jeromio

I have to second the coughing on that one. I once caught 2nd turning left at an intersection. This was in Chapel Hill, NC and so a cop was there to pull me over. I dunno why he thought I was drunk (I had been at a party but hadn't had anything but soda). Anyway, he had me do the whole regimen. Like 30min. worth. Recite the ABCs backwards and forwards while walking a line heal to toe. Then lean back, back, no, back further, now spread your arms out straight and then slowly touch your 2 index fingers. Etc, etc. This was about 10-11 years ago and I still remember it. He never had me blow into a machine or anything. He did finally let me go (with a Warning for wreckless driving - this was in my 78 Celica 4 banger and I barely chirped the outside tire). I agree that DUI is very bad mojo. BUT, I think the laws are getting out of hand, esp. here in NC. If you blow a 0.08 (which is one beer for some people), they take your car. Then they sell it. Before you even go to trial! You borrowed a friend's car? Too bad, sold it for $100. The problem of DUI and people getting hurt/killed is with the repeat offenders. The alcoholics who drink 10 beers and go drive. They may not even have a license. So the normal, law-abiding citizen can now no longer even have wine with dinner. Which is a shame.

I dunno about that car. The bodywork is very nice. That big scoop on top though - not for me. And the idea of dual roots blowers. That doesn't make any sense to me. Roots blowers are pretty bad, effiency-wise. So 2 of them - that just can't be the best way to get power. Why not a centrifigal blower? I bet one Procharge could produce as much boost as both of those roots units. Here's my idea of a 914: http://www.opentrackchallenge.com/results/2002winner914.htm Apparently pretty low-buck too.

There is a guy here who will be attempting this as his very first ever engine swap project. I don't think "ambitious" effectively describes him. To my knowledge it has not been done. There has been One swap of an LS1 into a 240Z that I know of. There are about 4 others in progress. I think each one is being done differently. Go to http://ls1tech.com - they have a conversions board there where you can ask general questions about LS1 swapping. You're not gonna find anything specific because it just doesn't exist. I would suggest getting together a plan, and then finding some key things that you can frame questions around first.

Yeah, I thought you might be talking about ignition switch. The vette gauge pod should work - or a set of aftermarket guages for a Camaro or Vette. Just be sure and let John know exactly what you are trying to do. Also, he can set the VSS (speedo) value from the PCM to match up with your rear gear ratio. For the shifter, is the Z an auto? You may be able to just use the current shifter if so. And don't under-estimate the fatness of that 4L60E.

Pete and Mike - I emailed you the contact info for Dan based on the domain registration. It's listed as being up to date as of Jan 02.

Please don 't put mechanical guages in there. I don't know much about the Z32, but I'm guessing it already has full electric guages - including Speedo. Buy a comprehensive Factory service manual for the Z. Get teh values that the guages are expecting. Get to be friends with John at Speartech (http://speartech.com). He and other knowledgable guys post occasinally at http://ls1tech.com in the conversions board. If you give him the info, I bet he can reprogram your LS1 PCM to output correct values to the guages. If you really just want afermarket guages (VDO, don't buy autometer junk), then just buy a set designed for 98+ FBody or Corvette. R230 will be plenty fine. In fact, I doubt the R200 would break. I would leave the rear alone until it Does break. Why not use the existing Z32 radiator and fans?? You use the LS1 starter. That question actually kinda worries me. There's no way you could use the Z32 starter. Unless you meant the ignition switch. In which case, I dunno - that actually IS a very good question. John will disable the theft stuff on the LS1, but you may have antitheft stuff built into that Z32 ignition switch. In which case, you can always just use a starter button. All the wiring for the LS1 stays. It's a separate harness, so, not too much of an ordeal. There are some extra wires, but, I don't think the weight savings warrants the time of pulling them out. As I said, you'll want to mail your PCM to John and have him do the swapper programming. Good luck. I think it'll be a terrific car when you're done.

It's not even really a transaxle (even though I said it was) in the classic sense. It's a funny T56 with a diff bolted to it. No workee with Z. As is (LS1/T56 swapped in), the drive shaft is only 2 feet long. So you'd be talking about a 1 foot torque tube, 2 "bellhousings" and a HUGE transmission tunnel. Like, no room for seats anymore. Z06 has an LS6. LS6 = LS1 with slightly different heads and a different intake. The 98+ Camaro T56 bolts up to the block (it's the same block). The key issue however, is that the LS1 is not a 350. There ain't no kit. It's new territory for the idiots - er, uhm, I mean "brave" among us.

