flibuoy

I don't recall a discussion on that brand of block huggers. I do know if it is in JTR setback that Hookers fit nicely and are now in my ongoing second Hybrid. I went through the cutting/grinding routine with a generic set on first Hybrid. As you repair that tunnel hole you should send a nice card to your 8 pound hammer for overlooking it in clearancing process. I removed the cooler on my LT1(from an F body) because it allows a lot more exhaust room. So I can't help you on shaft clearance, although those metal pipes should bend if necessary if you decide to keep cooler. If you remove it one source of an adapter is Street and rformance...about $17. Anybody know a bottom radiator hose that works with Camaro second series style that JTR recommends to the LT1????? So far it looks like the STOCK upper hose works for me....was I really this lucky? john

Worked for me under polyurethane on 2 glass boats. Fills "spiderweb" cracks like magic. john

I used the pancake compressor in first hybrid, 240Z/350. Had headers and I used a Chev bracket for the R4...sorta generic, sorry can't be specific. Some grinding and hacksaw work to defeat header problem and lowered enough to clear hood. Used it without the part that went to exhaust manifold without problem for 4 years

Did not mean to imply the 283 over .060 was the 302...merely that it is a low dollar approach to that rare engine that the 302 is... but limitations with 700 remain the same. john Geez nobody missed the 307??

all the above is well taken...but recall my caveat of $ spent and intended use. Also, The 302 is in my opinion a great motor but NOT behind that 700R4. 302 ( .060 over 283) would be great in lighter car with 5 or 6 speeds. Recall the post asked for what are after all justopinions...mine remains unchanged. john

I am guessing here....The 700R4 will likely be used in stock or near stock form so shifts will be 5800 or less, so the highest revving of the bunch is the 327 and the potential of well over 600RPM would be lost. The 350 is a great overall compromise in bucks. No bigtime math needed to see the 383 is a bigger engine....or to total receipts. The 400 is weak on aftermarket stuff and is going to be a very low RPM motor. Consider the 350/350HP type setup in cam, intake and compression. Add HEI ignition to avoid points setting/wearing. Street aluminum heads if you have the $ will help handling and power as the compression will be more forgiving of gas octane. The Z is lighter than a full size pickup...be sure the counterman knows what it is going into and what use it will see. I ran a pretty warm 350 with a reworked 700 in a Z for 4 years and it NEVER let me down. Foot on floor 5700-5800 RPM shifts, never broke piece in drivetrain...idled under 1000. The one being built now is LT1...near stock with a T5 for variety...but even with ability to rev to destruction I am not going with big cam etc....street use is street use. Opinions are everywhere so just stay focused on ability to spend/intended use and come up with YOUR solution. Installation costs will be about same and mounts will allow changing engine choice easily at later date except the aforementioned LS1

Need to remove sleeve from arm. Seems wrong but that is the way. Take blade off hacksaw, pass through, reassemble and carefully saw through sleeve at least once. Tap out with hammer and punch. john

Has anyone used the Patriot headers on the angle plug LT1 in an early Z ? I noticed they were $40 or so cheaper than Hooker coated. The flared connector reminded me that at one time I used a Ford 429 or ? donut which was 3 inch on regular headers just by adding longer bolts...worked like a charm. May be food for thought with someone at this stage of build. john

Anyone care to comment on LT1 plug to header clearance with 2100 Hookers. They advertise improved clearance to straight plugs but no mention of angled. Also how did you handle Oxygen sensor bungs? I plan to put in the reducer after collector flange so as to not bother the ceramic coating. john

thanks a million...those #s are what I was looking for, ordinarily I would reply to thank off list but think this is a great example of how we can help each other out and should serve as a clear example. Ask a specific question, get answer in specific manner. Sometimes it seems that same question would start a rambling string of "why don't you put in a 700R4 or jag 4 speed or.... You know I heard about a guy with LT1 in airplane and he doesn't even HAVE a clutch" etc etc...thanks again list and sx240z.

