OZZ240

Second update. Clutch worked using the above stock parts but still felt that I was not getting enough travel so decided to make a new push rod for the slave cylinder. Made a new push rod 4mm longer than the stock 1986 300ZX Z31 NA slave and all is working well. Not sure it was needed but feel better for doing it.

Hi, Wanting to see how much a pair of Rear Brake Calipers to suit the Rear vented disc/rotor for a 1987 to 89 300ZX Z31 would go for and approx cost to ship to Brisbane, Australia using USPS, or alternate shipping location would be Calgray, Canada and if the price is right would be interseted in getting them Thanks Ian

Rolled the rear guards , now I need to fix the cracked bog and paint nothing's easy

Found my small fuel leak, its looking like I've got a small pin hole in my surge tank

LS1 coils are pretty good have been told the LS truck coils are even better, both have built in igniters they are CNP ( coil near plug) lots of guys are using these, do a search on LS1 and LS2 coils, I'm in the middle of converting to the LS1 coils on my 240Z

Just checked wire colours from the Z31distributor to the Haltech wiring harness First colour = Z31, second colour = Haltech wiring harness White to Green Green to Yellow Black to Blue Red to Red That's how mine has been wired

Just had a look at the wiring diagram and quick start guide for the PS500. Only use one set of the wire groups either the “Trigger Input†4 core (GY) or “Home Input†4 core (GY/B) it all depends what type of distributor you are using. Do a goggle search of images for both a Z31 distributor and a 280ZX distributor and you will see the difference between the two types of distributor optical and reluctor Z31 distributor uses "Trigger Input" 4 core (GY) I’m using the complete Z31 distributor so my car has been set up using the "Trigger Input" wires only as it uses a optical sensor/hall effect sensor the guide for the hall effect sensor uses the following wires from the Haltech wiring loom Red +12V switched: Connected Yellow trigger (+): Connected Green trigger (-): Not Connected Blue ground: Connected Note Green wire must be insulated to avoid shorting 280ZX NA distributor uses "Home Input" 4 core (GY/B) If you are using a stock 280ZX distributor from a NA car they use a Reluctor sensor so you would have to use the "Home Input" wiring the guide for the reluctor sensor uses the following wires from the Haltech wiring loom Red +12V swiched: Not Connected Yellow signal (+): Connected Green signal (-): Connected Blue ground: Not connected Note Red & Blue wire must be insulated to avoid shorting If you are using a 280ZX Turbo distributor it is an optical sensor/hall effect sensor so you would use the "Trigger Input" wiring hope this helps

My 240Z is nearly finished a engine transplant and now has a VG30ET sitting where the L24 was. I’m using a completely well nearly stock Z31 distributor. My modifications to the distributor was removing the cap and rotor, I've made a blanking cap to replace the cap as I was using a ignition module and coil pack but found they did not work too good together and just about to start upgrading to individual LS1 coil packs once they arrive in the mail fingers crossed they get delivered today. Had a friend wire up the Haltech for me as he has done a few Haltech conversions, when I get home will check wiring out to see how he has wired up the distributor

I went down the MS kit road, never put the kit together and sold it before getting to involved with it, reason why I did not use the MS because it does not give enough map points for getting a good tune/map for my setup so the Haltech PS1000 was my choice of ecu and was so glad I did not pour to much time and resources into the MS. I was very close to getting the Haltech sprint 500 as it is a very good alternative to the MS. I would reckomen going down the Haltech road over the MS. SuperDan I like your commen "is some pieced together high school science project" - I think you may of already made up your mind go the Haltech you won't look back

Got the clutch working using 240Z clutch master cylinder and a Z31 clutch slave travel with theses together the clutch slave travel is 15mm

Update Got the clutch sorted out.....found that the clutch master cylinder was not adjusted correctly to the FSM once that was adjusted to the book I found that I had a clutch . I then bleed the clutch system again just to make sure it was as good as it could be. Then measured now much travel a 1971 240Z clutch master cylinder and a 1986 300ZX slave cylinder mixture gives a grand total of 15mm of travel at the slave cylinder. Fingers crossed I will be driving the 240Z by end of the weekend as my mates coming around to finish off programming the Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 Saturday morning

Found the bleeding procedure in the FSM and have been doing as per the book but I'm guessing I need to go back and do it all again and see if it comes good

Can anyone tell me how much stroke the clutch slave cylinder has as I can't find it in the workshop manual I have. The reason I ask is Im in the middle of a engine and gbox conversion of a VG30ET into my 240Z I want to check that the stroke length I have matches the 300ZX as I'm mixing a 240Z clutch master cylinder with a 300ZX slave cylinder Thanks Ian

What is bench bleed the master? as there are no bleed nipples on the actual clutch master cylinder. This is what I did to bleed the clutch hydraulic system I filled the clutch reservior up and opened the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder and let it self bleed then closed the slave nipple and did the normal peddle down open nipple close nipple, pedddle up etc etc and then I took the slave cylinder off the bell housing and held the bleed nipple above the point where the clutch line goes into the slave and tried to bleed it somemore with the nipple at the higest point. Because the bleed nipple is on the bottom of the slave cylinder it may take a lot more mucking around to get it bleed correctly. I've borrowed a vacumme hand pump for bleeding hydraulic systems it pulls the fluid thru the slave rather than push it thru so will see if that makes any difference.

