Mudge
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Posts posted by Mudge
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I spotted this post as "Focus kills a Mustang."
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I remember a post on CamaroZ28 a year or so back about an 18 year old working at a shop, that was crushed under a jeep that was on a lift that failed.
"Being in a hurry is nothing to die for." - Thats one to remember, like eh, dont crawl into a giant shredder to pry stuff free and then lose your arms after you slip, stooooopid.
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4 bolt mains on the Vette (non splayed), different TB ducting (no big deal since you wont use it anyway), and a VERY minute camshaft difference, and dual exaust on the Vettes - otherwise its the SAME BALLGAME. Oh, non hardened pushrods after I believe 96, I run CMolly anyway.
My personal preference 1995 first, 1994 second, or get a 96-97 and deal with the wiring, and grab an OBD I computer from a 94/95 FBody. The 92-93 setup is a chip instead of EEPROM, just a bit more expense and hassle, they are also SD cars not MAF.
Vette would be nice to have, but they will both handle about the same HP before something breaks, namely the rods. I revved my 2 bolt block to 7k with no issues, and no upgraded rod bolts either. Since the bare blocks are cheap I'd probably get one for peace of mind if your looking for a stroker project, otherwise try to get a deal with your trans of choice, wiring + computer etc
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LS1 early rods are not known to be strong, but they seem to hold up overall.
T56 is in the 9s on a little over 3400 pound car, WITH slicks, how long will it last who knows. He had the trans cryoed though, there are also upgraded output shafts yada yada if you want to get fancy, but 500HP is not going to be pushing it all that much on a road raced 240Z that weighs about as much as I do
I had no hesitations in dumping the clutch on my street tired, 411RW LT1, it was fuuuuuuuuun I'd love to have an LS1 project, but as basically just said, it is a good bit more expensive for not a huge gain, just a bunch of small "ooh neat" which adds up to a nice overall difference, but for the bread, it could be spent elsewhere, they just happen to have the best numbers put to the ground of a Chevy SBC in near "stock" form, or even stock for that matter.
There is an LT1 with SBC 18º heads and a mild hydraulic roller doing something north of 600HP, at a peak RPM of I believe 6400 RPM, so they have potential too but other than the block your throwing alot of things away so to speak. As far as the LT1 block goes it is believed to handle 1300 HP just barely, although I haven't heard of a cracked one on a blown car yet.
Jeff Collop, 390 RWHP NA + 200 shot on a stock bottom LT1/T56! Now I dont think that thing had alot of life in it, but he NEVER blew it up, he has a 383 now though
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Yeah, I bet this was the sheet in 1980 heh... that and Back to the Future.
I like the STFU button idea, I think I'll wire that up to a stun gun put under the passenger seat.
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I disagree. With rod ends installed in the brace the strut towers will still 'twist' under load. Having the above type installed is better than nothing, but not perfectly ideal.
I think thats the job of a cage through the firewall and tying into the crossmember, I dont believe a strut tower brace should even think of doing such a job. Stress points like that on such a small surface area just dont seem right, we are supposed to tie the entire front end down with 3 studs on a peice of rubber sandwiched between THIN sheet metal?
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Peak power comes way before 6000 RPM.
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Bring a 1 1/8" socket with you
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There is also the remake of the ZL1 aluminum big block, its about 5k bare, may not be as good as an aftermarket though I dunno.
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True, the engines are somewhat cheap, its labor intensive to swap though and yada yada. Rebuild is definately a good idea, I dont know what RPM the stock crank will take - but full floating rods would be a nice idea, Grump has a post about it in fact, stock L6 has pressed stuff.
If that is 270/280 @ .050" then I have a hard time believing its all over at 7k RPM, that is huge, at least its solid but still that is a nutso size. I'd look at 245-255 if your looking to stick in the 7k RPM range, JMO though
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Powerdyne sucks, he must have had a 4psi system though to only do 298RW! The 6.5psi setup is supposedly an additional 75HP, really on the low end/wasting your time type blower.
cc306 in a stock head LT1 will put out 355RWHP, wont pass smog though (no matter in a 240Z!) Solid roller I believe I mentioned above, 244/244-114 400RW in a 93 with a loaned chip (bad tune). Mine was hydraulic, stock 3.42 gears and was very streetable, open loop tune got me 17-19 MPG average when I was daily driving it to work in San Fran (no freeway stuff), 411RWHP @5900 (ignition miss) at the wheels, 320RWTQ @ 2500, peak of 385.
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MegaSpark was developed and tested with a MSD 6AL. I would think other MSD models would work, as-well as other after market ignition boxes (Accel, Crane, etc.) that are designed to work with points but do not rely on the point input dwell. I have no knowledge of OEM (or other) ignition boxes, I can not give you any specifics on connecting particular ignition boxes. But the following info may help. Beware of boxes that also control the ignition advance!
http://www.aracnet.com/~hafner/SparkManual.html
* Run on MegaSquirt v2.2 Hardware w/ no modifications (no EFI support)Megajolt aka "LITE"
http://www.bgsoflex.com/mjl/mjl_edis.html
http://members.shaw.ca/megasquirt/MS%20FAQ.htm
Scroll to the bottom and you will see "Megasquirt related hardware."
