flibuoy

I am reasonably confident I got 2 dead Optisparks in a row...one at least had either high or low...this one is dead...not to mention 2 stripped holes for cap reverse torks....have a known near new one enroute.... No, engine was only opened for inspection and closed, pan and valve covers. A comment on Street and Performance harness....great for automatic or 6 speed with VSS, asked for Park Neutral delete...did not do it...asked for a smog delete...did not get it...asked for VSS delete, did not get it, asked for no fuel pump/oil pressure interface due to using Z wiring...did not do it....called twice for "tech" after using all material on the site...one admitted he did not know anything...the other argued my T5 has electric speedo etc...anyway on 4th-5th call Mark the owner took time to give me # of outside guy that builds them...HE was helpful. Remember they charge an extra hundred $ due to "superior tech support and product quality" So I should have sent it back but feels better to complain. The mounts for A/C and alternator are great and probably still the only ones that work. Mark is a real success story, but very used to BIG $ projects now. I am off on trip til later next week....maybe it will heal itself John

Tim and Guy I appreciate the quick responses...but those items have ALL been gone over...yes the aftermarket uses an oil pressure switch, which is installed on tree with Datsun sender. I have a Holley 100PSI pump through stainless...no leaks...vexing because even the fellow who built this harness for Street Performance (outside, sideline vendor)was helpful and we, over the phone, retraced a lot of the possible problems in real time. The grounding(s), positive feeds are all good by multimeter. I keep having nagging feeling the two Optisparks ("rebuilt") from AutoZone are bad...one even LOOKED bad. Of course I learn slow, but learn well...did NOT reinstall waterpump when last one went on. Hate to spring for new Delco...particularly when problem has been elusive. A loaner PCM would help I guess...troubleshooting has been narrowed to fault at PCM, harness, connectors, Optispark...or as they call it on Chevy sites...Opticrap, the coil, the coil module etc or underinflated left rear tire. Anyway, back to my pressing desire to express I know not what I do...John

My 94 LT-1 is still a no start....second harness/second Optispark, seems to troubleshoot OK as far as my ability takes me anyway. Street and Performance harness with VATS bypass etc. I am looking for a real wizard in area to go through it. Plan B is to ask who would like a bargain on a low miles LT-1 with accessory mounts for Hybrid Z..less computer and harness...... If you are in Houston area and know a for sure, honest to goodness person please let me know here or privately. thanks John

One of the FEW satisfactory dealings I have had with vendors was with Darrell Young, Northbridge CA...sorry do not have site or Phone any longer. In my case I was using a 1989 Z-28 700-R4 in my first Hybrid Z and he fixed me up with a easily installed setup that locked converter automatically, immediately, in 4th only AND it unlocked automatically too...simple and several years ago was under $120. He could have sold me a shift kit too but he instead advised the Z-28 would shift plenty hard in light body...he was right! I suggest anyone interested in the 350, 400 or 700 call him to see if he can help, he sure knew what I needed. John

I used a flywheel on my LT-1 from a 305 89 Camaro, lighter than the 350 flywheel, with my 89WC t-5

Sorry, was not meant as criticism of the choice...I stated my personal reasons for picking T-5, I merely meant to point out that there may be alternatives to big $ (which almost always work given enough $) John

I choose to use a T-5 with my LT-1 and used a flywheel from a 305 which is 16# instead of around #24. Someone should know if it would work with your T56 as well. John

I should have mentioned that I finally went to a Street&Performance harness after having difficulty with my modified original. I regret spending the money. They are about a $100 over others and harness was very generic, I was specific about manual/no emissions etc but got a one size fits all that actually will have taken about as much time that modifiying original did. No excuse and the $100 was rationized at sale by the "customer support". The original went well but I ended up with couple bad connectors and a main plug that I buggered up. It is difficult to get a solid base for harness mod...and still use O2/MAF sensors etc. Wire ends are a problem as GM didn't stock/sell and I never did find a source for them elsewhere.. The VATS is a sticky issue because nobody seems to have all the info in one place...I had bought a bypass ....but of course it was also on the new harness. I have seen the Painless harness and it is at LEAST as good. My suggestion is to find source online to modify your original or do it yourself after satisfied you have answers. The VATS bypass is an E-bay $26 part. John

uh...well...errr no sorta no seems the harness has to have the oil sensor....surprise Street and Performance is shipping a tee so I can use Datsun and GM senders, I called first before trying. Oh well...did get driveshaft cut, balanced and back in an hour or so...19" center to center @ $146=$7.68 an inch, had new machined yoke and new universal too...so a bargain.

