Dkyle

i have a turbo engine from an '82 ZX that didn't come with a harmonic balancer. i am going to use my old one from the original '77 engine. i have the bolt, but don't have the washer. i see that MSA has the '77 washer for $5 and the '82 washer for $11. what's the difference? Do i get the washer to match the balancer, or the bolt? The answer can save me $5 to $6.

I removed the EFI hardware & harness from my '77 280Z, & will install a pair of SU carbs. I will keep the stock fuel pump and will put a regulator on the line after it feeds the carbs and is returning to the tank. I found this article in my search to know more about what the fuel pump will doing after i removed the EFI stuff. The manual indicates that there is a relay for the pump and another one in the air flow meter (which has been removed). So I have a few questions.. 1. will the fuel pump run when engine is cranking or running with the EFI hardware & harness removed? 2. how can i pump up the fuel lines and carbs without cranking (just looking to test the pump and fill the lines) 3. where does the vent line get hooked up to return to the tank?

great thread.. if i may.. i would like to ask a question about the geometry here.. what are the implications of having the wipe pattern closer to the pivot side.. say about 1/16" offset from the middle vs having it in the middle? i ask because i have heard some shoot for that.. and i don't know why.

yes.. the 274f schneider is 215 deg @ .415" lift. Did you install it straight up? or advance it #2 ? What size lash pad did you end up using?

i have the same question.. & I also have a similar build.. P90 NA,with SM needles; but went with custom "domed" pistons (.040" over) instead of shaving the head. With a 1mm gasket I should have a bit > 9.5 CR. I polished the ports. i'll be using a 3.95 differential. I had decided on the Schnieder 17033 cam (215/215 dur .480"/.480" lift) but the cam is not avail with a 107 lobe seperation. Schneider has convinced me that their regrind of my old "Turbo" cam would be good.. the core is a better material than those new cams.. higher nickel content. After the regrind, they should be telling me what lash pad I'll be needing to order. My only decision now is what spec to regrind it. I want the car to be quick; to be able to jump, accelerate quickly, whether i'm going 30mph in 3rd, or 70mph in 5th. I'm not sure I'll be taking the car much over 100mph very much. I would want the Powerband in the low-mid range? I also do NOT want it to ping. I don't know how a 220/230 dur .460" lift would be different from a 215/215 .480" lift. Do i seperate the lobes a bit more to help mitigate pinging? ..108, 109? Any ideas?

Can I ask about the term " ..bore ring finish mismatch" ? Are you referring to the ring gap? If so, then what is proper gap for flat top pistons under a P90 head with just less than 9:1 CR ?

On another forum there is a 6 year old post from some that used the thread inserts from Time Fastener. ............................... When you get the threaded inserts from Timesert: 1. Remove the hydraulic lifters 2. Thread the Timesert inserts into the lifter bosses until they bottom out 3. Install solid lifters ................................ He goes on to say.. They're 1.5mm thread, as are the solid lifters. Hydro are 20 x 1.5 x 28 (total lifter length). Solid 18 x 1.5 x ~19mm. www.timesert.com The Timesert item number is 18153 (M18x1.5x18.3 INSERT) Time Fastener Co 5301 Longley Lane Reno, NV 89511 (775) 829-1026 ........................................ Has anyone tried this? Does it stand up in time? Is the insert loosely threaded? Requires Locktight?

89 Honda Prelude seats in a 77 280z Removed the sliders and fabricated mounts for the 280z sliders to bolt on. As you can see.. The rear mount had to wrap around to provide the pivot for the seat back. I also had swap positions of the sliders. Worked out well.. Tight fit, but got it as low and as far back as possible. They make me seat about an inch or so higher. The stock seat belt feed out bracket is in the way, I will have discard it and use something else. Probably added 30 lbs to the car.

I have a 77 280z and seats from an 89 Prelude. I'm looking at how I can install the seats, and it doesn't look easy at all. I wish JHM's pics included the brackets. It seems that I would have to remove the Prelude's right side (driver's seat) slider/mount entirely. Then use a flat iron piece that turns up at a 90 degree to mount it. The rear piece would have to include a bolt welded to it for the back hinge I removed when discarding the original. The rear mount would have to be mounted 2 inches higher to straighten out the slope of the 280z' floor mounts. And then there is the tunnel bashing (or cutting). ..and it does seem to be a tight fit all around. If anybody has done this, I would like to know how. Any pics of the mounts underneath? Any measurements, like how much to raise the rear of the seat, or how far to mount the 280z slider away from the Prelude's left side, outside mount?