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So I found an '82 280zx in beautiful condition for having sat out in snow, rain, sleet, hail, sun, etc. for almost 12 years. I contacted the owner and he told me he had no plans of restoring it and will give it to me for $1500. There's almost no surface rust and the engine still runs after all this time. I am planning on completely restoring it then in the future modding it as I make it through college and stuff. There is a slight misfiring issue whenever it starts, but the owner says he thinks it's spark plugs, but to be safe i'm replacing the spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, oil filter, and ignition distributor rotor to get it running smoother. The driver side seat cover is torn, so I will also be getting new seat covers and also probably a dash cap since the old one has cracks all over it. I will then use that to learn manual (I know I'm a disappointment, I've wanted to learn for so long, just never had the chance to). I will post some pics of the car so you all can see the current condition and give updates as I find out more. The plan is to have the car in 2 months, then get it back running within that month, then drive it for a week or so to learn stick then I will set it in the garage and start the internal restoration. If anyone has any recommendations or if you find anything in the images, feedback would be very appreciated.

After much thought on whether or not I wanted to create a full thread of my first 240z build I have decided that it would be worth it in the long run and nice to look back to. I will have about a year to catch up with then I will continue to update as the build goes on. Backstory: I bought this Miata when I was a senior in high school. I wanted to see if I was truly passionate about cars and if I enjoyed working on them/driving them. This car was a blessing and a curse, I quickly found out that I loved cars and all of my money would be taken by them. Fast forward and I had supercharged it with all the basic Miata mods. The car was extremely fun, but it was not a car that I saw myself keeping for the long run and I had this long list of parts/mods I wanted to do to it. I had always wanted a few cars but they were just out of my price range; 240z, s2000 and a few old muscle cars. I thought about it and decided that if I was going to pour tons of money and time into a car I wanted it to be a car I wanted to keep and loved the looks of, not just enjoyed the drive. Once I had made this decision I was a sophomore in college and began the long search for a Z. I spent about 9 months of searching everyday for a s30, primarily looking at 240zs.

Because I haven't seen any videos talking about lash pad sizing, cam degreeing, degree wheels, or TDC on an L28, I figured I'd take a shot at it. Please excuse my video production qualities or my lack of expertise. Like i said, just wanted to take a shot at these subjects. Please comment if i've missed something big or small. thanks joe lash pad sizing.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQSf2TinWc4&t=215s TDC short block....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvcXhv-HZ_0 TDC validation with head installed ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09AJpZ9z0EY Intake cam lobe center validation... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=895VzDZA8pA

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVWOfaVyyBTcOek6TEn4R8A?view_as=subscriber https://www.facebook.com/blytheliferacing/

I am looking go find suggestions on diag for a fuel issue with my 1977 280z. It's as if all 6 injectors are clogged (though highly unlikely). I have fuel pressure at the rail but I was thinking that the BCM could be the most viable answer (not commanding the injectors to fire) I have spark at every cylinder new pump and filters. Seasoned S30 mechanics any suggestions?? I don't have a lot of diag experience and appreciate any input (except the negative BS).

Hello, I had the L28 and 5-speed from my ‘81 280ZX swapped into my ‘78 280Z and the budget shop could not get the pedal linkage to correctly connect to the throttle body linkage. There is wood pieces at the firewall (exterior) keeping the linkage in place and the pedal is pretty close to the floor without much motion. I don’t seem to have a pedal stopper to adjust in the S30 so I don’t know what to do to get the pedal to have full range of motion. Has anybody encountered this problem and know the solution? I couldn’t find anything online... thanks!

