jeromio

Odd. I guess what I am using is not considered Recent Topics? I use the topics since last visit and I have had no interruptions.

No plans to change the wiper mechanics - just want to add interval functionality (and use that zippy interval controller on the maxima stalk).

That helps. The orange wires on mine have little black hash marks all along them - kinda tiger-y looking. Anyway, I did a bunch of stuff Saturday and I discovered that I did need one of those orange wires so that the lows stayed on when the brights were switched on. So I have headlights all working and started on the blinkers (and then it was dinnertime so I had to quit). I am using massive amounts of relays. I have a lowbeam relay, a high beam relay, a 2pole with one end going to parking lights and the other for instruments and then the set of 3pdts for the blinkers/brake lights. I also have all the lights except for brakes running of accessory/ignition on. No more dead batteries for stupid-ass me.... Just to make things extra painful for myself, I also grabbed the intermittent wiper box from the donor maxima. There's like 30 wires coming out of it. I'll post if/when I get that figured out.

Three little words: Ell Ess One The LS1 is light, compact, very powerful and becoming more and more plentiful. I've not heard of anyone doing any kind of a swap into an SX, so, You'll be breaking new ground no matter what motor you choose.

Can't help you on a "good reference" - how about an excellent reference instead: http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html (Terry, blueovalZ's site)

I agree with the comment about the ujoint in the half-shaft. If one (or more) of the bearing cups goes dry, it's usually a logorythmic degradation from there. The post(s) will get ground down, cause a little bit of vibration, that makes the wear even worse, etc. It'll cause noticeable noise/vibration at a certain speed. Then that speed range widens out (say, goes from 65-70 to 50-75, etc) until the unit completely fails. Waaaaay long ago my passenger side shaft had a joint go gradually bad like that until it was just crazy bad. Had one post of the joint ground down to a little nub that rattled around inside a highly messed up bearing cup (with no bearings left of course). I switched to CV joints rather than mess with rebuilding those shafts.

Right, direct injection ala recent diesel designs. Injector in the head. Supposed to be more efficient, cleaner combustion. Very cutting edge. I think BMW uses this in their latest gas engines. Check it: Deep skirt/structural pan is much like the LS1 (which I have in my car). Or, if you've ever seen pictures of an old Ford Side oiler (427, 390, 352, etc) - those were deep skirt blocks too. Makes the block more of a Y than a V. Increases rigidity and strength for the mains - less flex. Overkill with an iron block, but key for aluminum. I think the Nissan VQ has a deep skirt too. As to pan expense, I broke mine (cuz I'm an idiot) and had to get another one - cost me $25 + shipping. Yes, of course that was used, but my point is that as long as it's a high volume, production motor, parts become easier to find and cheaper. [/img]

I matched up all of the turn signal wires, except for the 2 orange striped ones. What are those for? I have 3 pairs that go to Lowbeam, Highbeam, Park and then 3 green wires that are blinkers. Cruise control has its wires separate. What are those orange tiger wires for?

Unless you know something I don't know (which is not unlikely), I think you mean 280ZX turbo (or 280ZX 2+2) CV halfshafts. You should be able to pick up a set either from a local yard, your parts counter, or a place like ZBarn.com. The Z31 units are too long and I don't think there's any bolt on solution for adapting them to the S30 stub axles. I think Stony was doing something with 300ZX suspension/driveline bits. Perhaps he will chime in with some info...

Opposite. 240Z stubs have the same spline count and are compatible with the 280ZXturbo companion flanges. The adapter is required when using CVs with 280 stubs which have more splines. ZX stubs cannot be used in 240 or 280 carriers.

I wish I could buy this, err, umm, for, my son. Yeah. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2404805395

Brief write-up on my site (link below). I have 150 front 175 rear on my car. A friend who drove it described it well - like a skateboard. Stiff. Very. I cannot even fathom 250lb/in springs.