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There are two megasparks that I remember (one or two future planned). Both of them do not have their own ignition circuit, they work with Megasquirt (I dont know if they can operate alone?), and drive an MSD6 unit by default, but they say they should work with other boxes that accept ____ input (whatever it says...).
The Megasquirt I know how to get, as well as the Digikey stuff, its the AVR that is an offshoot of the project that some other folks put together. While the regular Megasquirt has a baseline VE table calculator (I forget who wrote it), the AVR will do it automatically, its almost unneccessary I suppose, so I will have to investigate further before deciding which to go with. If the regular Megasquirt will show BLMs then I could live without it, if it only shows me O2 data then its tough with a narrow band.
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It will also depend on lobe profile, remember the cam is the most complex item in the engine, practically a "brain" if you will.
Desktop Dyno requires full cam specs (other than lobe data, it just guesses), this means you need .050" info, 270/280 @ .050" WOULD be a revver, but realistically a 270 intake on an L6 cam is what a 220 or 230 @ .050"?
For something to peak at 6500 you'll be shifting above that, so that when you drop into your next gear your not outside of your powerband, so you can do calculations on that also. I'd look at a 230 intake approximately if your going to rev it out, and thats about as big as I think I'd go from what others say about cams on these cars, they already aren't making monster torque but at least they are light. If its a stock bottom car I would be hesitant to take it past 6500 myself, but I dont like unexpected supprises, some people get lucky some dont.
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You can pull a threaded sleeve out from any block other than an F54 turbo car, unless you want the oil cooler with it.
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Yeah, I'm not totally sure I'm sold on going for the AVR, although the automatic VE is pretty cool! The firmware is written in C instead of ASM, small nitpick really, I dont expect to see 16,000 RPM on a V8 anyway. I have to look into it more, plus look at the parts list and see if its easy to get that stuff in the states.
Plus the normal Megasquirt box is already half way assembled for you, soldering the chip would make me nervous, thats pretty fine work and sensative to heat...
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A 3.5 ton floor jack that was under 5" lowered and had a 28" reach.
4 7-ton jackstands that extend to 30".
For a deal like that, I probably would have tried to live with the compromise. Even my uber-jack doesn't have enough reach comfortably to get under the Camaro, and its 3 1/8" profile is not low enough to get under the crossmember without me rolling up on some wood! So I could have saved some dough anyway, oh well.
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I'm no chassis guru but I agree, I see nothing wrong with rod ends. It would seem wrong to expect an STB to act as a cage, IMO its there to avoid the strut towers coming together under load, if you want to stiffen up the front further then start welding some bars in there, JMO.
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John has 16x10"s with 275 Hoosierdaddys.
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450-500 crank? Sure, you could do it, however most people are running 60:1 or larger, 60:1 is considered on the small side for a V8. Avoid detonation and you should be safe. However you could make the power with some headers and throwing in a solid roller, and not have to do any turbo fabbing, although if your going to turbo anyway then doing it the first time is probably a good idea.
Longevity over the point of 500 crank HP on one of these cars is a bit iffy, 550+ is where you pretty much admit its going to break eventually, rods wont take it and the crank flexes pretty badly.
I would avoid the Vette PCM unless you buy a Vette, the C4 uses a master computer and that to my knowlege would cause problems when trying to stick it in another car, although if it has the same PN as the FBody PCM then you could flash over it safely, again were talking LT1s here there are further differences when we talk LS1s. Imp or FBod PCM and use an FBod file is what I'd do, 94 or 95 PCM only, unless you want speed density and chip burning hassles, but you can turn your 94/95 into SD mode anyway with a simple switch (in the PCM).
SD may be the way to go with boost, but I know someone running 9s with the MAF on a stock ECU and a low impedance injector box of his own design (he sells them also).
LS1s are still pricey to work with until Tunercat comes out with something, they were shooting for spring but now I'm told summer this year.
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Since I just got them about a week ago, I sincerely doubt they stopped selling them. However I dont doubt there is a limited supply, these injectors were not in use on the turbo cars after 1986 as the design changed, so its fortunate that they are available at all. You could consider just getting yours sonically cleaned, if you think that may be the issue.
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Yep, buy in for RBs is too crazy for me, I'll stick with the 20 year old rice banger for awhile
10k would get you a stroker and a blower setup if your carefull. -
Thats what I have
Jacks are made in Holland or Sweden, I forget. 3 1/8" and about 38" long reach, 99 pounds. I have thier 2nd biggest, the next one up cost another $80 or so for I think only 4" more lift, and I already dont lift all that much (stresses the crossmember in funny ways too), I primarily needed something to get under the long nose of the fargin Camaro. I like everything about the jack but the weight (keeps me from using it sometimes) and that black plastic handle is a crock, I dont even use it.I dont put jackstands at 4 corners either, someday a lift or pit would be nice.
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Ahh, without opening the engine is another story. Big solid roller might do it, I know of an LT1 that did 460HP crank with a 244/244-114 on stock heads, but generally NA means opening the sucker up vs turbo, which is why I have my own turbo car
adjustable power levels on the "cheap."
I had no hesitations in dumping the clutch on my street tired, 411RW LT1, it was fuuuuuuuuun 
adjustable power levels on the "cheap."
RB26DETT vs. LS1 (aluminum)
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Everything is the difference between LS1/LT1, GenII vs GenIII.