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Mudge

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Posts posted by Mudge

  1. If you want to gain more power on the low end, that generally means less duration. Since I assume you aren't going to tow any boats, just stick to a 10-20º increase in duration and you should be happy, the stuff that goes lump lump though, may not be what your looking for. With a 3.90 though I could have had a very lumpy cam and it still would have been driveable, first gear was worthless as it was, and that would really help get you off the line without bogging it down.

  2. You can flash the computer with either a stick or auto tune, finding a spare computer is easy and relatively cheap though. We do still have at least one inhibitor with the stick though, and thats the clutch pedal, which must be depressed wether the car is in gear or not, to start the car.

  3. I like your design, much of that is because the first one just looks like so many other cars out there today. I think the way you accentuated the rear over the tire, makes it look a bit beefier and more aggressive, kind of like the Porsche and its fat rear end, to accomidate tires + engine.

     

    Your grill design looks Mustang-ish.

  4. Without dropping the suspension or getting the spindle pins out, its pretty tough. I leaned on my suspension after getting the springs compressed to get mine out and it was still a bit sticky, pulled down on the rubber top to get the thing out. Putting them back in wasn't much fun either, especially when I had to do it a second time for both sides.

     

    To make it "easy" I'd just drop the strut assembly with the A arm and drum yada yada, probably take about the same length of time just less swearing.

  5. I have no traction so it must have 900 HP? . . . . :roll:

     

    Easy way to find out would be duty cycle, injector size, and # of cylinders. I would think something like this would be dyno tuned, which would have given them a number instead of guessing. I suppose if you have enough track space you can tune with a wideband though, not my prefered method though!

  6. Yes, triples can be expensive, but they are much less expensive than a custom EFI setup, or even some modified stock EFI systems.

     

    Cheaper than some, not all. I'll be sure to document my costs of course.

  7. Because most of us dont think in base 16, so it can be conusing to some. A product like Tunercat on the other hand, puts everything into "humanly readable" numbers and words, so its a little less hacker-ish.

     

    But as for bang for the buck, it beats a $1500 aftermarket box, so long as you have enough headroom to make the changes that you need. I have decided to just go Megasquirt, after reading up on it for awhile.

     

    I use a Hex Editor from Breakpoint software called Hex Workshop - there are free ones out there though, this one does have a shareware version as well I believe. This one of course has built in calculators and such to help make things easier. http://www.bpsoft.com

  8. Casting flash can be removed yes. If the exaust manifold is BLOCKING the exaust port then you have a problem, if the head chamber is smaller than the exaust manifold/header then that is NORMAL and desired. The problem with exaust is you cannot just blindly open it up at the port. If you haven't read any books on head porting, it would be strongly advised, alot of people screw up thier own heads by not knowing what they are doing, killing low end power and either making no more up top, or even hurting it. Even some pro shops dont seem to know what they are doing, example would be a "Stage II" head with a cam known to make 375 RWHP on a stock head car, and these "awesome" heads only make 25RWHP more, which tells me they are lying about flow numbers, and its not uncommon to cheat the flow bench or flat out lie.

     

    For doing a real job on those heads, expect 30-80 hours of labor.

     

    As for continuous flow on the intake side, usually a porter will leave a 1mm step or so for "safety" and for gasket to seal beter. If you have good strong gasket marks on your intake and your head, scribe them before they dissapear. If the heads intake runner is smaller than the intake manifold outlet, thats when it will not be able to put as much volume into the head as it should be able.

  9. Port match to what?

     

    The exaust is never port matched to anything, what extra lip is there on the exaust side is there for anti reversion.

     

    The intake runner should not be an obstriction to the intake manifold which it will be if you open it up, moreover the intake runner itself is not the low flowing part of the head. In other words, dont touch it. Work the bowls if you want to port it, polish the exaust runner for heat retention but do not do the same to the intake side.

  10. Next question is, what are your opinions on EFI vs. Carbs. Is there any benifit in doing this swap other than the aww effect when I raise the hood?

     

    Some tunability in the EFI stock setup but not much compared to rejetting a carb. If you dont know much about carbs I wouldn't recommend it to someone, unless your willing to invest the time and money to get them running right, as well as study time. Expect your going to have to buy a variety of jettings, especially if you decide to change the cars setup. If the car is going to remain stock LEAVE IT ALONE.

  11. Also, big HP guys will likely use forced induction. But I know for a fact that Clark at JWT has/had a 240 with a built NA 3.0liter that was making 300 hp on the dyno, and it had triples. Lets see someone do that with a standard nissan EFI.

     

    I would not imagine anyone trying to do that on an NA computer/setup with EFI, after all your talking a highly modded car to make that much power NA, and this means reprograming.

     

    I dont think its fair to even attempt to compare stock EFI NA or Turbo to tripples, correct me if I'm wrong but tripples are insanely expensive IMO, with setups going for ~$900+ I wont even consider it. For a street car I will stick to EFI. If I'm going to build a car for the end of the world, then I will build one carbureted, if I could even find a way to keep it running.

  12. Lockup means no slippage, for gas milage this is a good thing, since it brings it closer to a gear to gear setup like a manual trans. A car will not stay in OD on an automatic when WOT, not likely to happen. Some people have trouble getting thier Automatic to stay in OD @ WOT, for those that might tend to want top speed type runs (not really suited for automatics).

     

    A real drag car will not have a lockup converter, if thats what your friend is getting at.

  13. You can't tell and idiot anything. Just ignore him or make it clear that he is not wlecome around your place. Life is too short to have to deal with dumb shits. Improve the quality of your life and distance yourself from him. Mark

     

    Damn straight.

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