I dunno - I would not go lightly into such a project. Are you sure you need to pull the tank? On mine, the filler neck did come off. But it was a battle. It did not however, come off the filler (it came off the tank). But the special, curved bolt thingies used to tighten the straps - both of those had their nuts siezed onto them. One eventually broke, the nut on the other stripped and I had to cut it. In my case, the tank was not going back on, so, no worries. But it woulda been a pain to either find new bolts or make them.

If you recall from a previous post, I had some elec. trouble - starter would only click. I cleaned up the grounds and disconnected the alt and the problem was solved. I don't want to reconnect the alt if it's the source of my problem. So, none of the local parts stores will test my alt - they say it's too new and they don't have an adapter for the test bench. (which is not true since I saw one in the drawer at autozone, but the guy said "it only had 3 of the 4 wires in it - I'm thinkin maybe that's all you need to test. Anyway...) I got out the multimeter. Have no idea what I'm doing or what to look for. BUT, there is some continuity between the case (the body of the alternator) and the positive pole that runs to the battery pos post. That seems bad. Yes? (BTW, this is a 99 Camaro V8 alternator).

I had Speartech reprogram my PCM to remove VATS, EGR, etc. I have a stock Camaro engine harness. Without LS1 Edit, you need to rig up something for VATS. You need the resistor and reader (tumbler and key),wired to the BodyControlModule. which needs some signals - 12v+ and ground to various of its pins. YOu end up with I think the Purple wire going back to the PCM. Or else something to simulate that signal back to the PCM. Someone has plans for resistors and such. I don't have the clutch wire going anywhere and my motor runs fine. I don't think the PCM cares about those brake wires. Unless traction control is turned on, in which case that could give you trouble. I left most everything in the harness. I know Cyrus pulled out many pounds of wire, but I didn't want the hassle. I still have the freakin A4 harness and such built into mine, even though I have a T56. You do have a Helms manual, right? The reprogrammation route is really sooooo much simpler. Eliminates extraneous SES codes from missing rear O2s and EGR. Lowers temps ( according to Jonh@Speartech, stock temp for fans to turn on is 234F).

5.3 = GenIII = LS1 Iron, smaller, heavier < Aluminum, more HP IOW, why bother with the 5.3? Same hassle as LS1, but less bang per dollar.

What exactly are you tryna do? Your frame rails are rusted out? Or your floor supports - or both? You need to make sure that whatever you end up with is straight. So if you're gonna cut out the frame rails forward of the firewall, then you need to somehow lock the rest of the car in place with a wooden jig or something FIRST. I don't know of anyone who rents plasma cutters. But I'm not sure that it would be worthwhile anyway. You have to clean the metal for it to work effectively. And it doesn't cut rust stuff very well. And the consumables are pricey. Plus, the Datsun metal is so thin anyway - I'd just use a sawzall. In the time you'd waste grinding off the undercoating and paint you'd already be done with the saw.

Yeah - personally I don't like the look of those VB flares. The Porsche ones on the car Thomas built look very nice. As to using genuine Porsche metal. Umm, err, $$$$ ?

Check it: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911/Med_911/por_911M_chasis_pg1.htm Not so cheap, but made of steel. This place: http://www.gt-racing.com/catalog/GTRpg1-8.pdf has some fiberglass flares and airdams, meant for a 911 - might be adaptable though. Again, not cheap.

None of the local yards around me would sell me any kind of wiring connectors. Shifting into reverse is a PITA. Of course, I have yet to shift with the engine running yet (just one or two times, "testing" the shifter out - there may or may not have been self-made vroom-vroom engine noises involved ). I think John @ http://speartech.com can sell you a data connector. I ordered ATAP (from Pace, haven't rec'd yet), so I should get one too. But, I'm far too cheap (and poor), so I'm gonna see if I can just patch the 3 wires that are needed. If you can get a junkyard to sell you one, that'd be a good way to go. Just any old 96+ GM car should do. As for guages, my fuel guage was sorta broken anyway. And I had no desire to drill holes in my LS1 for Oil,water. And again with the cheap/poor action - no buying new, elec. ones. So, I'm goin' junkyard/A-team/duck-tape/Thundar-the-barbarian style. Hopefully it'll work out.... I predict that someone, at some point (but not MikeKnell/JTR) will eventually sell a piggy-back crossmember LS1 swap kit. Maybe someone like this guy will do it.