Somehow my bookmark to the list location is no good, so trying to get info on a post, and replies, about a late Ford pickup(?) master cylinder and an off the shelf hose that almost bolted in to Z. This is a 7/8" bore and no drilling/tapping solution with an F body T5. The post has part #s. Hope someone has good address or hard copy to help me out. Search was not productive. thanks, john

Has anyone come up with a solution to connect the hard plastc (?) fuel lines found on the LT1 F bodies, and imagine Corvette as well, to the stock steel lines in the Z. Specifiacally I have 94 T/A LT1 and early 260Z. I prefer using both for economy. I realize I can go all AN6 etc. Hope to make connection about where the Z lines enter engine bay. Suggestions, insight, actual success w/#s. thanks john

sure wish you had responded to my questions on flowtechs

makes sense to me that car ran in spite of VATS not bypassed since it diables fuel pump I believe and if car is wired per jtr then fuel pump is independent of PCM. I am warm if not hot with this answer? john

thanks to tim240z, dewzenol(?) and others I may have missed, the posts on wire deletes have been informative AND useable. I am a weenie, have my 94 5 speed TA 051 and harness out,stripped and marked and side cutters at ready....has anyone actually tested the wire delete suggestions? They look right and I have looked at several times. Is blue 21 the one that idles up when A/C clutch is engaged? Or which? I think this is a good feature IF it can stand alone since remainder of system will be installed after engine is done. Any suggestions from others on wire selection? My early 260Z is alris already wired per JTR so alternator, fuel pump and air should stand alone. I am not using air pump, evap cannister or egr. Where someone said "constant" battery power this meant always hot 12V ? Feel free to email me directly if you have response that grup will not benefit from....thanks....like I said I am weenie...last chev if carb was wet then it was bad spark and if shocked at plug then problem was fuel. john

Maybe should be in exhaust forum but more traffic here. Does the extra depth due to oil to water heat exchanger cause a problem for exhaust routing...this is jtr/hooker 2100D in early260Z?Anyone running with exchanger removed? john

Somewhere in cyberspace is a thread on wiring deletes in the factory LT1 harness. If I recall there were 2-3 Hybrids swapping wire info on which each of them had deleted. I had bookmarked for this very time but with change in address the link no longer works. Perhaps someone will see this that recalls the thread, or has similar info. I am doing a 94 LT1 from TA with manual trans....will try for a no EGR/air pump and harness can be bare bones. Save me from fate worse than ... going to aftermarket like S&P or Painless. Car is "JTR" ready for non-FI engine, fans, A/C etc need not be in engine harness. john

Points on sound quality are well taken and appreciated. These are run of mill coaxial 6x9 Panasonics. I am 58, having been a pro pilot all my life I can barely tell if a radio is on, never mind evaluate quality! I was thinking along lines of questions like is that panel double walled? stuff like that. john

A bit off this specific topic, but figured speaker guys are here looking. I have an early 260 and keep looking at the tool recesses as a potential place for speakers...facing seatbacks through cutouts. Comments? john

22" long...I hopethey have joint in midle to make the turn....john

Dumb question I guess, since I already bought 2... They are a welded body,quality looking, pieces 13 1/2x4 1/4x10 center in, offset out, in 2 1/2 pipes. Cost about $52 each. They are a little smaller than the turbos I used on my last Hybrid. Now a little curious if anyone has experience with these. Also, last car was a 240 and the turbos went in easily but this one is a early 260 so the larger bumper mounts look like a problem. Any suggestions/experience other than cutting spare tire well? john

this is tougher than you might think...there are at LEAST two variations that look similar but do not interchange. If you find some be sure to compare closely with the ones that are being replaced...the mount holes are in slightly different locations. I would head for JY and take old one with me. I bought 2 before I figured that out for myself...john

If the brackets from Street and perf fit and headers too how about a followup post and maybe #s, price john

It sure is a help, thanks for taking the time...john

I have talked to A-1 Auto 888 391 1289 and they are highly recommended to me for as a source of complete pullouts. If the engine you want is not in stock in Houston they pull one in from another location as they are nationwide. Prices for both Corvette and F body seemed quite fair. I am planning to get mine there as the combination of price./availability is better than any other source I have found locally. PS if you are a poor college student maybe a non injected complete motor is a better solution for $ purposes...complete from a hotodder or ? You can always upgrade and do it really right later. I had to wait til all my "college students" graduated to do this car. john