Zardilla

I think I paid around $150 for the kit (see link below). It is mild steel, welded cleanly to the pan, and the width of the upright area was nearly the same where it attached to bottom of RB20 pan. I will be gone for the next couple of weeks, but when I get back I will try to post up some pics with my pan attached to the block. http://www.sdparts.com/product/MOR21950/RoadRaceUWeldItKickedOutOilPanKit.aspx

I was originally running a std RB20 pan and after spinning a rod bearing last year I wanted to make sure that I had plenty of oil. So I had a local fabricator take my pan, slice off the sump and weld on a Moroso sump kit (see link below). Hopefully it will provide extra longevity for the motor. This new sump has an odd kick out on the exhaust side and it might be too close to the dump pipes. I may have to mod it a bit, but we'll see. Essentially I was trying to duplicate what Rob at RIPS down in New Zealand did with his 240z. Rob posted some pictures on Hybridz six months ago or so. here's the link: http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11108

Raff, The guy here locally in Washington is named Doug at UP Garage. His phone number is 253-565-9823 or fairladymotors@hotmail.com. He has 4 flanges in stock that have both the rb26 and rb20 bolt patterns. He's asking ~$300USD I believe, but he might be negotiable. I don't know if James Thagard is on the boards much anymore but you may give him a shout as well about a flange as he made a run of aluminum pans a few years back. Matt PS - I may be selling my Thagard pan/pick up together for my cost (~$550) but only after I get my motor running with the frankenstein rb20/moroso sump pan combo I currently have. I may post that up for sale in late Aug/early Sept. This pan still needs baffling but it should be fine to use the stock GTR windage trays with which could save some trouble.

Not exactly sure Raff, but I do know another customer at my mechanic is having a RB30 built up for his GTR and had a similar type flange being use for that conversion. I think he got from Australia or New Zealand, maybe RIPS? I will ask him.

Years ago Brad D, and more recently Jamie T, both had steel flanges (using the inner bolt pattern on the RB26 block) cut out for their oil pans. Does anyone have a copy of the computer file used by the water jet machine that I could have? My local mechanic is working on an RB swap and could use it. Joel S. - I saw a post from 2004 where you had a file for a lazer cutting machine. Thanks folks. Matt

I have one on my 72 240z with no fitment problems. Maybe some frame issues?

Terrific - exactly what I needed. Thanks Raff.

No rush - thanks for keeping after this.

Raff, I've been trading emails with Quentin about a set of good condition R34 rods he has. I'm hoping to have these refurbished (polished, shot peened, and sized if necessary) and run those. Current lore on the various GTR boards is that stock rods with this type of prep are good up to 600-650 range with a good tune. However, if you can still post the part number that would be great, especially as I would guess others in the HBZ community would like that info. Thanks Matt PS - I've been drooling over a set of Carillos Super A beams to go with the CP pistons I have but my wallet is starting to cry so I'm looking for other cheaper and hopefully sensible options since I am only going to 500hp on my engine.

Thanks Raff!

If anyone has the Nissan part number for the standard r32/32/34 conrods I would appreciate it if you could post it up. I think there is an "assembly" part number that includes bearings and bolts, but I really only need the rods and caps for my rebuild. Thanks Matt

Canteen green is the same color I'm thinking of as the original color on my Z is the factory green. Gunmetal wheels are what I'm considering.

Alex, I know that is what Stony and Brad D were close to with their original setups so I think that's correct but the stock turbos are close to maxing out from what I understand (can't run over 1bar without destroying the ceramic compressor wheels). The 350-400rwhp figure is just my estimate using the dyno charts the Aussie guys are showing but that is at around 18psi. HKS shows a dyno chart of 575hp at 1.4bar (20psi) but I don't read Japanese and can't tell if this is flywheel or at the rear wheels. I think it may be flywheel since they rate the turbos at 280hp each. With say a 15% drivetrain loss, that suggests with proper tuning these are good for 480rwhp (and with a decent amount of space under the curve). In any event I tend to think the GTSS or 707160-9 turbos are likely to yield a some increase in power( dependably so) but a good tune will also be critical. With luck my tuner can do so. Bear in mind I am shooting for near stock response with a decent boost in performance. Going to 2530's would have provided more upside (albeit with more lag) but in a 2400 lbs car I think 400rwhp will more than meet my needs(street and a couple of HPDE per year). Matt

I showed these turbos to my mechanic (who has worked on a number of GTR's here in the NW) and he believes these are genuine HKS so I have left it at that. Nevertheless, HKS would save customers considerable grief by labeling their turbos consistently. I haven't yet got these on my engine as it is still in the process of being rebuilt. I guess only after my car is running again will I be able to provide some feedback on performance. However, the guys on skylinesaustralia.com seem to be big fans of the GTSS units. There is an RB26 forced induction thread on that board that has lots of dyno results with these turbos. I would estimate that many of the folks are seeing 350-400 rwhp at 18psi. Not too bad for what is the first step up from the stock units.

