jeromio

Well, mine is meant to be removable - in theory. In practice, it is a giant pain to remove or install. The arms bolt to the TC rod mounts, but the brackets also rest on that lip, which I thought was a nice bonus. Except that it makes for a very awkward exercise since the arms have to come down from above, you can't just slip the whole unit up into place. Were I to do it over again, I would have used a piece of bar bolted (maybe 4 longitudinal bolts) to the rear of the stock cross and the arms welded to that - IOWs, a 2 piece system. I guess one coulr argue this one is stronger, but it would be hugely easier to deal with. Then again, I dunno exactly why I would ever need to remove the crossmember... Anyway, no mods to the TC rod buckets. I did completely redo the pass. side long ago due to rust. So the entire frame rail is all new 14ga on that side from the TC rod mount on back. On the driver's, I tore out the old frame rail/floor support and put in a full section of folded 14ga (just a "U", no top to it). Both sides connect to the rear subframe, but the driver's side has brake and fuel lines inside it. At any rate, my feeling (not based on any tech, knowledge or talent) is that the whole affair is much stronger than stock due to the TC rods now having diagonal bracing to the crossmember. I don't think any other enforcement is necessary.

Firstly, if you searched for an obviously drivetrain related subject in this, the Chevy board, then clearly you would not find any hits. How about after you look thru the 10 posts about this subject in the correct board (Drivetrain), then you post whatever questions still remain in that board. You should also read this: http://hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24173 (BTW, Phantom Grip is not a Nissan LSD - it's sort of a hack with 2 plates pushing against the spyder gears. No clutches)

Unfortunately I never measured the completed struts or the cartridges for that matter http://240z.jeromio.com/frontsusp2.html http://240z.jeromio.com/rear2.html

Hey! That looks familiar. Great minds think alike. Hopefully you have a great mind Here's mine: Is yours all completely welded in, or do your strutrod mounts now unbolt? I like that battery tray.

Shroud in the front seems like a bad idea. My fan actually hardly ever turns on. Kinda find it hard to believe that your air intake is obstructed by the Taurus shroud? Is your motor mounted Scarab style? I have lots of realestate between radiator and motor in my car.

I agree, if you're gonna open up the tank, then just make the sump inside the tank. The way the camaro tank works is the pump lives inside a big coffee can sized plastic tank. There's a syphone at the bottom (with a sort of filter bag) that lets fuel in (and out too I suppose). The pump draws fuel from the inside the coffee can which pretty much stays full of fuel. I've removed mine when the tank was 1/4 full and that coffee can, which reaches almost all the way up to the top of the tank, is completely full. I think something like that would be the simplest and easiest. No need to even open up the whole tank. Just make a 4 or so inch hole in the top of the tank, buy or make an appropriately sized can that will fit in the access hole. Put a hole in the can (maybe block it off with some mesh), mount the pump in the can, mount the can to the access hole cover.

Hrm. Well, I ASSume that the driveshaft shop balanced the driveshaft when it was shortened (since that's part of what I paid for). There's only one shop in the area though, so, no 2nd opinions are possible. You know, now that I think about it, I don't actually recall whether there even are any weights on the DS. I guess it couldn't hurt to carry the shaft back to the shop and have him re-balance it. The vibration seems to be there at 85mph+ during accel/coast/deccel. It's not a huge vibration, just an annoying, high frequency sort of buzzing vibration. It doesn't seem to get worse as speed goes up. All very unscientific impressions. Diff is an open 4.11. This problem did not exist pre-swap. I did remove the driver's side half shaft during the swap. I have ZXt CVs and flanges with the 240 stubs. Pinion and adapter were well seated and locktighted. I'll check these when I try that 180degree dealio. Thanks for the tips.

I drove alla way to Myrtle beach from Durham today - about 3 1/2 hours. (And yes of course it had a valid inspection sticker and no I would never inadvertantly forget to have put the current registration in the car (no glove box???) nor would I have forgotten to have put the stickers on the plates either. I certainly wouldn't have tags that say 11/01 on them either.) SO, I dunno what I was thinking with the worry over 4.11 gears. 55mph is almost possible in 6th, but not very practical. 80mph in 6th is just about right. The motor seems to be just a sconch above idle (if I wasn't such poor white trash I'd have a tach in the car instead of a gaping hole). I used up about half a tank of gas on the 220 mile drive. I'm guessing around 20mpg (18gal Camaro tank). The noise isn't too bad. No, that's not true. My ears rang for a good half hour after arrival. Oh yeah, puddle + 70MPH + light little Zcar = TERROR! Not recommended.

