flibuoy

at throttle body since bracket crosses there from alt to a/c thanks

Anyone using the TPI in a 240-280 JTR position? I would like an idea of hood clearance as close as possible..a good approximation will work if no measure available. I plan to use LT1 however the clearance is important from older TPI to hood as it gives me information on bracketry clearance on a couple aftermarket units designed for LT1. While I am here...am I reinventing the wheel again?....recent LT1 bracketry products that might help? I have searched the forums and found some information...but it seems like lately there is more LT1 stuff out there... john

In the first hybrid 240Z I had a 360-370 horsepower 355 sbc and used the 700R4. Bought car "already done" so I moved engine way back (not JTR) and replaced the 350 auto with the 700R4. Then rewired to JTR book...took out all the coolers/relays/selenoids etc that were patches. The 700R4 had a lockup modification by Darryl Young so it locked instantly going into 4th and did not lock in lower gear. I drove it 4 years as my daily driver. Great combination...was a IROC trans and shifted WOT at 5800 very solidly due to valving differences. Never had problem with car, as reliable as wife's Camry. So....why am I building my second with a T5? john

I have the strong feeling that some others have completed the stock wiring adaptation of the LT1 to the Z. I am also certain it was a big job. I am midst of a LT1/T5 swap into an early 260, so no automatic to contend with, and speedo has mechanical drive. Would someone who has successfully rebopped the stock LT1 wiring harness be willing to share the fruits of the hard work as a valid starting point for others like myself? A couple of above posts are just great and are indicative of lots of available talent. ....john

I just changed mine and started the old knock em out with a hammer routine...I think they had been in there since 1974...borrowed a pickle fork and they still took a series of hard hits to get loose. No way I could've gotten them off with hammer, never mind reuse them afterwards. Do the right thing and buy a fork...so I can borrow it next time. john

very useful, maybe not tonight...but one day there will be question and that sheet will have the answer...thanks john

bought mine off Ebay with flywheel, clutch assembly, slave, driveshaft and shifter. They are not uncommon on there. Also any larger wrecking yard can do a search for you on their network or refer you. john

Since this site does not usually flame people for dumb stuff I will let you know what I did...O'Reilly's is like Autozone etc and they had a generic piece of crap chromed plastic mirror that has enough adjustment to work on either side so that you can have matched set of crappy mirrors. They do look at home and are almost weightless. I tried the same source black "accordian" looking mirrors but they has so little adjustment that they mounted at about a 45 degrees up angle. Upside, aside from cheap and available, is that the mount is small enough so if I change in future there is no big deal in covering old holes. john

I support the above opinion that 1.6 rockers are a tuning aid. They are not a particularly magical big HP increase aside from gains due to slightly reduced friction. Manufactureres are quite happy people are buying them like they are an easy cam swap. Tuners often use both 1.5 and 1.6 on same engine to max the particular application exhaust/intake needs. I have only limited experience myself..but after $ and time to change to 1.6 some years ago I could NOT tell difference on street. A little more effort and about same $ will get a cam that WILL make changes..better or worse john

Thanks to the info gleaned from this great site I recently installed the Miata seats...mine are tan leather and are great color match to my dyed interior panels. If you do the swap then I can attest that slotting seatpan instead of large hammer route is the way to go. I used a hammer to "save time" and slotting with cutoff wheel or similar would have been way faster/easier. On passenger seat(since I had 2 sets of trashed z seats) I used 2 non-adjustable runners and pinned them with a through bolt nearly all the way back to save weight. They seem to be about same height...close anyway, to Z. Feel/look a lot nicer. Mine were from salvage yard, delivered for $150. Can you say win/win? john

The transmission...with Camaro 15-17 degree bellhousing is enroute....the tilt removed at mount area by the casting at mount area makes perfect sense. Perhaps I woulda coulda shoulda waited til I had it in my hands and looked...a picture from rear might have helped here....thanks everyone, I'll keep you posted. Dan I appreciate the "apology" type response. I probably did seem like a dufus....john

it is a small thing...but a 2 liter plastic bottle from soft drinks....full...works just dandy as a "block" for sanding the flare area of stock Z body wheelwells. Way better than hand only...just wrap sandpaper around bottle, hold with hand and go for it john

Murphy was an optimist

Thanks for the idea of cutting....I was concerned about making the bend in that heavy stock. Now to find power hacksaw....as far as bellhousing etc reply...this is my second swap and I have 3 JTR books, one for 10 years and they do not address the angled mount other than to show it exists john

Thanks for the replies so far, looking forward to more. On the dye...I just refinished my entire interior (less the diamond vinyl)from that spoiled orange peel tan to a light tan. I used the following: remove from car what was removeable, scrub with detergent and brush, rinse, just before spraying I wiped a wet coat of MEK on to soften the plastic surface, sprayed 6-10 light coats. Looks great if I must say so myself. Durabilty is the issue of course...but then my new Camry vinyl leaves a mark when I hit it with a crowbar. Used 6 cans. I considered the homemade carpeting, but really have a thing about unbound edging and the wheelwell area looked more than a little challenging. john

ditto on article for me please if it is on the T5 and not the T56...john flibuoy@aol.com

I purchased a JTR kit on E-Bay recently and therefore would like to use that transmission mount with the T5 I purchased. The Camaro tilts the mount 15-17 degrees...the trans mount has horizontal mount area. Has anyone simply reheated/shaped the area between the two exhaust humps? It looks like it would work but wonder about driveshaft angles since this would seem to raise rear of trans quite a lot. I will invent the wheel if someone hasn't already john

I am asking for input on the "deluxe" carpet kits that are offered....they are supposed to cover the usual plus the diamond vinyl. I imagine most come from same source ultimately. How is fit? Did it help with noise,A/C etc. It is either that or a redye for my "tan" vinyl which now looks like a rotten orange peel color. john

Has anyone used the rear dump LT1 cast iron exhaust manifold? Fit? I know the arguments both ways. I used block huggers on my other hybrid and am toying with idea of cast this time IF they fit nicely without machining...otherwise coated block huggers get the nod. john

I welcomed the above discussion because it is tough one to search. I am now looking for 5.7 LT1 from an F body (Camaro or Firebird) and had discarded the LT1 Corvette, maybe wrongly, because of the accessory mounting. I am going to use A/C, alternator, no power steering or air pump. I wish to avoid aftermarket due to cost, admittedly the Mena place is first class, Mike has done great job in the niche market. I toured it years ago and was impressed with him and his products. Cost is a major factor, if it does make it go better I don't buy it. After all that....my question is straightforward....F body or Corvette brackets? Will EITHER go in without going to aftermarket for parts? john

On my first Z I just cleaned up that joint well, put some bondo forced into crack. It is not permanent perhaps...i only drove the car 4 years without recracking. This car got deluxe treatment of JB Weld...and primer. If one had enough courage, and no finish paint my neigbor suggested light remelt of solder used at factory...john

I used a spray can of "cast iron" either Krylon or Rustoleum, forget which...john

Ebay has T56 on auctions ....most of the time there is a selection....just type in T56 john

Having run both the full length and block huggers on a sbc/z I can say 2 points are apparent to me. 1.Starter heat soak is an issue with full length. 2. Full length HP advantage was never apparent on street. A racer need not worry about speed bumps, but a street car is more lovable with the shorties. john

I am quite short in height, and have adjusted to that fact. In a like manner, after years of stock and hybrids, I adapted to exhaust fumes with one window down at some speeds. If you start the car then I think you will have some fumes at some speeds. The best to hope for is good sealing minimizing it to point that you can see through it to drive. john