Selling a few parts I have all located in San Diego. Just took apart a running 450hp L28et so I upgrading a few parts now. 1) $150 Fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator combo deal. Will work for barbed or o-ring style injectors. Will come with adapters for o-ring 2) $200 shaven and clean webbed intake manifold. Cut off the web part and semi polished. Egr all closed up for a clean look 3) $250 Turbo exhaust manifold with welded in external wastegate flange. Had a Tial 38mm wastegate. 4) $150 Tial 38mm wastegate silver. 5) $275 Deka 550cc low imp injectors

This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366

Looking for some advice before I dive head first into the engine bay. It is a 1977 280z pretty stock minus headers So I had accidentally left my head lights on. So, of course, my battery died. I tried to jump start the car and it cranked and smelled of gas but wouldn't turn over. I figured I might have flooded the engine for trying to much so I let the car sit for about 24 hours. I brought a new battery (tested and all so I know it works) and it was the same problem. The engine cranks and I smell gas but it won't actually turn over. The ignition coil has spark. The distributor has spark. But it just won't turn over. Any ideas of what to check? Also I should add the for about a week and a half before this happened my car has been running a bit rough. It just started out of nowhere. The engine has a bit more shake to it and there seems to be a good loss of power. I kind of suspected the water temp sensor since I had a problem with it in the past. I replaced it's plug but not the sensor itself. And if I ever touched it while the car was running it would cause a rough idle. Anyways if anyone can give me some advice it would be much appreciated. I'd just like to add that I'm a young car enthusiast. I know my way around a wrench (I've changed the intake and exhaust manifold myself and cleaned up some wiring) but I'm far from an expert. And I know very little about the science of electricity.

1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT

Hello all....My name is Austin and I have so many questions! So, I'm sorry if some or most of this has been covered but there are 500+ pages of threads just talking about L28's and have not found what I'm looking for, so... I'm gonna had another! I recently acquired a 1973 Datsun 240z with the original L24 & 4speed. I had a stock long block rebuild of the L24 quoted by a shop near me, which came out to be roughly $5000 ($1700 in parts). Which is more than I want to pay for a stock rebuild (150hp maybe). So I have decided to entertain the possibility of an L28 build instead. But because I am so new to the Datsun universe / engine builds in general, it is becoming difficult to see the start point, let alone the end point of this project. I would very much like to see some (all inclusive) comments. Meaning, builds that people have done before and are happy with that include as much detail as possible. Sort of a one stop shop for people looking to build an L28. Keep in mind, I might not understand all of it. So in writing your comments, please keep them simple. I'd greatly appreciate it! 😊 The goal: * 250-350 HP * 11:1 CR ** A street performance car | Occasional track day car ** My Questions: 1: Has anyone bought from California Datsun ?? https://www.californiadatsun.com/long-block-short-block-engines/datsun-240z-280z-l28-n42-head-l28-flat-pistons-engine.html * I found this and thought this could be a good starting point for an L28 build. What are your thoughts? Anything I should be concerned about? 2: Build options! I know a lot of L28 builds are out there but lets assume that I begin with the engine listed above. What are the options to push that to 250-300 HP with 11:1 compression? Is adding compression from 10:1 to 11:1 something even worth worrying about? * Please include all details! Thank you all! I greatly appreciate it!

I want to build a 3.0l for trackday use. L28 crank 81mm light strong rods light pistons I want over 300hp this is my first Datsun but i have many years of engine builds. So now I want some tips of what is the best bang for the buck to build a 300+ hp engine

