flibuoy

What color is like asking if someone likes soup.. But...since you asked...I like the silvers, light and dark on new 350Z and think the darker would be great. My wife says no silver or grey and I can't get her to leave. I am torn between the new Ford deep metallic red, (ditto Mazda) and the and the new BMW metallic blueish green. True, BRG (British racing green) is timeless and have never seen it look bad on a car. BMW racing orange is a great color for Z ....was (is?) one in Dallas area that was massaged a bit and looked great with black center mesh wheels. But somebody above said if Z is straight and done well then ANY color works. Bon appetite john

Russ, does the term "blind leading the blind" ring a bell? I was tempted to respond via e-mail, but thought it might be better to give others a chance to add/subtract to my response to your questions. 1. There are at least 3-4 combinations of transmission outputs/computer requirements/speedo needs that you are dealing with. The JTR available book on TPI swapping does address the solutions in part for your specific combinations. It does advise, wisely, not to eliminate the VSS to your computer as it is needed for proper coast down etc. You can bypass with mixed results. 2. The major catalog speed merchants have pictures/dimensions on the electric speedos. I plan to swap both the tach (mine works..darn) and speedo to matching set..probably Autometer. This takes out the extra cost/complexity of having both mechanical and electronic outputs. Elsewhere in this list is info on that, fitting is no brainer I guess. 3. I have since learned the small 305 wheel works on the one piece seal engines ok. I plan to use the small clutch (10.5") and again plan to task my wee tires to be weak link. As for price, as little as possible for a good one is my immediate read on that question. 4. Got me here...IF it needs to be moved and you used the JTR style crossmember...maybe you will need a drill bit (you already have the rest) to move it a bit. Somebody here has that answer I am sure. 5. Price to expect for your transmission?...similar to reverse of above...as much as possible. Ebay is a possibility. I would sell it locally (no shipping) with no reserve price and hope for the best. Hope this helps open up further discussion/reference for us both john

The link above from Lone Star 1 is very informative if anyone would like to look. Has lots of LT1/LS1 info. Nice looking Z with LS1 is pictured in project car section. There are a number of apllications that use the 153 tooth, and the 305 is supposed to be lightest of them. Yes, it does stand to reason that a 153 is lighter than a 168 I suppose. I have e-mailed Mark at the above link and will let everyone know what service he provides if it is noteworthy one way or another. john

Appreciate the input so far, looking forward to more. The reason I am looking for an LT1 is I can get a ready to drop in engine, low miles etc. The T5 probably wasn't too awful common in the full size sedans. I do want aluminum heads for weight, not HP. The LT1 will get a little steeper cam and get dropped in. The T5 is light, compact and cheap. Even IF one cratered on me I can get another and kick myself for not using heavier, bulkier and more expensive T56. The wee tires should be the weak link and save the rest of the hard parts. My first Z swap was a warm 355 and 700R4 with had iron Dart heads and a too mild cam. It ran an Erson that was only marginally more radical than a 350/350 HP. Always wanted more cam because the light body certainly doesn't need a lot of low end grunt. I have noted somewhere that the 305 TPI flywheel is lighter than most and this would be my first choice on the LT1/T5 boltup if it'll work. Thanks for the lead on LT1 locally, can use more. john

I have a chance to buy a complete T5 including clutch assembly w/slave, flywheel etc. I am trying to locate a late LT1 engine and want to be sure there is no "gotchas" in the boltup. Please don't chide me about not using a T56. Budget and wee back tires took care of that decision. Anyone in Houston area have lead on good low miles complete LT1? john

Now and then there seems to be some aluminum LT1 heads for sale and are priced budget friendly. Does the reverse flow keep you from using them on earlier, "normal" flow block/water pump? Anyone know the combustion chamber volume/or compression with flattops? thanks, building light and budget, john

I think this started as a header topic. I am probably not only member who would like to hear results of both these headers...the CC2/CC3(?) I am particularly interested in the slightly angled back aspect (no pun intended)if they clear ok that would help ease that hard 90 degree initial bend close to collector. Must of us know the Hooker block headers work (just). How about some feedback for us on these after motors are in? Also, has anyone had the Hedman blockhugger type in with success? This is a BIG issue in a successful/enjoyable swap. john