Yeah, I read Pete's drivetrain section about a thousand times. Not sure exactly where I went wrong. I may have just goofed in a measurement when fabbing or mounting my tranny mount or something. That other link is a very good one. Don't think I'll be buying any of them fancy tools though. When I checked, I used the vertical planes of the trans output shaft and the diff pinion flange. I used an angle finder tool from HomeDepot. Tried to make the two surfaces parallel to each other, which I believe is correct. I think I just have a bad measurement someplace and I need to go back and re-measure and make adjustments. I guess it's just the fact that I did spend so much time on this that makes me question whether it really is the driveline causing the vibration - even though it is glaringly obvious

Can someone confirm my seat of the pants impressions? I think I may have messed up on the driveline alignment. I spent many hours trying to get it right, but at speeds above 85mph or so, there is a vibration that I feel, coincidentally, in the seat of my pants. It's high frequency and gets worse as the speed goes up from there. I really wish I had a lift (or was Mikelly's neighbor ) since it would make fixing this so much easier. I also need to re-do the exhaust.

This Callaway is a 99? And it's a Turbo? I'm not aware of a turbo'd Callaway C5. Callaway makes a car based on the C5 called the C12 that uses a stroked, NA LS6. But no turbo(s). I suppose this could've been an extra special custom one-off. The C12 is $100K+. So that would make this an extra mega dollar car - maybe $150K. This seems fishy.

Doing mine piece-meal, no kit. I did the doors using a tip from someone here: Got some samples of various types of stripping from jcwhitney. Found some "slip on" door weather seal, ordered 2 rools - waaaay cheap. It kind of clips onto the door. I suppose it could also be glued. My theory was that at some point I will want to remove it all for painting anyway. This stuff made the door hard to close for the first 15-20 times, but after that it was fine. Door glass frame used to get sucked out at high speeds and generally there was always lots of wind noise, etc. Not no more. Nice and tight. I have no part numbers handy. Also, slackard that I am, I lost the assortment of samples - I know one of them would work as a hatch seal. Guess I gotta go back to step one. Anyway, if anyone does go this route, one tip - measure the amount you need, and then add at least an inch and a half. I kept only a half inch extra. Over time (been on there a year now), it will shrink a bit and now I have a nice one inch gap at the corner. Oops.

I'm gonna try and get to Reynolds with my car in Sept. I've never done me no 1/4 mile run. This T56 is rather hard to shift. My car also seems to run out of steam past 100mph. Could just be me. Could also be the 0.6 C/D. I need to get an airdam. You have a 3.7 right?

Hey, it's opensource (free) software. We're lucky it works at all. 8)

It also cuts down on accidental double posts.

I did it because I felt (rightly or wrongly), that in daily driving I was experiencing adverse bumpsteer. In particular, there is a long sweeper on my freeway commute which has 2 bumps and a dip. Car would get very squirrely in this turn and in other situations. After the mod, it seems (to me, seat of the pants) to have very much improved the behavior of the car in these same situations. Also, since my car is lowered, moving the pivot up helps to return the camber gain lost. So, in summary, thumbs up for the pivot raising mod. The other part of the mod that I don't recommend is the moving of the pivot Out. The car now has lots and lots of camber (great metrics there, eh? ) up front. Visually, it has the same camber front and back now. So, the turn in is very dynamic. I know caster is supposed to be the key for turn in and I didn't change that, but little steering inputs go a long way now. And it is very grippy - I haven't really pushed it (no track days or autox yet), but it seems to me that there is zero push (and I have a stock front and no rear sway bar). It's just that the transitions from straight line to turn are maybe a little too quick. In summary, the car takes a little more concentration to drive now. I don't think I'm explaining it well. And of course there will certainly be tire wear issues. I have only got about 5K miles on this setup and I don't see a visual treadwear issue, but I rotated the tires at around 4K and I could definitely tell - I had thought I had just gotten used to the car at some point, turns out that the tires had bedded in (or whatever you wanna call it) and when I switched them front to back, I was back to square one. I'd really like an experienced driver to take my car for a spin at some point (like a John Coffey or Doug Hayashi type) and give me some feedback. In the meantime, I am saving my pennies for some adjustable front control arms.

Hrm. My issue is that I have a Maxima ignition switch (ala Owen), so, it'd be nice to get back to just one key. I did notice that the Autozone sells Nissan door locks. So, just a wee bit o' bendin' then, eh?