Hello everyone! Im new to the Hybrid Z forums so I thought I would start a build thread for my build on my 1975 280z. Current car: 1975 Datsun 280z Mods: Subaru Power Steering conversion, Full Eibach suspension, aftermarket swaybar + full polyurethane bushing conversion, Toyota front disc conversion, aftermarket A/C installed, 240z driveline, (im probably missing some things so I'll update it as I go.) I have roughly 20 years of receipts of all the work done to the car. I just recently acquired the car so everything listed above was done by the previous owner. Now here is my plans for the rest of the car: [Key --> Green = Acquired Crossed Out = No longer using ] Turbo Spec Motor 7.31:1 Compression (N42 block/P90 Head) Either T3 Precision Turbo or T3 Turbonetics Arp Head Studs External Wastegate + Blowoff Valve + AFR + Boost Gauge Oil Cooler Turbo dizzy 82/83 280zx + shaft Megasquirt EFI kit from Softopz 550cc RX7 Injectors / 440 cc Supra Injectors (For Sale, Message me if interested I will ship at no extra cost) Turbo Oil pump (thoughts?) 240sx throttle body + Sensor Intercooler + Piping Oil Pressure T for oil lines to turbo (in & dump) 2mm head gasket to lower compression to 7.8/1 wastegate Downpipe (need a dump tube as well for the wastegate) Turbo Manifold(x2 anybody want to purchase my extra?) + wastegate adapter 2.5" exhuast / black widow widowmaker Upgraded Ignition System (not sure which to go with yet, suggestions??) NGK Plugs Pallnet Fuel Rail Kit + Throttle Body Spacer Electric fuel pump upgrade + New Pressure Regulator ------------------------------------------------- UPDATES: Update 11/3/2017 - With some great info/advice from the comments, I am highly considering going with a megasquirt plug in play kit made by softopz (just waiting on his reply at the moment). I've also decided I definitely DO want a bigger cam, so any suggestions on that front are helpful as well. Also I have added that if I go the megasquirt route I am ordering a pallnet fuel rail to compliment it. Update 11/4/2017 - Alright after meticulous research, hours of comparing prices and talking back and forth to people who have done the cam/turbo builds and the potential power gain (and I do mean COUNTLESS hours of this haha), I have decided to completely ditch the whole cam and head upgrade idea and go the turbo build route. For almost the same price (actually a bit cheaper) I can get alot more smiles per gallon with the turbo build. There just isn't enough power to be had on the N/A build for the amount being spent. So as of right now this is the game plan. I will continue to add to this as I see fit, everything will be updated on this original thread post. Part 2 11/4/2017 Just went through the receipts on the car (dating back to the late 90's) and boy was I in for surprise! All of the tedious work to maintain the stock L28 has been completely gone through by the PO! For example the timing chain kit from Z Motorsport has been installed, Tune up kits routinely done, fuel pump and filters / lines replaced, harmonic balancer replaced, and the list goes on. I couldnt be more happy with this purchase!! Did I mention the PO gave me a close ratio 5-speed for the car?! This car amazes me and I am very thankful that it has had such meticulous care over the years. Update 11/7/17 Added some parts to the list. Also purchased a turbo manifold on facebook for 150 bucks! ***Update 11/10/17**** I have purchased a complete L28 turbo motor setup at a very very good price! Here are the engine specs: L28 N42 Block with dished pistons, P90 Head, N47 intake, turbo manifold, Pallnet fuel rail + Fuel pressure gauge, 440cc supra injectors, rebuilt chinese housing turbo with turbonetics internals, turbo dizzy, and assembled with ARP studs. Came with some other misc parts as well. Update 11/13/17 Link to spreadsheet for parts list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iOiWBJyjQH3KEkLnBor0snwgOvXaUo4I0qIo1ZDYFZo/edit?usp=sharing Update 12/7/17 Tore down the entire motor and I am going to rebuild the bottom end and the head and all freeze plugs timing chain etc... Ordered all the parts just need to hot tank the block to start assembly again.

So I am installing an RT Diff Mount with the Energy Suspension PU top mount (GM style) bushing. I am also keeping the L28 drive train. Has anyone done this mod and corrected for the lower drive train angle that occurs with the RT mount? Have you shimmed the mustache bar in order to return the driveshaft to diff angle back to factory spec? I am using the AZC mustache bar and was thinking of reusing the factory mustache bar washers (minus the rubber) to shim the bar down approx 1/4" to get the rear of the diff lower and correct the angle. I know the RT diff mount was originally designed to accommodate the V8 swaps, so the drive line angle is a concern for the original L28.

