cencalz

I notice on several pics the fuel line run around the front of the valve cover. I know the stock fuel pump and filter is there but is there any other reason why it shouldn't be run across the firewall into the carbs.

I looked but didn't see anything. My suggestion is to have a "favorite" menu item or something simular. Where we can create and save a shortcut to a post that we are interested in for future reference without have to search for it and can't remember the topic title.

If your not looking for the factory piece i found the window sweep on a 90's Chevy truck is also most the same dimensions. It is black Plastic instead of chrome. It is about 1/2" longer which can be cut to the right lenght. The part on the outside of the door (the black plastic part) is about 1/16" longer but it fits. But the sweep rubber fits perfectly. I used the black weatherstrip adhesive to hold it to the door.

Yes your partially correct. The lower the pressure after expansion the colder the media. Also the type of media. For example Ammonia will will have a colder temperature then Freon at the same pressure. The pressure is the key. At 30PSI Ammoniais 17 degrees F and 134 about 35 degrees F.

I did some farther seaching of the web and I found one site said a EP Moly grease. Extreme Pressure, High Temperature Moly. Such as Wheel Bearing Grease for vehicles with Disc Brakes.

I'm rebuilding the window regulator on my 72. The first question I have is does anyone know what the type of grease was used by the factory on the regulator? The second question is how much play should there be on the two arms of the scissor? I notice there is a wave washer between them, so it has to have some play.

I'm not sure if it on the web site. When I talked to the rep he said I would need this module for use from the remote. Other wise you would have to hold the button on the remote the whole time the window was operating. This allows just one press of the remote to fully open or close the window.

It is A1 ELectric Automotive Accessories. The P/N for the "One Touch Automatice Window Module" is 530T. The The Shaved Door Kit P/N is POP_A2. The Power Window Kit P/N is 3300-0030-0147. The guy I talked to was very helpful and I discussed the options I had for the windows in a S30. None other then the universal kit. www.a1electric.com

I bought the same Spal kit but have not installed it. I also bought a shaved door kit at the same time. It has a interface module so I can operate the windows up or down from my remote and open the doors. I plan on installing the interior switches on the console where my choke and seat belt lights are. I just looked at the receipt and I got them from A1 Electric. I paid $140 for the Window Kit, $150 for the shaved door kit, and $70 for the "One touch automatice Window module". The Door kit came with relays to trigger the window "one touch". I have a S30, Janaka you said you upgraded to FG door panels. ??? What do you mean by FG?

While stripping the dash, heater and wiring out of my 72 S30 I found 2 relays on the right hand side above the kick panel under the dash and 3 relays on the drivers side same location under the dash, above the kick panel. Can anyone tell what these are for? I'm looking at relocating them some where else or combine them with my alarm/remote door circuit board. :confused:

Sand Blasting can if not done carefully warp the metal. If blasting is done it is best to use baking soda or plastic media. The added benefit is clean up before painting. After blasting it will need to be primed within a few hours (mostly depending on where you live) or rust can start forming. A dryer climate vs higher humiditiy area.