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Showing results for tags 'L28'.
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Hello everyone. I'm going to jump right in. I just installed a new motor. Fully stripped of emissions except charcoal canister. Cold start delete. Bcddd deleted and plugged. EGR delete. All new vacuum lines. New plugs E3's /wires MSD 7mm. New fuel pump (95psi) regulated to 35psi on rail, and filters before and after. Clean grounds. New battery, starter, alternator. Clean connections on injectors. All injectors were bench tested and contacts cleaned w/ new gaskets. Vacuum tested @ 17. New Fidanza flywheel installed with exedy clutch. The issue: Car starts right u
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Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested. -
i have a n42 block and a p79 head, i plan on using a 280zx turbo manifold and a protunerz 90mm intake manifold. however as for the actual building the motor i’m kinda clueless and wanna know some info on how to properly build it and what parts i should use for it. My goal is 300 ish whp and around the same torque, i want it to be a daily street car that i can still have fun with. I live in cali so i gotta go through smog and i want to know what i need to do for it to pass. Any info helps and any recommendations work. Thank you
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I have recently purchased a stock 1975 280Z and would like to replace the 4 speed with a 5 speed from a 240sx with the .76 5th gear final drive ratio. With the overdrive it would seem to me that I should replace the rear end gears with something lower such as 3.70 or 3.90. Any recommendations? I have done some of the tire diameter/gear ration calculations and it appears that I can get close to about 2600 rpm at 65 mph with the 3.90s. Is this about right ? If I go with the 3.70s the rpms would be down to about 2356 rpm at 65mph, would this be overdriving the stock l28 too much?
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So I am installing an RT Diff Mount with the Energy Suspension PU top mount (GM style) bushing. I am also keeping the L28 drive train. Has anyone done this mod and corrected for the lower drive train angle that occurs with the RT mount? Have you shimmed the mustache bar in order to return the driveshaft to diff angle back to factory spec? I am using the AZC mustache bar and was thinking of reusing the factory mustache bar washers (minus the rubber) to shim the bar down approx 1/4" to get the rear of the diff lower and correct the angle. I know the RT diff mount was originally desi
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So I found an '82 280zx in beautiful condition for having sat out in snow, rain, sleet, hail, sun, etc. for almost 12 years. I contacted the owner and he told me he had no plans of restoring it and will give it to me for $1500. There's almost no surface rust and the engine still runs after all this time. I am planning on completely restoring it then in the future modding it as I make it through college and stuff. There is a slight misfiring issue whenever it starts, but the owner says he thinks it's spark plugs, but to be safe i'm replacing the spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel filter, oil
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After much thought on whether or not I wanted to create a full thread of my first 240z build I have decided that it would be worth it in the long run and nice to look back to. I will have about a year to catch up with then I will continue to update as the build goes on. Backstory: I bought this Miata when I was a senior in high school. I wanted to see if I was truly passionate about cars and if I enjoyed working on them/driving them. This car was a blessing and a curse, I quickly found out that I loved cars and all of my money would be taken by them. Fast forward and I had
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Because I haven't seen any videos talking about lash pad sizing, cam degreeing, degree wheels, or TDC on an L28, I figured I'd take a shot at it. Please excuse my video production qualities or my lack of expertise. Like i said, just wanted to take a shot at these subjects. Please comment if i've missed something big or small. thanks joe lash pad sizing.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQSf2TinWc4&t=215s TDC short block....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvcXhv-HZ_0 TDC validation with head installed ....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09AJpZ9z0
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVWOfaVyyBTcOek6TEn4R8A?view_as=subscriber https://www.facebook.com/blytheliferacing/
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I am looking go find suggestions on diag for a fuel issue with my 1977 280z. It's as if all 6 injectors are clogged (though highly unlikely). I have fuel pressure at the rail but I was thinking that the BCM could be the most viable answer (not commanding the injectors to fire) I have spark at every cylinder new pump and filters. Seasoned S30 mechanics any suggestions?? I don't have a lot of diag experience and appreciate any input (except the negative BS).
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Hello, I had the L28 and 5-speed from my ‘81 280ZX swapped into my ‘78 280Z and the budget shop could not get the pedal linkage to correctly connect to the throttle body linkage. There is wood pieces at the firewall (exterior) keeping the linkage in place and the pedal is pretty close to the floor without much motion. I don’t seem to have a pedal stopper to adjust in the S30 so I don’t know what to do to get the pedal to have full range of motion. Has anybody encountered this problem and know the solution? I couldn’t find anything online... thanks!
