LiquidCMR

Chicken, I PM-ed you with more details about my engine/setup. I thought I could attached screens and my tune to the PM, but I couldn't....so I put them here in the post. Thanks again! - Liquid Original_2017-12-05_10.36.02.msq 280ZXT_Settings_12_7_17.docx

Great info guys, thanks! Chicken, may I see your AFR table, or perhaps you can comment on mine (image attached). I'm in Buffalo , NY where the weather had officially turned to crap, so I'll be focusing on just idle tuning in the garage for a while. General tuning question: If I have Incorporate AFR table (enabled), does making VE table changes work, or does the AFR table take over and basically negate the VE changes? Thanks again, - Liquid

I have EGO enabled but I don't think my settings would effect the car at idle (see attached image). Not sure what you mean by idle VE enabled. I have WUE enabled. I have also attached my current tune for anyone who like to take a look. Note: I did not change my settings last night but noticed the car was much leaner at idle compared to the other night when I was making the changes and burning them. How can that be? It's almost like as I burned them interactively with the car running they weren't doing anything....but when I restarted the car the next day they did take effect. Does that make sense? Thanks again. Original_2017-12-05_10.36.02.msq

Please don't beat me on this one, I have searched all over and have not found an adequate answer. I have my General Settings set to Incorporate AFR table (enabled). I have used VEAL and have a good VE table. Lately, I've been messing with idle and I wanted to lean it out. I have keep reducing VE values in my idle range and it seems like my AFR never really changes...it may lean a little but then goes back into the high 12's or low 13's. My stupid question is, since I have Incorporate AFR Table enabled (which happens to be set to 13.0 for idle), what if any effect will VE table changes have on my actual AFR? I'm starting to think that I could change the VE's all I want, but AFR will just auto-correct to what I have in my AFR table....is that correct? If that is correct, why would anyone ever change their VE table if the have Incorporate AFR table (enabled)? Tonight I will go and change my AFR table to 14.5 for the area where my idle lives, but I still have the questions above. I would appreciate your collective insights. Thank you, - Liquid

Please see wire diagram I'm using here. mspower_ShemV1.2 (3).pdf

Hello All, I've had MS-2 3.57 running fine with some ugly wiring and few fuses for a couple of years on my '82 Turbo Z motor. I'm now in the middle of wiring in the MS Relay Board (20 connections) which has built in relays and fuses. The question I have is regarding my EBC setup. I'm using FIDLE (pin 30) which grounds the solenoid fine. Where do I run this EBC wire to the Relay Board? I think/assume it would be Pin/Connection #6 but was hoping one of you experts could confirm. What drives me crazy is that the 37 PIN to 20 terminal screw Wire Diagram does not have a solid line connecting 30 to 6 like it does for other connections (see attached) Another question: Can I run 12v power to the EBC via the Relay Board, or should I just keep that coming from a separate relay (not part of the board) like I do now? Thanks! - Liquid

Thanks Matt. I cleaned up some of the connections and have the EBC on a Relay with some of the other MS sensors. First couple of trips it worked as expected...I changed the Duty cycle and the boost level changed accordingly. Last couple of times out I notice the max boost, which I thought I had pretty stable at 12 psi, is moving around a little. Reading the Forums, I see I'm not alone with my Open Loop boost wonder issue. I may try Closed Loop. What do you use?

Matt, Thanks for the suggestion. For now, I have the new EBC in and working...well, sort of working. I noticed when my electric fan comes on, the EBC gets flakey....even after I wired the EBC directly to the + post for test drive. Time for me to get serious about correcting some of my "temporary" electrical connections. I assume the EBC should go to a dedicated Relay triggered On with switch power, right?

UPDATE: For whatever reason, when I tried to save the tune using FIDLE for boost control over the weekend, it saved fine! No idea why it gave me conflicts in my earlier attempts. My latest issue is that the EBC I purchased back 2012 from DIY does not seem to work. I first ran the car at 10% duty and slowly increased all the way to 60% and my boost never rose above the stock 7psi. I then put TS in test mode and turned Fidle on/off and could not rear the solenoid make any noise. When using my multi-meter I see the expected results....so started thinking the EBC solenoid was dead. As a final test, I hooked it up directly to the battery and kept touching the ground on/off and could never hear of feel anything. Safe assumption this thing is DOA? I ordered another one that should arrive later this week. I'll start a new post if I continue to have issues. Thanks!

Matt/All, I appreciate you looking at this. Attached is the Tune that gives me the pin conflict error when attempting to load to ECU. I researched more yesterday....and still don't know what I'm doing wrong. HELP!!! Boost_Fidle_Conflict_Tune_2015-08-28_09.47.46.zip

Hi All, I have MegaSquirt-II Programmable EFI System PCB3.57 with the 37 PIN connector installed in my '82 280ZXT engine with bigger injectors and inter-cooler. Been running this for a year with manual boost controller set to 12 PSI. All along I've had the EBC that I bought with the kit sitting in a drawer. Last night I finally decided to replace the MBC with EBC....and guess what? I ran into some issues that I'm hoping you folks can help me with. I used the Fidle wire (pin #30) along with a Switch power 12V wire to connect the EBC. I also plumbed in the EBC vacuum lines (simply replacing the old MBC). So far so good. I then set my Boost Control Pin to "Fidle" (see attached image). Problem is that when I try to burn this to the ECU it says I have pin conflict. I don't know where this "conflict" is, so for now I have it set to JS11 (I don't know what JS11 is or the PIN#...if any of you know the wire for this, I can certainly change my wiring around). Attached is my current tune (with it set to JS11 since it won't run/save with Fidle) along with datalog from this morning. Any assistance in setting up EBC is appreciated. I'm sure I have other settings wrong so please, don't hold back with suggestions. Thank you, Liquid 2015-08-27_08.26.47.zip CurrentTune_Liquid_8_27_15.zip

Metro, Thanks for looking up what I had for the MAP Sensor....great catch! I will correct both MAP and Bar to be MPX4250 this evening and change Barometric Correction at Total Vacuum % and Rate% to "0" and then update my barometric correction curve to 100% across the board (per Tuner Studio instructions) I'll also double check the vac line, and take a closer look at all settings while comparing to other tunes I've downloaded over the last week. This is quite the learning curve. Appreciate everyone patience. - Chuck

AkRev, My recollection is that I did not give much thought as to which vac line to put a "T" in. I must have used a TB line which as pressure....what fool I am!! I will confirm this evening. Thanks!

That is a GREAT Question...and one I've been investigating since last night. Something must be wrong with my internal MAP sensor and/or a setting in my config is way off. More information: My MAP/kPa readings are over 100 ALL the time and the car has no load (just revving the engine in neutral). Please see attached log which shows the high kPa /Load / Boost. Note: I have a vacuum/boost gauge which shows plenty of "vacuum" while at idle. What should kPa be at idle? Like 35? I've searched and can't find a setting that would explain the extra 80+ in KPA Any ideas what I messed up? HELP!!! Also, I took Mike's suggestion and purchased the registered version of tunerstudio. Before I run the auto WUE or VEAL, I need to make sure this MAP issue is sorted out. Thanks, Chuck