UPDATE: 2/14/15 After a rather long hiatus, the build returns with updates! As some of you may know, I decided to go with the professionals with this build. Looking at some local shops around my area, most notably Rebello Racing, and also some other shops across the country, I've decided to send my dear L28 out to Eiji Hosomi at Datsun Spirit Inc. (https://datsunspirit.com/) There are three main goals that I wanted my motor to achieve. 1. Speed > Power. I want my motor to run like a hot knife through butter. It needs to be quick and very responsive. Power is nice, but a quick revving motor is what I seek. 2. Character. My beloved Z will eventually be my weekend car. I don't want the motor inside of it to just be a fast engine. It needs personality and character. Something that sets it apart from, let's say, a Honda Civic. This is why I went for triple Weber 45's, a flywheel that weights less than 10lbs, and my desired cam (more info on those later.) There's a certain character I want this motor to display, and I believe this build fits the bill just right. 3. Reliability. It might seem like an oxymoron, having a fast and reliable sports car motor, but I've seen time and time again how these motors, when built by true artists of their trade, can withstand almost anything you throw at them. My new motor will be running on pump gas, will idle smoothly and will barely break a sweat with the granny-like driving I put my Z through. Engine Specs: Bore/Stroke: 89mm/79mm Pistons: 29mm Kameari (280g) Rods: 139.5mm Kameari (~575g) Crankshaft: Polished, Stock L28 Camshaft: .290 Duration / .490 Lift Valves: New valves (stock size) Upgraded springs and retainers CR: ~10.5 to 11:1 Now, time for some photographs! Here's an album with all the photos I've gotten from Eiji thus far. I'll update it as the build continues: http://imgur.com/a/Fyqtv ORIGINAL POST: Dear Forums, I've been a long time lurker of these forums (along with Classic Z Cars) and of the community, but just recently, I've decided it was time I popped my Z cherry and got involved. I own a '77 280z (Motor has EFI; Transmission has 4 Gears) I'm currently working on another L28 that I picked up (Carbed, N42 Head)) along with a 5-Speed, but due to my lack of knowledge regarding these motors (We are a family of Ford Mustang owners) I seek your help in order to make sure this build isn't a total disaster. To start off, hello; My name is Mike I am 20 years old and I'm a computer tech. This is my first engine rebuild, so experience is not really something I have in my corner. Luckily, my brother and my dad are both mechanics, but they decided to pretty much leave me to learn how to swim in the ocean with this build. My goals for this motor are pretty simple and straight forward, but I would still love to get some help from some of you more knowledgeable L-Series petrol heads. Let me start by saying that I am not power hungry. We have the pony cars for that. What I want is a responsive motor, not a powerful one. Engine Goals (Might get redefined as I learn more about these L-series motors) 1. I would like to hit 200HP at the crank (Although not necessary) 2. I want the motor to be naturally aspirated. 3. I love the look and sound of triple Weber carbs. 4. I don't think I need a stroker motor to produce a descent amount of power, so unless it's necessary, I'd rather not go there. Things that I am considering (Please correct me if I'm wrong!) 1. Balancing the Crank 2. Lighter, flat-top pistons (I would like to keep the stock 86mm size) 3. Stock valves look good enough! Probably just stay with those. 4. I've read a few posts where people mentioned using L24 rods. Why is that? Weight? 5. A Mild performance Cam with upgraded springs. As I mentioned above, I'm just learning about these motors, so your help is very much appreciated. I'm gonna need all the knowledge I can get. This is the motor: So it started with this Time to clean! So that's pretty much it so far. Cheers guys, and thanks a lot for the help! Not that it matters much, but here is the car:

Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.

I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.

I´m right now on the final stage of my complete engine rebuild. Before engine start I´m double checking the timing alignment. I however seem to miss the V shape mark on the sprocket(aftermarket OSK) which makes me a bit hesitant. Below pictures show the alignment as i sits right now, can anyone please feedback whether it´s aligned or not. Car is a 280z -75. Chain, cam and sprocket are new and the the marking down at the crank is aligned.