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Selling a few parts I have all located in San Diego. Just took apart a running 450hp L28et so I upgrading a few parts now. 1) $150 Fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator combo deal. Will work for barbed or o-ring style injectors. Will come with adapters for o-ring 2) $200 shaven and clean webbed intake manifold. Cut off the web part and semi polished. Egr all closed up for a clean look 3) $250 Turbo exhaust manifold with welded in external wastegate flange. Had a Tial 38mm wastegate. 4) $150 Tial 38mm wastegate silver. 5) $275 Deka 5 -
This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but the -
Looking for some advice before I dive head first into the engine bay. It is a 1977 280z pretty stock minus headers So I had accidentally left my head lights on. So, of course, my battery died. I tried to jump start the car and it cranked and smelled of gas but wouldn't turn over. I figured I might have flooded the engine for trying to much so I let the car sit for about 24 hours. I brought a new battery (tested and all so I know it works) and it was the same problem. The engine cranks and I smell gas but it won't actually turn over. The ignition coil has spark. The distributor has sp
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1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal pa
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Hello all....My name is Austin and I have so many questions! So, I'm sorry if some or most of this has been covered but there are 500+ pages of threads just talking about L28's and have not found what I'm looking for, so... I'm gonna had another! I recently acquired a 1973 Datsun 240z with the original L24 & 4speed. I had a stock long block rebuild of the L24 quoted by a shop near me, which came out to be roughly $5000 ($1700 in parts). Which is more than I want to pay for a stock rebuild (150hp maybe). So I have decided to entertain the possibility of an L28 build -
I want to build a 3.0l for trackday use. L28 crank 81mm light strong rods light pistons I want over 300hp this is my first Datsun but i have many years of engine builds. So now I want some tips of what is the best bang for the buck to build a 300+ hp engine
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Hello everyone! Im new to the Hybrid Z forums so I thought I would start a build thread for my build on my 1975 280z. Current car: 1975 Datsun 280z Mods: Subaru Power Steering conversion, Full Eibach suspension, aftermarket swaybar + full polyurethane bushing conversion, Toyota front disc conversion, aftermarket A/C installed, 240z driveline, (im probably missing some things so I'll update it as I go.) I have roughly 20 years of receipts of all the work done to the car. I just recently acquired the car so everything listed above was done by the previous owner. Now here is my p -
UPDATE: 2/14/15 After a rather long hiatus, the build returns with updates! As some of you may know, I decided to go with the professionals with this build. Looking at some local shops around my area, most notably Rebello Racing, and also some other shops across the country, I've decided to send my dear L28 out to Eiji Hosomi at Datsun Spirit Inc. (https://datsunspirit.com/) There are three main goals that I wanted my motor to achieve. 1. Speed > Power. I want my motor to run like a hot knife through butter. It needs to be quick and very responsive. Power is nice, but a qui
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Looking for l28 oil pan. I prefer if someone would contact me from SoCal that way I wont have to pay for shipping.
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I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
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I´m right now on the final stage of my complete engine rebuild. Before engine start I´m double checking the timing alignment. I however seem to miss the V shape mark on the sprocket(aftermarket OSK) which makes me a bit hesitant. Below pictures show the alignment as i sits right now, can anyone please feedback whether it´s aligned or not. Car is a 280z -75. Chain, cam and sprocket are new and the the marking down at the crank is aligned.
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Hi: Doing some research and cannot find this; maybe it doesn't exist. Any stock pistons (flat-top or minimal dish) that will fit an L6 with roughly 30mm pin height in 86-88mm bore dia.? Thanks.
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I recently bought my first Z, a 1972 240z with a pre-done L28 swap that, according to the PO, is stroked to 3.0 liters with forged internals and an upgraded cam. It's been a great car, however it runs on the original L24 carbs which have trouble supplying the necessary fuel throughout the rev range, and completely maxes out at 5,000 rpm. It is frustrating having an engine with so much potential for decent power that is held back by the carbs, so I'm curious as to what direction I should go with this project. I read on some long-winded article that I can either modify the carbs with larger need
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I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod. I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. What would be my best option for an engine swap? Things I am looking for in this car. -Street legal in New York -200-300hp -very reliable -pref
