Phillip

bump. Would this be a bad headlight switch?

that looks completely awesome, great job on the paint.

Ok well my problem is getting my dash lights/running lights to stay on... They turn on sometimes it takes a few trys but then they flicker off. I've gotten them to stay on for about a full minute or two before, but thats it. Usually they only stay on for a few seconds Headlights work fine, and switch between high/low beams good. Brake lights work as well. When my Guage lights are on they seem to be really really dim, yes I made sure I had the illumination switch all the way on, they are so dim that I honestly can't make out what im looking at, is this normal? All the bulbs in dash are brand new. My father was telling me that the lights flickering off could be the headlight switch? what else could it be? Another thing on the side is my backup lights don't work. Maybe just a bad switch? I have a '78 280z, and I put a 5 Speed from a 79ZX in my backup light should still work yea? Thanks

Hey, so I was just about to start putting my new interior together, but I have no bolts for the center console at all, I tried to find out the threading at OSH but it the only bolt they had wouldn't thread in all the way. Does anyone know what the thread size for the center console bolts? I think there are like 6 bolts all together that hold it down or so. Any info on the thread size would be awesome. Thanks! It's a 1978 280z

there is a brand new cat (well was put on in march or so) I didn't do anything to help pass, I was actually hoping for it to fail, so I could do some CAP thing that I get 500bucks for emission related problems

ok, I will look for some more leaks I know of a small exhaust leak, coming off the EGR Tube, just need to put some sealer on it, Also my dad has been bugging me since I got my exhaust done, to get it smogged, and if it failed I could go on the CAP thing, (500bucks for emission-related issues) So I took it today, and the thing passed smog, so idk people have been telling me it's running really rich, but if that were true, it prob wouldn't have passed right? Cygnusx1, it doesn't backfire when decel, only when softly accelerating, and the car like pulls back then jumps forward, If anyone in San Jose can stop by and check out my Z that'd be awesome, the sensors/switches sounded like a real good reason for it being rich, but it passing smog has stumped me lol

Ok, so the 3 sensors, are the Water Temp Sender, Water Temp Sensor, and Thermo Time Switch, and z-store says thermo time switch controls the Cold Start Valve which means its prob tied in with the CPU, i'm guessing if the Thermo is messed up the cold start valve would be on all the time causing it to become really rich? I couldn't find anything on the sensors in the FSM went through everything and it only said how to remove the thermostat housing. Anyone know which one is which?

Ok thanks I'll check that out as well, is this the coolant/water temp sensor, you were talking about? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCC13/16-7110KI

Ok so I replaced all the bullet connections under the fuel rail with butt connections (had a box of them) drove the car, and it takes a lot longer for it to start backfiring, and it doesn't do it nearly as much, it took prob 10mins to start backfiring, instead of like 2-3mins, about to check the coolant temp sensor output, thanks sooo much lol,

Ok, thanks I'll check it out tomorrow morning.

I've been working on my 280z for coming up on 2yrs, and ever since I got it running, (last december) it has been backfiring, have yet to figure it out, my dad was the only one to drive the car when the car was first bought, and he doesn't remember if it did....of course. I was told when I was getting my exhaust done that my car was running really rich, then after that, I was told by my friend's dad who is a mechanic, so I bought it into a shop to get it diagnosed and adjusted, and they found it to be the air fuel mixture as well, so he tried to adjust the air flow meter, but when he leaned it out it would just backfire (I had the plug off of the MAF Sensor, but since I have spliced in a new one) Now according to my FSM, and the last shop the mixture is adjustable, the mechanic said it was set to full enrichment, So I called a local Z Specialist, and he said that the the air fuel mixture isn't adjustable, and I would have to buy a new one, and that it was probably more than just the air fuel mixture. So are they adjustable or not? and where is it adjusted? lol now the problem is, when the car is cold no matter how to drive it it doesn't backfire, a little hesitation but not a lot, although when the gauge starts to register temperature, the car will backfire, but only when not driving hard, if I floor it, there is tons of acceleration, and no backfires at all, although if I am driving like im stuck behind a grandma, it backfires like crazy. The only mods are a K&N Air Filter, and a 2.5" cat-back exhaust Any Thoughts? It doesn't backfire in neutral, it does hesitate though when cold in neutral