I appreciate the response so far. Bill et al, this should help: Street and Performance 2005 catalog page 52-53 #3 on part 0000000, also the coil bracket near bottom of list is needed, plus....here goes more $... add the EGR blockoff shown. Ebay has blockoffs too, but S&P is really pretty....where nobody can see it. I bought the alternator and compressor from them as price was competitive for one stop convenience. The bar lengths they can do before shipping IF you get their attention the first time....otherwise they will do it on your second call. Note: for those who do not research and have a non-LT-1....well....find out for yourself that these do not fit. Bill, I sent pictures as you requested in your e-mail. Notice the removed oil cooler and knock sensor location. The small alternator is necessary. My last swap was a semi JTR in that engine was about an inch forward, but these mounts seem they would be OK in either Scarab or JTR or in between. I got the natural finish which seems to fit with intake etc appearance, edges seemed a little sharp. I am a driver not a polisher. The radiator is the JTR available and recommended Moline. John

I wanted fuel injection and manual in this swap, my first was a very warm carbed 355 w/700R4, which I drove daily for 5 years. IF you need airconditioning and an LT-1...like here in SE Texas, then Street and Performance in Mena AR is the only game in town. Big Phil learned the hard way, as I did. Have long bar shortened to 7" by them and use that on compressor, and 9" on alternator. It relocates coil too and they sell that "kit" as well. Then there is the pulley spacer "kit" for LT-1 from an F Body. Expect a premium of about $1300 unless you get crazy in the catalog. Then there is the A/C itself....Hot Rod Air or one like it has the whole deal from around $1100. Of course the fuel injection didn't change that upwards. So....if a car here is not airconditioned in this climate it is better to walk. The injection related time and expense over a great carb setup like my last HybridZ is a subjective discussion. I like turning key on and forgetting about various little things like how many times to pump cold/warm/hot...and have all but forgotten what a choke is. Economy? Well if I drive the car some 68 million miles I may break even with fuel saved/money spent. Some of the expense was erring on caution side...you know...put new distributor in while easy to get to...oh...remove water pump first so may as well get one of those...and LT-1 parts like this are way more $ then the 1st generation stuff. Harness....well you CAN do your own IF you can get all the CORRECT info and just take your time studying/executing the wiring deletes and jumpers. Oh, don't forget about VATS....does it not start? or start and shut off? after 10 seconds or 30 seconds?...does it control fuel pump relay or enable injector signal? Of course you don't have to move hood latch with LT-1, and that saves you a couple hours... you can't figure out pin 25 on red connector in that short a time.The LT-1 will probably be down a bit on total horsepower from my last one...but driveability and response should even the score in street driving. Applicable to carbed but essential to LT-1/LS-1 donor: Get a running and complete engine/transmission combination, get all the wiring, all the stuff. A few extra bucks up front can save major problems and expenses. Common to carbed and injected JTR swaps...the van radiator suggested is fine, and inexpensive, but must be lowered a 1/2" or more to clear cap. The Taurus 2 speed fan is a gonzo piece and cheap enough...but figure out a way to control both speeds automatically and with A/C....can't have juice to both low and high speed at same time. I used the "weak" WC T-5 because I am not gonna run big sticky tires. I like the light weight/small size/shifter right location/stock speedo combination. The 89 IROC 700R4 shifted plenty hard at WOT as advised it would by Darryl Young and he suggested no shift kit but did sell me a nifty inexpensive kit to engage lockup in 4th and uses no computer. But I did miss catching the right gear to listen to pipes...so in goes the T-5. This site put me on to the great solution of Ford pickup master cylinder and hose for the stock slave. Slick. A good example of a better mousetrap than the JTR book gives. Why the update? Well, I have been a member for a number of years and just finished a search here. I realized that there was about an equal mix of good solid info and incorrect or incomplete info. No matter what swap you are contemplating with a Z it is essential to read up on it before buying first part or tool. The JTR book is a good start, particularly with carbed Chev engine. The TPI book is NOT very good for TPI, poor for LT-1, but it is information and should be looked at. They do have some parts that fix integration problems. This site is good if searched and thoroughly so. Zcar is a better source for info on Z related wiring etc and other information not concerning swaps. Camaro.com and others like it are great sources for engine info. Anyway I am firing the thing up tomorrow....sound confident? I am because I have had 3 no starts already and believe I have caught last of my mistakes. As soon as it crackles for a few seconds it is off to paint, back for interior which is already dyed, new rugs, all the insulation etc to make my Miata seats a home. Do us all a favor and take Z related questions to Zcar.com and encourage those completing/completed swaps to post here. I have noticed a distinct drop in number of swap related questions and answers. I might be wrong or just get frustrated at times, but it seems posts are becoming repetitive and often not taken to closure when new or difficult. JTR is only a source of part of the good info....you are the rest...like Big Phil, Tim240Z and many others that materially aided in my swap(s). Thanks for all the bandwidth....John