Look in the yellow pages under Fasteners. There's even a place in my little town that sells 'em in bulk that way. But you have to have an account, or at least have access to someone else's account. In otherwords, If you show up all joe-schmoe, they're gonna laffatcha. Like when I went to the local electrical supply place several years ago and asked for some wire. "How many feet?", "Uh, I dunno, 50?", "Right, you'll just wanna take yourself over to HomeDepot then, thank you.".

What he said. At this point, the LS1 swap is one of those "If you have to ask" kind of things... Also, the transaxle is not usable.

Even more than buying those individual fasteners is the time trouble (and gas - my driver is a big old truck) of fetching them. Took me awhile, but I learned that if I need one bolt, buy 5, or even a whole bag. I don't think a ZX shift knob will work? The shift lever shaft is like 1/2 inch diameter. I think I've solved that though - I'm drillin a 1/2 inch hole in a foosball, baby!

I agree with Davy and would only add that with the enlarged holes, you'll want to weld the washers in more than you would have otherwise. In other words, the washers are there mostly for a nice surface for the bushing to ride against. But in this case, you'll be depending on them more as a pivot location, so they'll need more than a simple spot weld.

I'd like to think that I'm coming into the home-stretch on this project. Especially on the dollar spending aspect. Except that today, I went driving around to get some odds and ends. Exhaust hanger stuff: $25 Muffler tip: $30 (WTF?) Shifter knob: $40 (??!?) I only ended up getting the hanger stuff - ran outta dough. I have a really hard time justifying them dollars for a short chrome/stainless piece of tubing and a simple knob. The 3inch exhaust is hard to find stuff for. And all the simple (cheap) tips max out at 2 1/2 inch. The only one I can find is a huge, semi-geachy resonator type with a 4 inch OD. And knobs - oi. I can't even really locate a simple knob in the stores. They're all totally geached out. Can only find simple ($$) ones online. I don't have a shift lever either and had a helluva time finding one. Ended up buying one offa guy on ebay for $20. Hadn't even thought of that one. Had to get a replacement coil, $45. Still need plugs, intake plumbing, air filter, etc. Ugh. Money is wasted on the wealthy, I tell ya. I could sure spend it if I had it.

Hrm. This'll be me tootin my horn. On the motor crossmember, sorta sounds like you are talking about something like this: Dunno why I can't find the pic I took with the motor towers bolted on the legs there. I hope it's not permanantly lost. And for the trans crossmember, TimZ and I had the same idea (well, he had it first, so, really it's his idea): Except that I think you've taken it a bit further, adding an extra set of bolt thru mount points. That does seem interesting. You could then use poly bushings in those bolt thru's and eliminate the GM-style tranny mount. I do think that it may get too bulky in the tunnel with that design though, reducing the available space for exhaust. And the way I've done mine, it's pretty easy to get the crossmember in and out of there (this is version 2 though, the first one there was some difficulty lining up the 4 bolt holes). All of this is required for the LS1 swap (well, at least my version of the LS1 swap). But the LT1 swap could definitely benefit since it eliminates the interference betw. accessories and datsun motor towers.

Whatcha gonna use for a TB? salvage yard GM unit? I'm seriously considering converting my truck to EFI and that Megasquirt has alot of good features - price chief among them. I looked around, but seemed to only run across examples where people used existing EFI TBs (BMW, Audi, Saab, etc.). Nothing similar to anything I'd be able to adapt (easily) for my truck. What about using an old carb though? Take out all the carby stuff (bowl(s), jets, etc), and then drill a set of stepped holes for the injectors. Might be too much hassle....

Elder Schmelder. I don't wanna grow up. Hearing "Daaa-add" ten times a day is hard to fight against though. BTW, the slang of the 7 year olds is truly unbearable. Lots of "Sweet" and "Tight" and "Awesome" and not much else. My theory is that the slang from ages 6-10 is condensed from some kind of time warp from 20 years ago. I dunno. I'd be much happier if he spoke like Len back in his Fairlady days...... BTBTW, I think the originator of this thread is loooong gone anyway.

