RS Speed
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Posts posted by RS Speed
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Only thing toyota brake related on their website is the basic vented disc upgrade. I already have that and was wonding if there was some bracket which used an even bigger disc with toyota 4x4 calipers
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hmmm i must have read through and missed something earlier. You mention the splitter is the acutal proportioning valve and I mentioned I bypassed it. What I meant was I bypassed that little valve right before the tee (i believe it has something to do with holding pressure for drum brakes) So there is a proportioning valve in the T itself which splits the rear circuit to left/right? If so Im gonna gut that puppy and see if it starts putting more pressure on the rear, then I could always run a valve to reduce the rear pressure if its locking early.
Can you confirm its the splitter T in the rear that does the proportioning and not the little thing right before the T which I bypassed?
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Does anyone make an adapter to run a larger rotor on the vented 4x4 calipers?
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I couldn't see a z just some pictures of rust LOL head for the HILLS!!!!!
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Don't care if its broken or dirty, I want to hock out the gauges and retrofit into my 240z, wanting to pay around 50 shipped.
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Do 85 maxima rear calipers take the same pads as 240sx rear calipers...
I went through hawks application guide and came up with this part number for rear ht-10 pads: HB262S.540
When searching for the part number on google it brings up 240sx pads and I went back and checked on hawks website and it lists the two under the same part number.
BUT when I looked for axxis ULT (what im running in the front toyota calipers) they list no application for the maxima but they do list one for the 240sx.... is it probably a small difference like a wear sensor or did they not do enough R&D to see what it fits on. Most likely they should work if I get the axxis for a 240sx in my maxima caliper right?
Also does anyone have any experiance with Hawk HT-10 pads... im considering those over the axxis ULTs for my next pad, thinking of starting with the rear.
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I hope my axxis ultras hold up on the next track event. My friend had good results on his s14 and im hoping the 4x4 calipers and ultras cut it... if not im going the wilwood route
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hey my Z is a 10/70 production date HLS30-11xxx, I wish i was under the 10k mark
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Good to know I'm not the only one. I'm currently running some weak pads, whatever came loaded in the caliper, so I'm hoping I could see some improvement with a decent pad in the rear. Thanks for the input.
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Sorry I couldn't have been more help, must be a weird 200zr thing or is it possible your ecu is a bit screwy. Most nissan's I have worked on in the states use a ground from the ecu to activate the fuel pump relay which in turn powers the pump... good luck man.
On a side note, the priming really isnt all that important, if you can manage to wire it somehow that the pumps shuts off when the motor turns off you should be fine. This would save you incase of an accident which I would say is the most important part. Other than that I've seen lots of people run it direct off ignition which poses the danger of a fire in case of a fuel spill/accident but we all hope for the best and assume this situation will never happen lol.
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I have already bypassed the said valve you are talking about in the rear rather than gutting it. If you notice in my first post I mentioned my rear pads are less grabby than the fronts, I just wanted a clear understanding of whats going on but my first step was going to be ceramic pads in the rear then see where it goes. Thanks for the help bud.
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Heel and toe has been in my bag of tricks since I got my drivers license 25 years ago. I had to keep the clunker from stalling while braking, and learned H&T as a result.
Same way i've learned to master the heal toe, driving a mafs car with no BOV for a couple years will do that to you. I find myself even doing it on my Z even though it idles fine... bad habit i guess. Funny thing is my toyota truck needs heel toe til this day to keep the rpms high enough when the AC is on so it doesn't cycle the compressor from getting the rpm too low hahah.
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Makes sense, I was unsure on the topic so I though I would make this thread. Does the 15/16 280zx master cylinder split the front and rear pressure equally or does the front get more fluid? Would reversing the front and rear reservoir lines to the splitter on the frame rail change to a more rear biased setup? Lastly does the splitter on the driver frame rail have any restriction/proportioning of its own or is it simply flowing fluid to the correct lines.
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Are most people plumbing these valves into the rear lines enabling them to decrease rear line pressure? reason I ask is because I would like to INCREASE rear line pressure but I always see people installing it in the rear which means people are reducing the rear line pressure. My car is finally breaking like it should and I am happy so far but I was thinking I could get it to brake a bit better since the front are locking wayyyy sooner that the rears still. So I guess I would have to install the valve inline going to the splitter on the driverside frame rail to decrease my front line pressure so the rears can catch up a bit.... anyways heres a quick rundown of my system, just wondering if anyone else has one installed on the front lines.
1971 240z
280zx 15/16 master
stock proportioning valve on frame rail
removed rear pressure valve thing for drum brakes near rear tee
vented 4x4 brakes up front (ceramic pads)
maxima brakes in rear (semi-metallic, im thinking ceramic in the rear would help with my problem too but lets ignore this for now)
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first off are you sure you have the right wire? Is it a black wire with a pink stripe? You need to hook up the test light to a power source like your battery terminal (alligator clip side) and put the tip of the test light on the black pink wire. If the light turns on and then off when the ignition is switched on(priming the pump) then you have the right wire (switched ground). Don't check for voltage (there will obviosly be voltage if you are connecting a positive wire and a switched ground)
if you ground you alligator clip and put the tip of the test light on the black/pink wire and it lights up you are on your own.... lol
You run the black pink wire to pin 2 along with a switched ignition to pin 1. Then you run a direct line from battery with 20 amp inline fuse to pin 3 on relay and run pin 5 on the relay to the pump positive. Ground the pump and you have succesfully hardwired your fuel pump... mine reads around 14.5v at the pump and runs of the factory ecu... 300zx ecu for what its worth but it should be the same.
