OZZ240

Thanks for the info Think I had already made my choice in the back of my head VG30ET here I come As it is going into a right hand drive car the steering shaft wont be a issue with the turbo but it could be with the oil filter and alternater have yet to check. Still interested to hear what others have to say and may help someone else take the jump. Will try to do photos and bit of a write up as i go

Max would be around the 350HP happy with 300HP

For those that have done these conversions I'm looking at doing an engine conversion into my 1971 240Z and was wondering what the pros and cons of each engine conversion are. Is it worth the major change to go for the VG30 over the L28? It is my daily driver and I intend to circuit race the car a couple of times a year just for fun. I have both engines sitting around so its just a matter of either bolting in the L28 or a bigger challenge and go for the VG30 I'm not worried about the bigger challenge of fitting the VG30 but more interested in wether the end result is worth the extra effort. Cheers Ian

Was just wondering have you bolted up your 1/2 shafts from the diff to your hubs yet? if so did you have to do much modifications to the shafts to fit?

Thanks for the help, I've just ordered those bearings should have them by this afternoon then off to the machine shop to get my rear housing machined

Hi great job by the way, With fitting the Z31 rear hubs into the 260Z bearing housings you said that housing needed to be machined for the new larger outer bearing (SKF 6207-2RS1) but what did you do for the inner bearing? as your photo gallery shows a picture of the outer bearing close up but no close up of the inner bearing and part number would you be able to share that infomation for the inner bearing please? as this is the path I want to go down. Thanks for you help Cheers Ian

Hope you can help as I'm chasing some information if I can on how you have done the front struts as I'm about to start on the Tein conversion, did you cut the existing strut tube off leaving what looks like 25/50mm protruding out of the casting refer to your web site Datsun 260Z 2+2 - 74 Projekit image img_4357, then slip your new strut tube over the top refer to your image img_4359 and weld around the base refer page 13 image _MG_8169? It appears you have done the rear differently by completely removing the old strut tube and have made a new one which looks like it is a press fit into the rear wheel bearing carrier then welded around the top refer page 12 images img_1292 and 1294?. Did you machine out the hole where the rear strut tube is located or leave as per factory? Thanks for you time and help Cheers Ian

Just found while looking for this and related topics that PrOxLaMus has changed his front diff mount to a Ron Tyler or R/T mount I think he changed to this mount sometime in 2009

Well I have moved the standard R180 diff back using the R200 moustache bar, R200 rear transverse link mount and front diff mount out of a 260Z which has the R200 diff. Photos to follow This is what I ended up doing... I slotted the diff mounting holes in the moustache bar inward 1.5mm each side as the studs coming out of the rear cover on my R180 diff are closer together than the R200 with this done the R180 bolted up nicely to the R200 moustache bar. The only down side is that the full and drain plugs are now close to the R200 rear transverse link mount, so would advise if you think you need to check and/or replace diff oil I would do so prior to removing your old transverse link. I checked and replaced my diff oil today and had to remove the R200 transverse link. Took about an hour to do the whole job. While I had the opportunity a made the R200 transverse link mount adjustable before fitting it as the previous owner had made the original link mount adjustable and also had slotted the top holes on the transverse link brace, I measured between the centres of where the lower arm bush’s sit and found it to be 6.5mm wider than the R200 transverse link mount so followed their lead and did the same to the R200 link mount. Front diff mount need to check which way I stuck that in can't remember so will come back and update this part. Remove the diff arrester strap which holds the front of the diff from coming up and hitting the handbrake/ebrake mechanism, with the front of the diff sitting further rearward in the car the diff front drive flange/driveshaft flange would of rub constantly on this strap. Will make something to replace it/do something similar to a Ron Tyler mount, or modify the std mount to restrict its movement will come back to this also. Got the 280ZX 2+2 driveshaft I had shorten to fit. I think when I convert to a R200 CLSD the driveshaft may have to be shortened or lengthened not sure on that at this time but if someone knows the length of a R200 from moustache bar to drive flange that will let me know for sure until then only time will tell. The reason behind the diff relocation was my 5 speed A series box died so fitted a 5 speed 280ZX N/A box and was hoping when I change from a R180 to a R200 diff all the work would be done and would not be up for a second driveshaft modification. By the why when I changed to the 280ZX gearbox I put the speedo drive from the A series box into the 280ZX box and my speedo did not work, found out that the speedo drives have different offsets from the centre of the gear to the slot on the speedo drive body and are opposite to each other so instead of cutting a new groove in the speedo drive body I removed the roll pin which holds the speedo gear and shaft in place from each of the speedo drives and swapped over the whole gear and shaft from one to the other so now I had the 280ZX speedo drive housing using a 240Z speedo gear and shaft was very easy and only took 5 minutes. I used a 2mm drill as my punch as the roll pins are 2.5mm in diameter. Now my speedo works a treat!!! If I have forgotten anything will update this when I add photos Cheers Ian

Thanks Mark for the grain of salt info , When I first decided to move the diff I only though that I needed to replace moustache bar but found I also needed to change the rear transverse link, which I'm still waiting for and hope that it arrives before the weekend so I can organise the new driveshaft as I'm getting Z withdrawals!!! Cheers Ian