It's really a very screwy design. Lots of the FBody guys have problems with clutch engagement - even on stockers. GM has had to tweak it every year (98, 99, 2000, 01). Normally, In order to actually adjust clutch engagement, you just mess with the setup of the (externally mounted) slave. With this design retardation, you have to pull the trans, remove the entire clutch, get a Press and the appropriate donut shaped steel doodad, and press down on the thing and then adjust these fingers on the clutch. Then put it all back together and hope for the best.

I guess I read that wrong - I thought you meant 2-3 inches forward of JTR - dumb=me. I think (from vague memory) that my passenger side head is about 3 inches from the firewall. Possibly 2 3/4. The difference is in the interior of the 2 cars. 240Z never came with a 5spd and the 4spd shifter is further back about 2-3 inches. So a 280Z 5spd in a 240Z means the shifter hole has to be cut out larger and the console can't be used:

I think Mike missed the fact that you've got a 2001 T56. To answer your question, Yes, you must separate the motor and trans. Slave is inside. Buy a McLeod 3/4 master (got mine from Sunnit for something like $30). Modify your slave The drill and tap sizes will depend on the fitting you use. I just used a fitting that I happened to have lying around and then matched it up to a tap and then used the appropriate drill. Woulda been better to have used a longer fitting. I retained the little rubber O ring in there. I updated my page (linked to that pic above) with all this info.

Phantom, I think you are gonna run into problems with that engine placement. See my page at http://240.jeromio.com/motorswap and click on the T56 page. My engine is maybe 1/2 inch, at most 1 inch farther forward than Gary's (Lonestar1) and his is pretty much JTR position. Look at where my shifter comes out of the hole. Since yours is a 280, you may not have as much of an issue. And I suppose if you don't use the stock console, you won't have any problems at all. But just be aware that in the wayback, JTR placement, the shifter comes out right about at the stock 280Z 5spd shifter location. I sent my PCM to Speartech for reprogramming. $300 +$10 for shipping back. LS1Edit woulda been nice, but at $550, too expensive. Fuel pressure regulator and so forth will be a problem (and $$$) if you use the datsun fuel system. Talk to John at Speartech, he'll be able to help you with the custom programming of the PCM. LS1tech.com has a conversions board and that is a very helpful place to go. Look for a post there where I listed the part number of the Mcleod 3/4" clutch master that I and a few others are using. On my t56 page I have photo of how I modified my slave to work. The mechanical speedo adapter is about as expensive as a new electronic speedo. I recommend VDO. I am planning on using the Camaro guage pod, modified heavily. I bought the thing for <$60 vs. $450 for all new guages.

Thassa spanky drawing. Stance has just the right amount of exageration and emphasis. What's the medium? Colors are very smooth. I'd really like to see the original - cali's a bit far though. So, Jerry is a professional artist?

You can only say you like it if you haven't seen the other pictures (which I saw posted on another forum). I saw this, and thought, well, not great, not terrible. Then I saw it in context, with people standing next to it. It looks like a pedal car! It's really quite silly.

What? Well warm beer to the Fourth moderator cuz I fer one really did enjoy me some Fairlady slanged out isht-talk. Oh well. People do seem rather sensitive here of late. Witness the reactions to James's Alabama Smackdown posts. Certainly hope he doesn't decide to leave and take all his Z know how with him (PS, don't ban me from the site cuz I'll die and then my wife will sue )

I have Terry's brake swap on my car and I ordered a set of Russel ZX SS brake hoses. Since I have the complete ZX brake setup front and rear, it works out perfectly. For some reason MSA shipped me a few extra lines. Not sure why. I'm using one of them for my clutch.

I think the JTR book is about the only one that discusses swaps. http://jagsthatrun.com I personally think that people tend to worry too much about the weight and its distribution. The 6 cyl is not all that light and furthermore it's very long - spreads the weight farther up front. And when you're adding lots more power, an extra 100lbs or so is not gonna ruin it. I've not heard or seen anything about the 5.2 rover. I presume it's a bored/stroked 215 (3.5L)? That'd be quite alot of boring and stroking. There was a guy in Australia (or perhaps new zealand) who had a Buick 215 in his Z. Link is broken now though. Obviously it can be done. I think if I were you, I would just stick it in there Scarab style right over the crossmember. If you have a manual, you'd need to take a JTR approach though and use some setback. We have plenty of parts vendors that frequent this board - brakes, suspension, etc. But I think shipping to the UK would hurt real bad.

So, are ya keepin the results of the Scottie/James showdown a secret then?????