Hi: Doing some research and cannot find this; maybe it doesn't exist. Any stock pistons (flat-top or minimal dish) that will fit an L6 with roughly 30mm pin height in 86-88mm bore dia.? Thanks.

I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger needles and other components, have rebello bore them out, or go with an EFI system. I like the idea of EFI because I live in, and will most likely be going to college in a cold climate and starting the car is a difficult task. As I understand it, the engine was built with low compression by the PO for the eventual addition of a turbo later on (which I plan to do too, just a few years from now) and I'm told that adding a turbo to EFI is easier and more reliable to run than turbo+carbs. The PO also has a "manifold and actual rail and body for injection" that he is willing to give me a discount on should I go that route. So, I'm curious as to how difficult and costly it would be for me to make the switch from carbs to EFI, and whether or not the current carbs would be able to be modified to work with the current engine demands without a liberal amount of work. Also which would be the best in the long run for the eventual addition of a turbo? Thanks, Jack

I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable - Have it professionally done - quick linear throttle response I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it. Thanks,

Hey I'm located in socal. Looking for an rust free block And smooth shifting 5 speed near Southern California

Hi, I am planning to build a race car engine for my 280zx endurance Chumpcar racer. It's all amateur hobby racing and nothing professional, still it would suck very much if it breaks during a race. I am doing this 50% for power and 50% for reliability. I am a beginner hobby mechanic. I got all the OHC Nissan books My goals: - 100% for 10hours without blowing up several times a year. - Usable range 3500 - 7000 RPM (To keep cost down and keep some reliability) - 200HP crank (but 250 would be fantastic) Engine will consist of the following: - Megasquirt fuel only (can't do timing due to race regulations) - Race camshaft (Schneider 284-92F is a good candidate, 284/292 (236/244 @ 0.05"). 488/.504 lift) - MSA Headers - F54 block - N47 head (worth spending $650 for a Lonewolf porting?) - Some exhaust (2"?) I have a F54 block that comes with pistons but no head. This is what I plan to do: 1. Replace piston rings 2. Replace main and rod bearings 3. Replace all gaskets 4. New waterpump 5. New oilpump 6. New cam springs 7. New rocker arms 8. Should I get new pistons (block comes with pistons)? 9. Should I get a new Timing kit? Is there anything I should add to my todo list? Does the cam make sense? Is there something that is specially hard that I should leave to a professional? First time I ever mess with engine internals. I am not super tight on budget but forged pistons is way out of my budget. Many thanks

Hey guys, I just got my car back from the dyno and I was a bit underwhelmed with the results - 156hp and 161ft/lb at the wheels (curves with AFR attached). The long block was assembled by a pretty reputable builder with the following specs: Bored out L28 to 2.95L F54 block with a N47 head 11.3:1 CR 290° cam with 0.490" lift Then I came along and messed something up with the following: MSA 6-1 header into 2.5" exhaust MSD 6AL-2 programmable ignition box triggered by a 280zx dizzy Cannon intake manifold Weber DCOE40s 36mm chokes 160 main 160 air correction F2 emulsion tube 3.5 A/V 55F9 idle The timing curve was initially dialed in by the tuner to eliminate knock with the 94 octane that I delivered the car with. The dizzy is locked out at 35°BTDC and the timing map they arrived at is attached. After the 1st round of results, I asked them to run some higher octane to get in all the timing that I thought was left on the table to control the knock. With 108 octane the car didn't pick up any power from advancing the curve that was developed with the 94. I found that a bit odd, but not sure how you argue with the data. The dyno was an eddy brake Land and Sea Dynomite axle hub set up. Let me know what your thought are on where I could look next, or if you think something is really bottlenecking the output. From all the searching I've done, it seems like all the hardware should support 200+whp, but we're not even close. Thanks! L28 dyno.pdf

Looking to trade an N42 cylinder head for a P90 cylinder. N42 came off car that ran before it went into storage 15+ years ago. I really just need the head and the cam mounts, possibly rockers if they are in good shape as I be will getting a new cam, springs and valves anyway.