Phillip

ok got a photo this time lol

dang how do I add a photo to the post on a Macbook? I tried copy/paste and dragging it, as well as using attach function when I originally made the post lol

lol dang I attached a photo guess it didn't come up. I got NgoZ's PM and said I would purchase Its a 2 row ill see if I can upload a pic on this post. If the sale falls through I'll PM you my cell phone zentech.

Hello, I was just about to install my completely rebuilt L28 finally and my bro tipped over my engine while I was out getting chain to hoist it. well the pulley is shot lol this is what it looks like. I would greatly appreciate being able to purchase one from you! thank you! Phillip Riggins

Thank you all for the replys I think I'm just going to run a 2nd filter before my pump when I drained my gas a couple years ago there wasn't much sediment either so I think a 2nd filter will be enough insurance hehe that and I'm in a rush! Haha my Datsun is a 78

I see, I saw a thread somewhere here of a small clear fuel filter that a lot of people were using post fuel pump would you happen to have the link to where I could purchase one?

Ok cool well I filled up the bucket 3 times and each time there was about that much dirt stuff, that still ok?

Hello, I recently drained the gas from my 1978 280z into a white 5 gallon bucket (had to drain it a few different times haha) and encountered sediment at the bottom of the bucket each time made sure none of it got into my gas can. Here's a picture of it, my question is should I be worried or have the tank cleaned if so how does that work? thanks! sorry for the huge picture didnt realize 'actual size' on my iphone was that big lol

Hello, I am in need of a stock 75-83 z/zx Non-turbo Fuel pump, it doesn't matter if it works or not. I recently purchased a stock rebuilt fuel pump and apparently the fuel pump on my car isn't stock So please PM me I need it for a core charge looking to spend like $10-20 + shipping to San Jose, CA 95127

Hi, I am in need of an exhaust manifold for a 1978 280z, with round ports. I seemed to have misplaced mine when I put my headers on last, although I think I gave it to the metal recyclers >_< needs to have threads for EGR tube. Shipping quote to 95127 PM me please if you are willing to sell.

Ok so when I change the 4 prong outlet to a 3 prong outlet, what do I do with the extra wire that will be left over from the 4 prong? Just end cap it? I believe the two outlets are completely separate, because we used to have 2 electric dryers that could be ran at the same time, but recently we hooked up our new gas dryer, and took out one of the electric ones thus the spare lol. I'll double check with my dad though.

I Have a Harbor Freight 230V 120A MIG/Flux Welder, with no plug for it (Manual says it draws 21amp max). It has 3 wires coming out of the power cord for a 3 prong plug. I have a spare dryer outlet in my garage, although it is the 'new' 4 prong connection. I was wondering what plug I need to buy for the Welder, and if there is anyway I can plug it into my Dryer outlet, to avoid having to run another outlet. Since I will be needed an extension cord of course, this is prob a stupid question, but is there a extension cord that goes from a 4prong to a 3 prong? Any help will be much appreciated, thanks

Well first off, my car is a 1978 280z with stock engine... and wiring :/ Has anyone ever rebuilt their stock fuel injection harness? because im having a PITA time getting my car to run smoothly, but its hard to diagnose something when almost every wire going to anything doesn't have correct voltage going through it, and im thinking it's just my wiring that's causing the car to run bad. I went through my underhood relays other day and measured voltage going through each wire, and out of all of them there was maybe 3 wires that had around 12V volts rest were around 10V. If you have rebuilt your harness, did you color code it, or? Also where can you buy those little terminals for inside the stock connectors (underdash)? Thanks!

If my muffler made it sound like that I would definately keep it, but it goes from a really nice sound at idle to sounding like the civic in that video clip I put up :/ I got no clue why my exhaust is sounding like this, cuz when I had the stock manifold with 2inch piping up to the cat, sounded relatively like yours, (just not as great a note as yours did) now with headers and only about 2 inches of 2inch piping (so it can get into the cat) its horrible sound 2300rpm+ around 4800rpm I can't hear the exhaust anymore, only the engine and it seems to sound better though lol I like the underwater burble sound more than the import sound so... im prob gonna buy one tomorrow morning and get it on. before anyone at school hears the car lol

so that civic sound is caused by the generic 'turbo' muffler right? if so im gonna buy a new muffler tomorrow from autozone, they have 2.5" Flowmaster Super 44's in stock

Friend tells me my car might be idling rough because it sounds like it has a cam in it. Although I know I have alot of carbon buildup on my valves. because everytime I drive car real hard grey smoke comes out of the tailpipe. On the stock cam for the L28E, does it say JAPAN near I think it was approx. 6th or 5th cylinder, valves? just to see if I have stock cam lol. idk if the idle has to do too much because the engine smoothes out around 2500 Looked at MSA and the muffler is a 'walker turbo' muffler? idk im confused I just wanna get rid of the civic sound asap lol

Ok it idles with muscle but once i step on it sounds like this civic when he is revving it up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNBlwnecdcs Really pissing me off feel embarrassed to drive the car lol it starts sounding like the civic around 2300+ so as of right now im shifting before that lol. It's just the muffler right?

