheels did not clear the vented S12+8 (two different sized pistons on vented rotors). I'm running a .25" space and need longer studs.. http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/303/imgp1609y.jpg While these wheels cleared just fine. http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/1706/imgp1607m.jpg The center of the wheel's hub is where the caliper was hitting the wheel. If you take the wheel off and look at the back of the bolt circle. If it looks like the flat mating surface is about the same diameter as the hub you are mounting it to, you are probably fine.

Part number 44155-04S10. That is all I know. I have a set on my car... Pallnet has a set for sale last I heard.

That would work if you have your offset Maxima Brackets.

Go to page 1 of this FAQ. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103767 For the rear, there are several different options depending on the calipers and bracket you use. What year car did the $50 calipers come from?