I've just replaced my A series box with a 280ZX 5 speed and now need a new driveshaft, at some point I'm going to replace the R180 with a long nose R200 diff which means I have to use the R200 moustache bar and change out the Rear transverse link mount plus rotate the front diff mount around. The real question is can I now use the R200 moustache bar and the R200 rear transverse link mount on a R180 diff and use the stock R180 half shafts with this combination of parts? and Once I have changed to the long nose R200 diff can I use the same drive shaft? (as I hope that I won't need to redo the drive shaft again!!). At this point I will have to change my half shafts correct? I already have the R200 moustache bar and rear transverse link mount plus a new 260Z front diff mount Being a 71 car the existing diff is sitting in the forward position so moving it back using these parts should not be a problem but I guess I'm trying to minimize the costs of future upgrades. Thanks

Thanks John

Thanks John dumb question but I'm guessing that its the same front and rear?

Hi Guys, I've looked and looked but can't find the answer....... Can anyone tell me what the standard shock travel / stroke length is for the front and rear of a 1971 240Z, this info would help me a lot Thanks

whats the difference between the HF and HIF SU's?

Thanks guys this is the info I was looking for and will check them thoroughly before buying Cheers Ian

Thanks for that will grab myself a bargain

I want to upgrade the motor in my 240Z from the stock L24 to a stock L28 which will get a mild cam and set of headers later on. I was thinking of using the carbs off the L24 and replacing the needles and springs and bolting those on, so I rang and talked to the local Carb guy about needle and spring sizes to suit the L28 he sugguested going for the British SU and suggested the HS6 which is 1 3/4" in size as parts are easly accessable and cheap for these over the Hitach's and said they are easier to setup and tune. My brother has a set of HS6 and set of HS8 that I can have. The HS8 are 2" in size. I think the 2" will be to big for the L28. Am I better of trying to find the right needle and spring for the Hitach round tops or go for the SU? If I do use the Hitach does anyone know what Needle and Spring sizes I should use? The L28 has a N47 head and a F54 Block I think the pistons have a small dish. Thanks Ian

The BIG Question is can I and is it ok to make a set of Triple Carbs from two sets of twins which are of the same size, manufacture and model type? I've been offered a made up set of triple 40mm Dellortos for $250 which I think is cheap. These will be going on a stock L28 for now with a mild cam and set of headers to come. The carbs are off either a 1.8 and/or 2liter Alfa motors which are very close bore, stroke and valve size to the L28, the carb specs are 40mm with 32 Venturs I'm guessing the will need to have a rebuild plus jetting changes to suit the L28. Is there anything I should look out for? Thanks Ian

Hi Rob, Thanks for the info Cheers Ian

Why is it harder to fit the rear strut? What machining other than the new coilover sleeves did you have to do to make it work? As I'm think that maybe I should do the same as my shocks and springs need replacing and I could see myself doing something like this. I would be fitting these to a 240Z so wondering what the difference in rear strut from the 2+2 is I measured my rear strut as per your image http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2981 and I get roughly the same dimensions as you 275mm. I don't know where the difference is between the 2+2 rear strut and the 240Z?. I measured the overall length of just the standard strut tube from where the shock retainer nut screws into the top of the tube to the top of the casting as per the above link and I measured 390mm. I do know that the rubber mount that isolates the shock rod/spare to the car body are different lengths. Hope you can help and keep up the good work Cheers Ian

Like what you've done!! Very interested in the rear brake setup you have, Was there much machining of the xf caliper casting required? and if so would you let me know how it was done?.....and was also hoping you could put a couple of photos up of how the front brake caliper mounts to the strut. As I'm looking at doing a brake up grade on my 71 240Z Cheers Ian

Hi Richard, At this stage just a road car but hoping to do the odd track day here and there. I have heard that the Navara 2x4 g-box fits on the back of the VG block (5 speed), would like to go the 6 speed 350Z box but I think from memory/readed somewhere that the RB20DET and the RB25DET g-box bolt pattern are different so the story goes... don't know how true this is but was thinking along the lines that may be the VG25DET and the VG30/35 g-box bolt pattern could be different as well, did a quick search here but did not come across anything here about it. Ian

Has anyone done this conversion? VQ25DET into a 240Z? I'm looking/thinking about doing this in the next year if all goes to plan. Couple of questions This motor is out of a 2001/2004 Stagea 250tRS Four which is a all wheel drive car. Does anyone know what gearbox & flywheel combo I could bolt up to the back of this to make it rear wheel drive only? I'm hoping that the gearbox bolt pattern is the same as either the VG or VQ 3 litre plus series blocks. I know I will have to modify the sump etc to get rid of the front diff assuming it is based on the same principle as the RB26DETT having the front drive shafts run thru the sump. Is there any other issues I could run into using this motor? The reason I've picked this motor is by the time I get to doing the transplant the engineering rules for modifying your car may not allow me to have a forced induction engine with a larger capacity than 2.8 litre hence going with the 2.5 turbo, or alternatively I can't go any bigger capacity for a NA engine than 4.1 litre and I don't want to go V8. My other option is doing a RB series engine conversion but I like the idea of the VQ series. Thanks Ian

Start with bleeding the master cylinder as you said you have a new one and then move to the furtherest brake bleed screw from the master cylinder then work back to the closest ie back right then back left then front right and lastly front left, see if this helps