Thanks, I checked the clutch master cylinders between the 240Z and the 300ZX and they both have 5/8" bores but don't know if there is a different in the stroke/ travel of the clutch master cylinder. Going by what you have said the std 240Z clutch master cylinder should do the job as the same clutch master cylinder was used in all S30 model Z cars that I've found out so far. Will give the clutch another bleed and check that the clutch peddle is adjusted correctly and that there is little or no backlash/free play on the clutch slave cylinder. Fingers crossed I can get it sorted

Hi guys, I'm nearing the end of my VG30ET engine and gbox conversion and was wondering what others have done with there conversions when they did there clutch master & slave cylinders. Currently I'm using the 240Z clutch master cylinder and using the 300ZX Z31 clutch slave cylinder it appears I may not be getting enough travel via the 240Z clutch master cylinder and not sure if adjusting the clutch peddle will make a difference to the slave cylinder travel. If the 300ZX Z31 clutch master cylinder was used does it bolt straight up to where the standard 240Z clutch master cylinder or what did you have to do to make it fit Cheers Ian

Just bit more info for you, My 71 240Z does not have any screws at the front holding the bezel/gauges in this may be true for 72 and up. I loosen off the wing nuts at the back and by pushing it evenly from the back it will slide out towards the steering wheel mine took a bit of pushing as was a tight fit in the dash but once it started moving it came out pretty easily, you may need to take the steering wheel off if you still have the factory wheel fitted to get the bezel and gauge out in one piece, I also have a dash cap on my Z but this did not cause me any problems just take your time and should come out ok.

There are two wing nuts holding each gauge in place up in behind the gauge, you need to lay on your back under your steering wheel and look up at the back of the gauge a flash light will help you see the wing nuts. I found laying on my back on top of the seat with my legs on the head rest got me in a pretty good position, also will need long nose pliers to help you undo the wing nuts

Thanks for the info

My project car is a 240Z and with a VG30ET engine transplanted out of a 1986 Z31, If anyone could let me know what the stock rev limit is for the VG30ET and is it possible to increase the rev limited safely, if so what can I set the new rev limit to?. Modifications to engine: Stock engine Aftermarket ECU which would more than likely be a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 Upgraded injectors 650cc and fuel rails to suit (future proofing for later upgrades) Stock Turbo Stock Boost level at this time but looking to possible increase boost level max of 14psi this increase would be a future upgrade.

Just found your project, thanks for sharing your project!!

If I can ask ...what was the ebrake cable off? and how did you attach it to the standard ebrake lever Cheers Ian

Are you able to let me know what the part numbers are for those rear wilwood brake calipers?

Fact or Fiction As the title says who's using these as I'm unable to find a gearbox from a Z31 to fit my project car (240Z with VG30ET) does it work and what did you have to do to make it work? I'm thinking about using the two wheel drive Hardbody DX21 or Narvara DX21 (where I come from) 5 speed box, flywheel and the front part of the driveshaft and slave cylinder. Is there anything else I need or is there a cheap alternative out there that I can you instead? Thanks

This is true with the L28 it is a nearly a direct bolt in if you have a factory L28ET with wiring harness unfortunately I only have a L28 NA (should of said that in my first post) and that was why it was on the list of engine swaps my only concern with the L28 is I would need to convert it from NA to a turbo and I don't have any of the parts to do this (L28ET where not a option here in Australia) but I could always rob the turbo and ecu setup from the VG and bolt all that on which could end up being harder to do and end up little bit messy. This will be my first engine transplant but have been involved with a couple of others so fingers crossed it all goes pretty well Yes I have the VG and one of the issues that I had with the L28 NA is its not going to be a factory turbo set up where the VG is. To do a carbie set up to EFI engine transplant either L28 or VG I would still need to: make a surge tank and add fuel pumps relay and fuse for fuel pumps etc fuel lines and filters modify the exhaust engine mounts - only required for VG30ET modify/move alternator bracket - only required for VG30ET oil filter change size or remote mount - only required for VG30ET extras I'm going to do intercooler radiator upgrade possibly twin electric fans for radiator brake upgrade oil cooler drive shaft modification R200 Diff and Z31 drive shafts 5 stud conversion I'm guessing that I have missed a few/lots of other things guess will find out when I get there .