OK, so far we determined that the tach is adjustable, as clearly shown and discussed in the JTR book. I used the 240 tach with a "normal" distributor in my last 350 swap for 5 years with no problem..very accurate after adjustment and almost perfect using the suggested "rough" setting. But this question still seems to beg an answer on which wire to best use for output from the LT1. PCM or coil? Mine happens to be a 94. Also reading both the JTR Datsun swap and JTR fuel injection swap books there seems to be a need for an additional resistor in the circuit for 260/280 tachs. Somebody out there has a definitive answer I think... My current swap is early 260/LT1/T-5 and about ready to head for paint shop after driveshaft is cut....incidentally mine is WAY back and driveshaft is only 19.5" center to center! I'd like to get tach working. I do have the swap pretty well photographed as it progressed, so if there is specific details you would like a shot of I probably have it...my version. John

Chime in here with my experience...I bought a scarab type swap in a 240Z..and drove it for a couple months and elected to go to the JTR for a couple reasons. The handling part was not the motivator for me..I am not, and don't expect to become a good enough driver, to discern the diff between 49/51 and 51/49 AND this was a daily driver on STREETS. The change was worth 10 times the time and effort it tool because the long tubes no longer heat soaked the starter...the block huggers allowed lots of cooling past starter and car never needed a cool down in the succeeeding 4 years. That meant the patch of Ford type solenoid could be removed and less wiring connections. The move back and down let me put decent size droptop air cleaner on even with an aftermarket intake. The move back allowed a great fan shroud that allowed this driver to have a/c and idle in Houston traffic. This in turn let me take out oil cooler, trans cooler and extra fan in front of radiator. Was it worth it to me...you bet. After 4 more years after selling the first hybrid I am building my second...in JTR. IMHO and personal experience a street car is harder to build in JTR but was easier to live with and enjoy when done. Is it the only solution...nope... john

I agree the subject has been pretty well covered. In fact I posted a fairly long one myself last year. I stand by my opinion that IF the radiator is in good shape, IF the pump is working right, IF the fan is well shrouded (as the Ford 2 speed is) then the car should cool pretty well. I suspect some problems may be result of weak pump or engine tune basics. I do not believe airflow through the bay is a problem. Look at a late Camaro bay for example: if you drop a wrench it will never get to the ground but they cool just fine. The panel under engine is probably a good thing at highway speeds to keep pressure from building inside bay and thereby slowing flow through radiator. At speeds above 35 or so cooling should never be an issue(eliminates the fan and shrouding as culprit) without an underlying problem with flow of water or tuning of mixture, timing. My old one had 4 core copper radiator, cutdown (way down) fan blades, A/C, and lots of HP, and cooling was never an issue in Houston traffic. This one will be aluminum Camaro/Taurus 2 speed and expect even better performance from the LT1. Interestingly when I put a good shroud on the old one I could then remove trans cooler/oil cooler/extra heater core that were all fixes by previous owner. john

All you lucky guys who are not living in a hot/humid area can just go read something useful to you in another post. I had gotten a quote from Vintage Air dealer who wanted $1900 to install their basic large capacity A/C. and this was using MY new Sanden compressor and mounts. The car is an early 260Z/LT1 and is in the semi gutted stage of my swap so installation couldn't have gotten MUCH easier for him. I knew the basic parts should be about $1000, the rest labor. So I made it very easy for him and decided to use a HOT Rod Air unit and install it myself. This morning I went by Hot Rod Air (they seldom have walkins so I called first) where they manufacture the components for catalog sales and ship to dealers. My reaction was everything was way better looking/quality feel then the catalog suggested. I bought the biggest evaporator...a 4 outlet plus defrost and all the stuff normally in the kit with exception of the compressor and vent outlets. I also substituted a trinary switch to cycle off fan when not needed as well as protect system by shutting off compressor as a binary switch does, a late type 24x12 condensor that is supposed to be very efficient, a back exit cover for the compressor (returnable with no charge at all if not needed), a couple wiring kits, a roll of double sided insulation and the optional 3 knob control panel. Even with the upgrades and extras it came to $868. So, I made the Vintage Air guy's life easier AND will pay myself over $1000 for the 2 day install. I will farm out the actual swaging of hoses after they are cut to fit and ends selected (included in kit portion). For you two speed Ford fan users I copped out and decided to have only one speed wired at a time with plugs on both speeds to allow easy change to low or high. Will run low until conditions of the season warrant going to high speed. I could use a switch inside to do same but think it is a waste of wires and a hazard if wife drives. David Stutts is the owner and he waited on me and filled order himself as the staff was between two shows...in fact he was leaving for Pidgeon(?) Forge TN show right after we finished our business....that is customer service...in fact he built the control panel on the spot for me as it was not at shop and will ship when dry at no cost. Anyway this turned out to be a plug for Hot Rod Air, but intended as a DIY and save $. I'll ride in comfort and should more than recoup cost at sale somewhere well into the future. Incidentally the entire setup, with compressor, seems to weigh less than what the old York and bracket weighed, probably about 30-35 pounds. john