Just to be clear - I have no idea whether you'll need the pan or not. I only mentioned it as something to be aware of. As far as I recall (which is not very well), the other guy doing the LS1->Z32 swap had modified his firewall and was setting the motor waaay back. A search for Z32 & LS1 should reveal the details. $200 is a lot of scratch - but it's all relative of course. I bought a used FBody pan (after I stupidly cracked mine) for $35. It was pretty grungy though. All the stuff I've bought from valvegod has been basically new condition. And obviously the Monaro pan is much, much less common and harder to come by - although next year when the GTO comes out, perhaps things will change.

No aftermarket pans are available that I know of. I do know that the Monaro pan is needed for the 3 series BMW swap. Chances are good that you can use the stock FBody pan. The C5 pan is similar in terms of simp location fore/aft. But it's shallower and has huge wings that make it crazy wide - too wide for the S30 I know for sure. But valvegod (Shaun) can get the pan. He's very fast and cheap - I bought an EGR delete intake (Monaro) from him for like $50 (got lots of other parts from him as well).

http://ls1tech.com is a great resource for the motor. I have not seen any info on specific problems with the LS1, but if there is any, there'd be a post about it there. Not sure what the mounting sitch is for the Z32 - there is another guy here doing this same swap. If it needs to be over the crossmember, you may need the australian pan. If so, you can try valvegod@aol.com - great resource for LS1 parts.

I don't see how cross member spacers affect steering geometry, bump-steer or otherwise. It will "adjust" the angle of the LCA (lower control arms) though. On a lowered car, the arms may point up a bit, which does not translate into good geometry. Instead of gaining camber in a turn, you lose it. Adding spacers makes this slightly worse. The spacers are mostly for underhood clearance AFAIK. Moving the pivot point up adjusts the angle of the LCAs to correct for lowered-ness. It also helps with bump steer by making the tie-rods more parallel with the LCAs. Stock, their not quite parallel so with susp. travel, the LCA and the tie-rod travel in different arcs, causing unwanted steering. When you move the holes up, yYou can also move them out to gain some camber. I moved mine up by 13/16s and out by 1/4 inch. I wouldn't recommend this though since I now have lots of front camber which makes the car turn easily, but it's very, very twitchy. This mod does appear to have eliminated bump steer nicely. I'd go with 3/4 or 11/16 inch up and maybe 1/8 out or none out. Nothing scientific backing me up though, so take those figures for what they're worth.

Where do you have the coolant vent lines routed? There's a line under the intake that normally routes thru the TB and then back to the radiator. I have mine going directly to the upper radiator hose (bypassing the TB). If you don't have the vent line plumbed, then the heads won't cool properly.

Which cmaro gauge pod are you using? I found out the hard way that the factory service manual LIES. The 99 sender is NOT 0-90ohm. It is 40-250ohm. My nice new autometer gauge reads half full at empty. I'd actually be surprised if you could get the fuel cell, regulator, sener, etc, for less than $400. I'm also surprised the the replacement GM unit is so high. You might try valvegod@aol.com. He deals in LS1 parts. Dunno if he'd be able to get something like that, since he mostly just has engine parts. He's great to deal with though - REALLY good prices.

I thought I would add some hard-won wisdom to this thread. I replaced a caliper yesterday and absolutely could not bleed down the system. One factor that may be important is that in the process of bleeding, I let the front reservoir (rear brakes) run dry (my son was helping me, so, umm, err, it was his fault, yeah, right, that's it). Anyway, I bled and bled and bled. Many hours of foolishness. Now, keep in mind the MC was not replaced, nor were any lines. I did go thru and check/tighten them cuz I was desperate. But here's what ended up fixing the problem: I bled the M/C. Here's the other interesting bit, the front bleeder (rear brakes) was clean - no air. But the rear bleeder (front brakes), blew lots. Lots and lots and lots of air. So, there ya go. When in doubt, pump it out. Okay, that doesn't mean anything, but it does rhyme.

No idea, here's what I'd try: Check all wires and connectors. Even if a connector is connected, it could have some corrosion inside that prevents a good contact. Check the coil. I have had many, many, many no-start situations that turned out to be caused be a bad coil. That's all I got. Since you've swapped the motor in and out, I'm thinking missing wire someplace. I have never pulled out or put in a motor without forgetting at least one wire or other connection someplace - but that's just me.