Right. If you could adapt the UJointed CV shaft from my truck to a Z car, I'm sure that'd be plenty strong. Or shafts from a Vette - them gots ujoints too. But either of those are pretty difficult to adapt. Much easier to go with ZXt CV shafts. I had bad info above: the sliding shaft should not be called a CV shaft. I guess that's some BS I picked up from 4X4 discussion (or at least that's my excuse ). Digging around, I found an article here that goes into some engineering. CV joints are dubbed thusly because Cardan type Ujoints do not rotate with constant velocity when the joint is angled: If there are 2 joints in perfect phase (parallel), then most all of this differential in velocity is eliminated (although I'm not sure that's true in the Z Car rear susp.). This article only briefly mentions CV joints. There are 2 types: tripot and Rzeppa. I've never taken apart my ZXt shafts. Rzeppa is the balls and cage style. These are discussed as being 5 times stronger than the tripot kind, which do not, according to this article, have the strength capabilities of Ujoints. I'm not sure about the inner, diff. side joint on the ZXt shafts - I suspect that's a ball/cage style. I've never taken mine apart. That outer joint sure looks like a tripot (tripod, tripode?) type though. At any rate, I am very confident that the minor cost difference (about $75) that I coughed up to switch to CV shafts vs. new Ujoints was well worth it. Now, imagine how much actual homework/studying I could've accomplished had I not been procrastinating, looking all this up?

The stock ujointed half-shafts do incorporate a kind of CV joint. The shafts change length - there's an inner and an outer portion that slide back and forth while maintaining "Constant Velocity". For instance, the shaft that connects the the trans output to the transfer case input on my truck is referred to as a CV shaft. It looks just like a larger version of the standard Z half-shaft. But it's ancient technology and inherently weaker than an equivalent solid shaft. With the CV jointed shafts - the modern ones that are sourced in this case from a ZXturbo - the change in length is taken care of by the ball bearing tripode joint. In this design, the moveable part, the CV joint, is the weak point, not the shaft. As Stony mentions, these CVs are typically made from machined, hardened materials. It may boil down to an apples to oranges comparo since the materials and tolerances employed in the old design likely do not measure up. Then again, most all cars now employ solid shafts with CV joints and none use the old style shafts. As Cyrus proved, the shafts of the UJointed halfshafts are certainly breakable. I'm guessing that with modern CV jointed shafts, the CV will break before the shaft. Or possibly the stub axle - if only (IMO) because that part is going to be older and has likely seen millions of heat cycles over it's 30 years of use. I've seen broken CV joints, broken UJoints, pictures of broken stub axles and pictures of broken UJointed shafts. But I've never seen a broken CV jointed shaft. So, they don't exist in my world

I'm confused on what you're talking about here: Are you using a camaro sending unit? If so, why are any mods required? Perhaps what you mean is that you're making the Datsun stuff work with the LS1 PCM?? Which method did you go with - piggyback crossmember? A4 or T56?

Here's a mod for the topic preview: http://www.phpbb.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=18751&highlight=topic+preview . It shows up as a mouse hover which is nice because it doesn't cause the listing to get too long. Of course, Dan would have to install this for it to work. Ranking number - I think some users must've gotten deleted because I jumped from 126 to 110. But, yeah, it's no longer displayed next to every post. It's only indicative of when you joined though - is that really all that important? You can see it in the "Members" listing. There is an icon next to each forum section letting you know if there are new posts there. However, at least in the theme I am using, it is a very subtle color difference between the 2 icons. Very subtle. It would be key to expand the range of available themes.

You can always just do a search previous "1 Day"....