RS Speed
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Posts posted by RS Speed
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throw on a hose clamp and tighten her up, it's not gonna leak.
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Mine is untouched just like J's and I will be running methanol injection very soon. However I'm actually not the one cranking up my boost just yet. I built my friends S14 along side mine and hes ready for some more power. Identical build to mine except for a built motor so it should be fine (MLS gasket, rods, pistons, bearings, pumps, methanol, etc...)
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heat range 8 seems to be the norm around these power levels... post up those part numbers when you guys get a chance, I'm gonna stock up and try different plugs
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Not at all, i actually have brackets mounted to the bottom of the frame rail which hold it right above the frame rail(almost level).
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Anyone have any good recommendations or experiences with spark plugs that will suit a rb25det running ~23psi on a t3/60-1
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I made my own intercooler piping, the core I got for free from a buddy of mine... most likely an ebay intercooler. To be honest its about 2" too wide, took a lot of work to get the piping through the radiator support. Also if it was shorter I could have mounted the tanks up top so the piping would be shorter but I've grown a liking to the ramhorn look
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you should see the underside.... connects the bottom of the rad to the steering rack/crossmember
also the whole radiator is sealed against the radiator support with weatherstripping, I haven't turned on my electric fans in 4 months lol -
I posted this for someone that was asking about radiators in my build thread, should help you out. They are both 19x24 which is a nice fit in the Z.
http://www.prcracing.com/aluminum-radiators.html (2nd and 4th one down)
My radiator is model number 2111111 with -10an fitting for the oil cooler. They have a few different fitting styles available.
they also have the same radiator with no oil cooler which is part number 2111100
They are both "GM double pass racing aluminum radiators"
Quick pic
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Yes, a picture would help a lot. Welding in mounts to the chassis is not horribly uncommon, if I'm not mistaken all the SR20 guys have to weld in a new cradle when doing swaps. Luckily the RB motor mount location is close enough to the stock Z mounts that something "bolt-on" is easily attainable.
Here's a picture of my drivers side mount, just a little piece that bolts to the block and goes to the factory Z motor mounts.
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments
Delorean:
http://www.prcracing.com/aluminum-radiators.html (2nd and 4th one down)
My radiator is model number 2111111 with -10an fitting for the oil cooler. They have a few different fitting styles available.
they also have the same radiator with no oil cooler which is part number 2111100
They are both "GM double pass racing aluminum radiators"
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Sure did! I won't be able to post any "actual" pics until after the May or June edition comes out with the car in it. Here's a few I snapped of the photoshoot with my iphone... also one teaser pic I was givin lol
teaser
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That particular motor looks pretty clean from those pics, change the front and rear main seal while the motor is out and slap that bad boy in there... I usually take all accessories and covers off the motor and do a nice cleaning but never take a head off or inspect bearings or anything mechanical about the motor unless something looks funny. A nice coolant flush isn't a bad idea, lot of rust in these overseas motors, builds up like mud.
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I think you need to search a lot more before asking the most basic of questions. There's a good drivetrain and suspension section in the main forums which doesn't apply to any motor you have in the car, search there for your answers.
axles don't change your lug count either but doing a CV conversion is very common.
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I would ditch the 4wd idea, its going to involve nothing short of welding on the whole front end assembly firewall forward of a skyline to be able to use the front drive components... stick to rwd.
The rb26dett with rb25det trans is a very common swap and so is the straight rb25det motor and trans combo. If you want an RB these two are your most viable choices with mounts, dshafts, etc already available though vendors.
Welcome to the board
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Tuesday didn't happen.... pushed to next week...
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Scattered rain in SoCal pretty much caused a raincheck on the photoshoot
We are rescheduled for tuesday so hopefully that works out becuase the next possible date is 2 weeks out and I miss driving my car -
My car did that at first. Hardwiring the power to the coils through a relay fixed my problem, hasn't missed since. I am however running a bigger buick coil so maybe mine needed more juice to operate properly but I'm just throwin it out there
Here's a finished pic with the heatshields and the cover in place
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Dont get the MSD fuel pump, I had mine fail in 3 months, after searching forums I saw I wasn't the only one, its a HORRIBLE pump. Get a walbro at the very least if not a nice bosch 044 or an aeromotive pump, i repeat do NOT get the msd lol.
Don't forget a clutch too
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shes a 280sel, long wheelbase with the fuel injected inline 6. I was really close to getting a 4.5 but the deal fell through, but they are gorgeous looking car arent they!
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Getting her cleaned up for the photoshoot, snapped a few pics with the iphone. I changed the lines for the valve cover breathers to AN lines and fittings, got new heatshields (forgot to take picture), custom carbon fiber oil cap, intake manifold plaque which reads "RS SPEED 250Z" and general underhood cleanup. I forgot to take a picture with the custom coilpack cover, it should look pretty sweet!
I also cleaned up the interior and did some gauge work. The 300zx speedo and tach are installed and fully functional, I can finally see the numbers at night!!!! Also installed three autometer gauges (got them for free so why not) and moved my AEM truboost and wideband to the top stack. I think im going to get a AEM electric fuel pressure to finish off the top and mount my datsun fuel/oil temp gauge in the left hvac duct.
Also the photoshoot got delayed to sunday since it might be raining on saturday which gives me an extra day to clean her up some more haha. Oh and methanol injection is in the works, coming soon after the photoshoot. I need to get that and my CV conversion finished by March because we have a track event on April 2nd. Anyone in SoCal is more than welcome to attend to watch or participate, gonna be a full day of racing at button willow!
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That's a tough question. I bought and installed a lot of parts which aren't MANDATORY for getting the car running so my price might be a little higher than someone that does a bone stock install. But I would guess a safe 5K should be put aside for a basic swap with the necessary items to get the car running properly.
Personally I would get brakes and suspension first and then move into the swap so with those items you are looking at a decent chunk of change which needs to be addressed before the swap is even in the picture. Also I redid fuel system even when I was running a stock turbo because its just easier to get things ready for your future plans when the motor is still out.
Good luck on the project btw!
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Guys name is Nate, seems like a really nice guy!
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Got the date locked in for the Modified Mag photoshoot!!! Gonna be this saturday, most likely a beach/ocean location.
I must say im pretty excited, hopefully hell give me the pics he takes in a CD or something so I can post some up
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you can send your ecu to nistune and he will install the board for $50 if I remember correctly.
We are rescheduled for tuesday so hopefully that works out becuase the next possible date is 2 weeks out and I miss driving my car 
Blow through vs Draw Through MAF systems on chipped ECU
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
I usually stick with recirculated and a draw through system but its just a preference, I'm not a big BOV noise kinda guy. That being said I ran around with no recirc on my sr20 s14 for about 4 years and its not that bad, mine personally never stalled, just raised the idle to 900-1k. There is a definite rich mix and slight delay in throttle response after shifts though.
If you decide to go blow through I would place it on the cold side of the piping so it can better meter the temp and density of the charge entering your motor. best bet would be as far as t-body as you can before the bend to your intercooler... not really alot of space for piping in these Z's lol.