Here is a cute diagram I drew for some guy at one point or another lol
if you are not using a standard nissan blue relay just follow the drawing on the relay, they are all very simliar.
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I modified a 240z front bumper. Cut it to length, bent the arms in and welded it up. I deposited a bunch of metal on it and grinded it down till I had the right shape. I'd like to add that I wouldn't have butchered a good 240z bumper. I got it for free, the front was mangled up but the sides were very straight so it only made sense to do what I did. Overall I love how it came out with the grill I made for it.
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Hey man, good to finally meet you and see the car in person. Looks great. I will be pm'ing you a few questions soon.
I just realized I looked like a dirty shop rag when you saw me too, hahaha, I had been working on the car all day and was covered head to toe. I just wanted to get out on a test drive so I hopped in the car looking like a homeless kid
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I'm still confused on where I am going with as far as color in concerned. I might just leave it flat black or paint it one of three colors. GTR blue was my original choice and I've been throwing around the idea of dark silver metallic or dark gray metallic. At this point I'm just sitting on it though, going to get the car running exactly like I want it before I get into paint.
Next on the list is the refinement stage. I just finished up bumpsteer spacers yesterday, I'm considering moving the mounting point of the control arms up on the subframe but I'm gonna see how it feels like this first. I've gathered most of my parts for the rear CV conversion, just waiting on adapters. I ordered a heater core and blower from summit racing so I can make it through the winter lol. Also going to install my MSA seal kit, I was waiting for the paint job but im sick of the wind noise and I will buy another kit if I have too. Lastly I want to install a really good overhead light for the interior, I feel like I'm blind at night Lol.
After that I'm looking to do a turbo upgrade. Something like a gt30r, 60-1, t3/to4e, etc... anything in the 400-500hp range. I'm ready to do the upgrade right now, pretty much waiting to find a good deal so I can justify spending the money
Great build man.I love how super clean it looks.
About the color, since you got carbon fiber parts I suggest you go with blue.
Flat black is awesome but it just hides the carbon's affect.
I'm currently going under with an RB26 swap but its ugly & taking way too long.
It due to being in Kuwait, parts are hard to come by & ordering parts take about a month to arrive...
I admire your work though, whats next on your list?
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The endtanks were an inch to wide so they didn't fit through the original holes in the crossmember. Mounting them on the bottom gave me enough room to swing them in and they look pretty cool IMO. I could have welded 90s directly on the endtanks but I doubt it will make a difference as far as spool in concerned, these cars already have shorter piping than most cars with front mounts.
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I just saw you with the S2000 right? Sorry I was caught up in getting my brake light fixed and when my car needs me my mind is on "fix the car" mode. (ending up being a fuse, I put it a new one which happened to be bad so I was diagnosing crap for no reason, popped in another fuse and it was good to go)
The pump is a external pump that my friend had for his turbo 350z. I had a 300lph MSD pump which died in about 3 months. I was pulled on the side of the road and I remembered my friend had the external laying around so I picked it up for $50 so I can get the car off the road and its been fine since. I wanna say its something along the lines of a 255 walbro inline but its a different brand and rated at 300 lph, I remember it started with the letter "P" lol. What ever you do don't buy a MSD pump....garbage.
The one vent was near the top of the tank, I just ran a hose up a bit from the nipple (5/16" if memory serves me right) then pointed it back down. I figure it will vent from there there even with a lot of gas and there was less chance of fuel spilling out, been cool so far
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Whatever you do don't get a MSD pump. I've installed two and both have failed within 6 months. After reading online I saw I'm not the only who had them fail. I've had way better luck with walbros, not the MOST reliable pump but tons better than MSD in my opinion. An aeromotive or bosch 044 is going to be your best bet.
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Any of you guys mind sharing timing maps, Im running a nistune too and I'm curious what everyone else is running for timing.
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Yep, th350. About 15psi cold in the tires.
Motor is unopened. I swapped valve covers and oil pan. Thats it!
LOL Phil.
Sweetness, I hope mine holds up as well as yours does! I'm rockin stock headgasket and studs too. Other than seals, and smalls gaskets here and there and some powdercoating she's the same as the day nissan put her together
How much power are you putting down with and w/o nitrous?
questions on wilwood and similar brake proportioning valve
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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That's awesome so there is hope after all. Do you think I should just gut it first and see if there is too much brakes in the rear and then see if I need the prop valve. Or is it going to be way to much pressure in the rear from your personal experience. Thanks btw you have been a great help