midnight-z

can a short drain a battery it doesn't seem to charge more than 11.5 volts the batt. is a 10v right now won't start The looking at datsun trouble shoot for battery charging - alternator voltage regulator the blowing 10a fuse fuel gauge calbourator on my 76' 280z- I came up with- fualty ign.relay voltage regulator missing ground? My theroy is that the alternator got over worked and igniton wires by the fuse box harnesses burnt out I'm not good with electric stuff I don't mess with it I only change light bulbs

I got the car to run and work after the fuselinks problem I decided to change the potential problem chaped worn air/alter belts The car sat for 10 days with out runing Valuecrap battery went bad After arguing with my dad that a battery 1/3 the size of the Z batt. was a bad idea:icon56: I was sent to take my grandma to the store my dad checked the belts and put a Civic batt on I arrived home and my dad starts the car I told him to stop and 30sec later smoke came fromthe passenger foot well and a flash from the fuse blowing the all guages died I told him to wait one more day to get the new batt. I went to my bros for $40 and got a new Valuecrap battery the car & gauges ran smooth i replaced 10 Amp fuel gauge calb fuse the guage needles started working but the all guage lights fried to hell 3 days later the battery seems to get a 1 volt charge after driving& keeps getting lower to 8 volts it seems not to charge properly also fuel gauge calbarator fuse the 4th fuse left side going up^ every fuse I put in keeps blowing now so I tried a bigger amp and the gauge & all needles started moving 10 sec later it blew I think its the voltage regulator I heard its like a switch that flips over and has to be ajusted to allow proper flow of voltage or somthing. here are the facts Now my dad has to use his tax refund to replace the bad parts:twisted: The batt is good but does not get enough charge & is in the 9-11's volt Happend after runing with a battery 1/3 size of the Z battery The 10 Amp fuel gauge calb fuse keeps blowing I ran out of fuses only the speedo & dash map light function also secondary dome light in between sun roof works its wierd head & tail lights& signals work fuse links okay belts tight I say it 50/50 alternator or voltage I will get the alternator checked soon. Does anyone have an idea what it could be or have any experaiance with weird electrical issues I want to get this problem fixed before I install h4 light conversion/blakdragon light harness:(

such a lame watch

K sieres will cost more than a b18c R engine + the requre the special mounts ,I think their might be issuses with clearance like the h22. the b18c is 197-200hp and the Ka24 is 215-220hp

Are you talking about the decal on the hood or the Advan-gold paint on the car? I wanted that gold on my Dc2 4years ago but the paint was $400 a quart +shipping from Japan I found it easier to copy advan gold it cost half as much I order a pint to be made for a project for $80.00

I saw other vesions of these by 4 other manufactures slv/red/blk/wht/gld/plsh Some replicas lack the curveture and filleted edges or even a spoke but additionally the knock offs can often not look as good. I like these better than the 8spoke blk wheels every other ae86,crx and Z has I would get these in 16x7.5 all polish with red nuts The real wheels are often imatated but never duplicated

You should go to up-garage every thing is cheap oem ,mint, new,NOS,used, mostly 80's-90's parts its like Autobacs but everything isn't 5-10$ above MSRP. They might have Nismo real cheap I have gotten rare Honda gems from there A strut bar for $35 I sold it to some JDM nerd for $120 shipped I'm made $480 in one month. Sellin what the japanese consider old used mint junk is consider ultra rare gems here. you should pick up Fairlady book an nismo oil cap, horn button ,shifter angled licsense plate holders H4 lights bulbs decal and JDm badges

I got the Z to run I found that a ground was missing thanks to 240ztt Also I sanded the hell out of the terminals I redid the new fuse links Striped the ends ,crimped and sodered them they are caped with new covers. I think we should have a grounding diagram for the trouble shoot on this site.

Hell yeah thats what I'm talking about How come we don't have info like that here? The battery tested good its from 03/07 I tested the bat/alter on third day I got it it got a green light I thought I shorted it or something. the links i installed seem to be above 100amps bigger than 1.25mm2 I wanted to get the maxi upgrade after i get taxrefund I will clean grounds and inspect voltage stablizer.

I went today and I got this info After looking at the Nismo 350Z for 10min Apeatently there is diffrent guages of wires? here is the fuselink part # and the numbers writent are amprage all 4 are diffrent does anyone on here anything about this? My theroy is that they have special wires or magical one dealer has them for $8.00 each but they need the part number nobody has them they are special order. the ones I put on say fusiblelink wires are the same thickness and say 2.0 sq mm fusible link they are made by some Z store from 260 to 280 Z

The terminals were on tight so I pryed them with a screwdriver. I want to take the battery tomarow to have it checked out by better people than autozone Also does the guage thickness of the links matter? I put the original fuse links on nothing happened that same day with a 12+ charged battery I will study the manual agian if volt regulator and if the batery is okay I wil test the alternator. also I forgot to put the glove box light bulb in its socket so it hanged empty and loose for three days. could that do anything? A simalar thing happend with a guy who replaced one link ended up towing to a Z shop then they put a $5 link for $100 and the car run to this day

I got my 280Z 3 weeks ago and I replaced the problematic fuseible links I replaced them yesterday The car dosen't run it starts to turn over and stops a second later they looked craped out so I put new ones on Now the gauge reads 8 I got a battery charged so it was above 12v I put the old ones on I tryd to start 4x it went back to 8 all the 4 new wires are the same thickness 2.0 sq mm fusible link dielecric grease on the terminals I think it could be the battery or I caused a short:lol: I disconected the negitave bat-cable then took all 4 links off I put the new ones on with the grease and I put on the negitve cable. All the info I found was about maxi fuse conversions and one about a simalar case 3 days before I exchanged the all tail light bulbs with my 97 integras sylvina bulbs. Could it be the volt regulator or battery ?