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Mudge

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Posts posted by Mudge

  1. I have seen some lame tunes, and I'm not even talking mail order. I saw a guys solid roller setup, "professionally dyno tuned" and his AF was around 14.2:1 @ WOT in the highest RPM range, I got mine near dead even after 3 pulls :roll: while thier curve, has too many curves :D

     

    Shutting off after 7k? That sounds wierd, the default method is to bring back the fuel after 50 RPM, if they were blown/turblow/nitrous then that could result in engine failure if its hitting with spark but "no fuel" in the cylinders :shock: If those are 94/95 guys I'd like to see the tune and thier dyno sheets, if they feel like exploring the curious reasons why.

     

    On my 97 Cobra, the method was much different - you would not get power back until you hit something like 2k RPM, I forget what it was, but woe to he who hits the limiter in a corner!

  2. There is a local guy making 1680 turbo HP on a V8, there is another guy with a blown 1k HP car, I would talk to them and ask what it takes to get a V8 up there. Hit up the Yahoo list I pointed you too earlier.

     

    Your not going to make 1k HP on stock internals and road race it, for long.

  3. I am looking at a graciously donated VG30 ignition module, in hopes that it might work on my 82 ZXT car. I see that GB goes to pin 5, Blue goes to pin3 and coil ground.

     

    My question, is what goes to GB (pin 5)? Is it a pulsed signal, or is it simply 12v+?

     

    On the 82 turbo, blue goes to coil negative, and its triggered by a ground signal from pin 5 YW, on this other input area (t connector) + from a switched source (key on power) provides the + juice. BW goes to + on the coil thereafter.

     

    On the schematic for an 84, GB goes to pin 5 but pin 34 is (GW) which is providing + to the coil. Anyone know whats going on at pin 5 and 34? Are they plain jane positive?

  4. #1 choice 1995, #2 1994, both OBD I, EEPROM - my own car is a 94 but converted to a 95 Opti.

     

    VATS is an issue on every car, there are 18 known resistor values to use inline to fool them, and its a programmable switch in the computer.

     

    However low miles may be easier to find on OBD II, if you go that route just dont take the PCM, if its an option try to snag an OBD I PCM and figure how to convert them over. All I'm aware of is, knock sensor needs a resistor in the knock module to work (last person with a Jag/LT1 told me this didn't work), or buy the knock sensor, probably $50 or so.

     

    Wont need the rear O2 stuff, OBD I doesn't have post cat O2s. There may be other wiring differences, enough people have done the swap that I really would say go do CamaroZ28 and hit the programming forum, someone will know, or Google may pull it up, maybe http://www.projecttransam.com

  5. Ed Wright has about the most experience, he locks some of his programs on other computers which I'm not fond of, but he has every right.

     

    http://www.pcmforless.com is one, I believe MustGoFaster is out of biz, he seemed like a nice guy.

     

    http://www.tunercat.com/tnr_desc/links.html

     

    I am an advocate against mail order tuning, but when you have the chip situation maybe its the way to go. I think you can get a used chip programmer for around $100 though, then the cable $65 or build yourself, Tunercat $89, and get a couple dozen or so EPROMs.

  6. Nope, unfortunately tuning is not so simple as automatic VE adjustments to get BLMs to 128, nor do you punch in cam specs, I only WISH it were so easy.

     

    Are you going to stay SD or go MAF? You can program a 94/95 to stay SD but you get the EEPROM that way, no removing the computer constantly :) I've probably flashed around 170 times and had 2 close calls, one advantage to the 93 I guess is if you have an incomplete burn, you lose a chip, you dont have to send the PCM out to get repaired (or a dealership can flash a stock program for you).

  7. I'm only a sys admin, I gave up on being uber-nerd know-it-all ;) So it has its, sexy appeal to me to have an automatic VE table, just seems cool. I read on the Megasquirt group recently that they experimented with it early on, but it would make so many constant adjustments that they felt thier safety net of 10k writes on the EEPROM would have easily been met with not all that much time elapsed. Another thing was that values would overwrite each other, sometimes with complete junk (sounds like program errata to me but whatever), anyhow the log and calculate stuff sounds like it works so well that its not needed anywho.

     

    The simple fact that you dont have to turn the car off to program seems NUTS to me, because I'm used to 3 minute reprograms, with the car off - required. Real time alone seems sweet to have :)

     

    As for Megajolt stuff, it sounds like real time timing work can be done, but only at idle, they are saying that there are too many calculations going on to safety reprogram timing stuff while at high RPM, sounds fine to me I spose, log and watch the MAP :)

  8. Sometimes problems were fixed for a few days at a time, by telling people to clear thier cookies and internet cache. AOLs proxying service will still cause problems from time to time, most especially with sites that require logins.

     

    Another thing I despise about AOL, is that to get thier "internet" service to work with your website, you basically have to figure out how to make it work on your own, otherwise you have a sea of AOL customers who somehow think it is your fault that your site doesn't work. Or of course you could pay them and you can build a keyworded site that works with the AOL service, more cash for AOL. For the developers, down to the support people, AOL customers had to be around 80% of who we talked to.

     

    I could go on and on about how many times over they are making money off thier customers, but I've probably already annoyed a few :)

     

    /rant

  9. From the boot code, to the fuel and ignition, is all on the chip. Once you burn an EPROM its no longer really useable, you can make a read on it and then make your changes - but thats the advantage of EEPROM, no removal hassle and no burning equipment costs either.

     

    Being that there is only one removable "chip" it should be sorta obvious everything is on there :)

  10. Ooooooh, yes if the O2 sees an exaust leak it WILL run rich in a panic thinking the car is madly lean, it may pull timing (modern cars do). When I get such a "lean O2" warning on the Camaro its like a kick in the groin, it pulls ALOT of power.

     

    Sounds like fun, unless I find an ignition module cheap I'm going to go Megasquirt, and I think thats most likely whats doin. BTW, the VE calc they have supposedly is VERY good with a few minutes data logging, so the real time AVR seems more "bling bling" for computer nerds than anything needed. The baseline calculator is also supposed to be very good, so I look forward to it.

  11. Yep, the AOL program installs a proprietary stack that screws up alot of software. If you do have other services available in your area they would be good to look into.

     

    I never much liked the idea of sharing cable bandwidth, but I still get 3mbit down 1mbit up, faster than any DSL I have ever owned, even slow cable made my old DSL line look SLOW. I was paying for 384/128 and used to get 700kbit, after problems ONLY occuring on weekends they bumped me down to 384 giving me 300kbit effective throughput after I SPECIFICALLY said thats not the problem, otherwise its quite obvious the problem would not be weekends only. I'm sure other companies are better but even slow cable is FASTER, on the east coast some people have had bad luck, that is where investigating various companies comes into play.

     

    Just like anything else, research is needed, or else its hit or miss. Maybe http://www.dslreports.com could be of some help. I was able to let my cable guy just do the TV/Phone stuff, I setup the network stuff already (just had to rename my computer and set it for DHCP).

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