I have now traded emails with Nengun regarding this. They maintain they have indeed sent me the correct kit (HKS 11004-AN002). The documentation I have suggests this may be correct (part numbers do match). However, I have spoken with HKS USA and they indicated that all of their parts have the firm's logo attached in some fashion (in the casting or on the tag). It's possible that HKS didn't bother to tag these turbos with their name but that would be different from all of their other products. It causes a big problem between customer and vendor because there is no way (for the layman) to determine if these are genuine parts. For all intents and purposes the Garrett equivalents are very very close in terms of specification, however HKS has proprietary compressor wheels and that is what I was after. These HKS wheels may have been loaded into generic Garrett housings but there should be some indication of this. I will let you know of any other info I get from Nengun. BTW - all the other parts I ordered (cams, cam wheels, turbo elbows, injectors, PFC) are genuine and my previous order from Nengun was correct so ultimately everything may be legit. I have attached pictures of the turbo and tag.

Folks, My order for a set of HKS GTSS turbos from Nengun just arrived. Worringly, the turbo housings have no HKS badging at all. The number tag on the units lists part number 707160-9 which is a number for the standard Garrett equivalents. I have an email into Nengun regarding this and they may in fact be genuine HKS units however, does anyone know if HKS sells its turbos without any indication of manufacturer? Thanks for any help you can provide. Matt

Mikelly - lol, I already spoke with Jamie re his engine setup. I am ultimately going to need a bit less horsepower that what his set up will deliever and I want more responsive turbos (thinking GTSS or 2530) but I was definitely interested. Bob, Hmm, I will probably still proceed with the pan and pickup I have but make darn sure the baffling is very good. I will also run the Tomei restrictor and do the Desynz head return. Hopefully this will be enough to keep the engine alive for the occasional track day. Your point about the thinness of the current pan is good. Jamie and I were discussing how the stock AWD pan is really a structural element for the block. I'm not sure if this becomes less important in a rear wheel configuration or not, as there is now no diff sitting under the engine. I too am hoping to get my car back on the road by August. I am planning my build right now, but have already gone ahead and bought a new R33 crank ($570 from nismoparts - screaming deal) and the N1 oil/water pumps. I'm still vacilating on whether to go fully forged internals or not and which turbo set up. Poncams for sure. At some point the wife will sit up and recognize the kids college fund is being drained.... Matt

Q - I will be following steps 2 & 3 for sure when I pull the engine apart. I also have a larger capacity pan which should help some. I will certainly watching the thread on the steps you are taking on your motor. All the best. Matt

Joel, I was running the RB20 (200zr) pan with a modified std pickup. However I have a Thagard pan and the oil pick up that Bob H's machinist made. Those will now go on the engine. I was using the stock 240Z oil pressure gauge - for the last four months driving around the gauge seemed to be behaving fine though the readings were in the 30-45psi range (maybe a shade low). I've read through the oil head mod thread on Freshalloy and have an inquiry into Desynz in OZ on getting this piece. Do I need both a restrictor and this return line as well? I was thinking of running the N1 pump but Tyndago suggested there may be an issue with these pumps. I just would rather not shell out the cash for a Tomei or JUN pump. Hopefully no crank damage! Sorry no new pics, but the car looks the same as the ones I put in the gallery four years ago. I have pretty new gauges (yet to be installed) and new seats. Once I get the engine rebuilt I will post new pics. Thanks Matt

Firstly a big thanks to all the members who have answered questions over the years as I have been rebuilding my car. The chance to get the car on a road course was terrific. So the bad news.... After three lapping sessions (or about 35-40 laps) at Pacific Raceways in Kent, WA the engine decided it had enough for one day. I will say the Rb26 is a great engine, spun up very nicely and produced good power in the upper rpms exiting the turns. As it stood, I was running about 0.8 bar boost, making around 270rwhp. Not excessive, but enough to get me down the straights pretty quick (or at least what seemed quick to a newbie). From the sound, which I interpret as rod knock, it appears at least one of the bearings let loose. I had lowish but steady oil pressure all day, however I understand under sustained high revs the oil tends to sit in the head. This may have contributed to the demise of the engine, but it was a stock used R32 motor that we simply plopped into my 240z and had questionable compression in the #6 cylinder. However it didn't last as long I'd hoped - oh well, time to freshen it up properly. Probable plans: Pistons (CP or JE) Rods (stay with stock if undamaged, if not then Carillo?) ARP rod bolts Steel head gasket N1 oil pump crank collar bigger oil pan (already had, just didnt put on yet) oil restrictor in block! Definitely a fun day and the suspension/brakes held up well. Once the engine is fixed I'll be out again. Matt

Three quarts is it then! I must say the fingers as dipstick method is more my speed though Thanks guys.

Does anyone know this? I don't have my FSM with me (and its for the R32 GTR anyway) and would like to pick up some Redline MT90 tonight after work. Thanks Matt

I called Moser yesterday for custom shafts for my r200 and they told me they couldn't do it. The individual I spoke with mentioned that they don't have sufficiently small diameter axle stock to create these for our cars. Seemed strange as I think Ross at MM uses Moser for his R230 kit. If you hear that Moser will create shafts for us please let me know. Thanks.