I am in Clear lake area at midpoint of second HybridZ. But let's take it off the list and email direct for phone # etc. I am impressed....sounded like our bros in Bay Area CA....john

Phil the intake looks good. It is a little more centered in front of radiator than I had planned, just to save a cut or did you have another reason? I owe you bigtime since your guidance and experience with the LT1 install pitfalls has saved me time and money. I am staying a little behind your progress and always getting ideas. The S&P mounts with your adjuster bar measurements worked great etc. I moved the battery and mounted ECU in the hole it left. The fan shroud looks great....IMO the most important part of good streetable swap. john

I have done the carbed and am now finishing an LT install in my second hybrid. Physically no difference in mounts etc. You will have issues with the late transmission talking to speedometer, they are covered in the JTR TPI swapping book and parts are available through them to resolve. Can't help you there...my first was earlier 700R4 and this one is a 5 speed. The only solution I had to mounting alternator and compressor was to cough up over $700 to Street and Performance in Mena Arkansas for their setup. These mounts require moving coil to lower right front of engine and they happily sell you the adapter needed too. Takes the small alternator and Sanden 508 compressor. An engine driven fan is really not an option...but no big deal. I am using low buck Camaro aluminum radiator and 2 speed fan from Ford. A high pressure pump with return is needed. I am trying a lifetime replacement Ford part that is very quiet and relatively cheap. I am still confident the LT1 is great choice, but if I had done a earlier carbed swap I would have been driving at least 4 months and $1500 sooner. with less bald spots from scatching. BigPhil on this list has a detailed breakout of what worked for him and I will help out as where possible ....I have about a hundred photos if you get stuck or curious. Wiring is similar to JTR book IF you build or buy a stand-alone harness for engine. Approach ready to learn and you will probably live. john

Tim, workmanship is all there, so my opinion is that if you like them they are just right john

Tim, I (and probably others) would like the info on your radiator hoses...numbers if you have them... and the routing of smaller hoses since I noticed there is no LT1 tee in top hose. I deleted my LT1 factory oil cooler. The top hose from F body LT1 seems to work ok in mine(with T), but haven't a bottom yet.For you that are starting, or thinking of starting, a swap of any kind these are the details wherein lies the devil. Anyone else care to chime in on hoses/routing etc, or does this need a separate posting? john

It sounded like you were thinking weight as well as RPM in the first post. By the time you hang a turbo or supercharger a good bit of the weight advantage would be lost. Now that is a neat engine, having put one in an Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite a long time ago. It was light years beyong the stock 948 cc. I do doubt the swap would be worthwhile in the much heavier Z. The Ford 302 or a short stroke Chev will wind awfully tight if built right from beginning, without much "trick" stuff. Keep us all posted if you do the 215....always interesting stuff going on. john

Mike how about sharing with the list which alternator and car so we can all benefit from your solution? john

Glad to hear SOMEBODY has the flowtechs and even happier to see that they are working out/sound good. I had bought set of 2 1/2 in/out and they are awaiting some exhaust john

Just out of curiousity I took the advice and searched "carbon fiber hood". I have no personal interest of any kind in them incidentally...and got zero returns. So, even if I had gotten a hit or two they, by definition, are not necessarily the latest information available from HybridZ...time and members march on. The response, and I hesitated to even respond to the post, "do a search" can be a great suggestion but at best is only part of a needed answer. I often use the search function and it is an invaluable tool that should be used first, but members should not be dismissed to search function participation only. We can be thin skinned even if we are thick headed enough to want to put a V8 in a Z. IMHO john

I just gave up and followed advice from others on the HybridZ and installed the Street and Performance brackets. They are in the catalog around page 52. Big Phil recommenmded changing the 10" adjuster bar to a 7.5 and using it on A/C side and the 9" on alt side. You need to move coil to lower passenger side...they have that adapter too. Plan on spending around $700 unless you get the alt and compressor from them too...add $400+ Yes it is very pricey for somebody like me that made do in past. That LT1 loves $$$. On plus side is they fit great...might even have 7.5" and a 8" bar...but 9" seems to give better idler angle. They are really nice pieces...mine are unpolished ...fit and look great. Hurt to spend more than I paid for engine! john