haha it would, but i'd be deaf the next day my car idles like its a muscle car, but once you step on the gas it screams import which sucks :/

Exhaust is sounding a bit ricey when accelerating. My previous exhaust setup was Stock manifold with 2inch piping to a cat, then 2.5" piping, with that I think dynomax muffler that comes with MSA's exhaust kits. It sounded ok, wasn't really loud, I liked it but I also wanted it a bit louder and a little different sound. I cleaned up my rusted MSA 3-2-1 Header, pop those back on, and changed the piping up to the Cat to 2.5" (although it still drops down to 2inch right before the Cat) then 2.5" with the dynomax muffler that comes with MSA's exhaust kits. When I got everything welded up I listened to the exhaust at idle was thought ok nice, its a bit louder kinda still has the same tone oh well. Dropped my friend off at his house revved up the car a bit, then he noted that it was sounding a bit ricey. So I went around to the back of the car while he revved it for me, and yep it crossed that fine line, between a raspy muscle car sound, and the raspy civic sound. We did however advance my timing a little bit before we listened to the exhaust, cuz the damn car won't idle smoothly. Could having the timing a little too far advanced affect the sound? I know that the headers with the 2.5" piping relieved a lot of backpressure so that changes the sound. I guess my question is, is it my timing that could have changed the sound, or I need to go to a different muffler? and would a Flowmaster Super 44 muffler solve my problem? cuz i've been needing an excuse to buy one lol (im not the most knowledgeable about exhaust systems so yeah im thinking the changing the timing would have nothing to do with it, but its the only thing I did to the engine after I got the exhaust welded up, but before I noticed the sound of the car sooo idk) I can try and make an exhaust clip if needed idk how great the sound quality is on my camera though.

I replaced the fuel filter when I got the car, (although it has sat alot since then might have gummed up) and I have drained my gas tank once and it was all clear no flakes. I replaced the fuel filter in early - mid months of '08, since then its done tops 600miles lol should probably replace the filter ya?

Well I have since replaced my Thermotime Switch, Water Temperature Sensor and Sender. Not getting the full 12Volts through the wiring on the Temp. Sensor only getting 10volts, Thermotime Switch has 0volts going to it. and well the sender has always worked haha. Long and the short of it that did pretty much nothing except tell me that alllllll my wires are corroded. Just started my engines class at my school, and been working on my car in there this whole week, did a compression test on tuesday, when I pulled plugs all of them were white, usually the plugs had some white/black around them, but now they are just white, which indicates running lean. Couple weeks ago I replaced my TPS because it tested bad, and when I replaced it, car still backfired a little bit, but I had a ton more power especially 3k-5k rpm. Which stumbled me because the car smells like its running rich but in the plugs, the replacing of the TPS giving more power all point to running lean. Compression results were Cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 5 150psi; Cylinder 4 140psi; Cylinder 6 170. Going to be adjusting my Valves tomorrow, and doing timing. Then another compression test to see if it helps level them all out. I was told to put some Fuel Injector cleaner in my car (which I had done maybe a year ago) and the guy told me to cruise at a higher RPM to clean out all the crap from my valves and everything and it should clean up the engine real nice and it'll stop running rough. Well Last night going to and from work, at times on the highway I would cruise in 4th instead of 5th, RPMs were about 3500, and I did the same on the way to school. and probably about a mile or 2 away from school the car actually stop backfiring when gently accelerating. There was still of course an absense of power feels kinda like the engine is just revving and no power, but once I go to where Full throttle enrichment hits theres a ton of power, let off a little its gone. So im completely positive that the injectors are clogged real bad as enix187 mentioned before and im going to continue to use the fuel injector cleaner for awhile. For the 'lack of power' on regular enrichment driving what can be the issue (I haven't tested the fuel pressure yet, yes I know it's stupid that I haven't done it yet Im gonna see if I can do it tomorrow in my engines class.) I have tested the Air Regulator bad, and pin 34 on both my ECU, and the big plug look burnt, in fact on the ECU it looks like theres a solder(sp)(SAW-DER) at the bottom of the spade terminal. I am pretty sure this is what is making it run lean. and How would I go about fixing (if even needed) the terminals? I only did a continuity test, through my automotive electrical class I was taught mainly voltage drop, cuz apparently even if theres 1 strand of wire going the sensor will still read continuity? idk but it tested bad so it's gotta be bad lol For the burnt terminals should I be looking at too much voltage or ? I can take pictures if needed. Thanks!

I haven't solved the problem yet lol, but I did however accidentally leave my thermotime switch and temp sensor unplugged when I went to get gas, no backfire at all. realized that they weren't plugged in at the gas station and plugged them back in, backfired like crazy afterwards. Needless to say I am pretty sure it's them. I bought new Thermo, Temp Sensor, and Temp Sender, as well as a new thermostat housing. (as well as new connectors) I'll know sometime next week when I get everything back into the car

Hey Ness, did you buy those ground controls from Silver Mine Motors? If so is the $400 on the site for all 4 corners?

awesome build man, where in the bay area do you live? im in san jose