So on my 1978 280z I was trying to resolder the wires into the connector for the MAF Sensor, and well the connector chipped away (not too bad probably still could have worked) then it was left right in front of the cowl panel and the hood crushed it. I need to know if there is anywhere I can buy the connector it's the ones that are on the EFI Harness, believe the same ones that plug into the fuel injectors, Or if the connector from a 280zx would fit? If pictures are needed I can get some, I was unable to find a thread to directly answer my question if this has been posted before, sry I was unable to find it.

Alrighty I'm buying one from menzzer37, thanks!

Hello, I am in need of buying an exhaust manifold for a 1978 280z, I believe it's an N47. Thanks!

Thanks, i'll be buying the parts car tomorrow if we can get it to turn over and engine runs good. it's been sitting for 4 years i think, my starter from my 280z should work with the engine right?

Hey I couldn't find anything on swapping a 280zx NA Engine into a 280z, (probably because theres so much on the Turbo ones haha). My 280z's engine is knocking, so im trying to buy a 280zx for 350 bucks that the guy says has a good engine, Is my EFI wiring harness and computer from my 280z going to work with the 280zx NA? or am I going to need to use everything from the 280zx ? Thanks a bunch my 280z is a 1978 not sure what year the 280zx is though it is an NA though.

Thanks, i'll look into it.

Well, now I can hear the sound pretty good, even with injector 5 and 6 unplugged, so its getting worse. I decided im going to rebuild the engine, was going to do it over the summer but now i have to lol. zstore/MSA quoted me 700-900bucks to buy everything to make a complete kit, does anyone know of a place that I could get cheaper?

well on the headers the nuts that are supposed to be touch both the intake manifold and the header, are a little messed up because, the header flange is twice as thick as the one on the exhaust manifold, thus the intake and header to not meet correctly, and the half circle where part of the nut is supposed to touch is too wide and my nut goes inside it, did you have to use washers? according to MSA you don't need washers if I read correctly, when I was installing the header I kept a garbage bag over the intake and exhaust ports so slim to no chance that something got into 5th or 6th cylinder

Ok, so I have decided I am going to swap to a 280zx turbo engine so I can drive the car, while im rebuilding the stock motor. Does anyone know if 3-2 Headers from MSA (round exhaust ports) fit over the square exhaust ports of a 280zx turbo engine? thanks much!

I can hear the knock while acceleterating, it starts up normal but then immediately goes to knocking, when cylinder #6 is unplugged I can still faintly hear it, so this would be a rod knock? If so then im gonna rebuild the engine :/

I didn't have anyone to do compression test with, If theres a good chance its the injector ill buy one rq and swap it, i pulled the plug from the 6th injector, and car sounded fine besides for the engine being way to loud imo, ill see if I can get a friend to help me with compression test. it seriously sounds like a rod knocking, but i don't get why it stops when injector plug is pulled, because piston is still going up and down right?

on youtube the video "944 turbo lifter noise or rod knock" is the exact sound i'm getting here's link

Ok so I just unplugged cylinder #6's fuel injector, and the knocking sound stopped, but then of course rpm were messed up at higher rpm. I plugged the injector back in and the knocking sound came back, any thoughts?

for one the engine itself is extremely loud atm can't hear exhaust over it, and the knock is in sync with the ignition and even louder than the engine, sounds like its from 1cylinder either #5 or #6, it doesn't sound like a pipe hitting anything because I don't think that would hit as often as the sound happens. There is a brand new gasket on it, although I did have some problems with the nuts that torque to like 12lbs, the flange on the header is really thick but on the intake manifold its thin, are the nuts supposed to be touching both? or just the header? I do have some idling problems, but thats because I just got car running and im gonna adjust ignition timing today, would that be a problem? does that help ? thanks for replying!