pureZero

Oh yeah, that's for sure.

I thought that bit was clear enough, sorry. I ended up finding most of what was missing on my motor from that Craigslist listing. Also, the guy says he has a good L28 as well, so we'll see. That listing was put up today, by the way.

I ended up finding this: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/4283415684.html That right there is most everything I am missing.

Well here's my deal... I don't know what parts of that will transfer over from that 83 to my 78. I have the one that is just a little bit different than the other years, and I don't have a lot of the sensors. I'll take that car into consideration, but I would much prefer a running 78 L28 with everything still connected to it.

I do not mind shipping it, as long as it won't cost too much.

I'm looking for a fuel injected L28, preferably out of a 1978. Needs to be a running motor without any serious issues. I know someone has to have one sitting around that was swapped out for a SBC or RB. I am on a serious budget, so being able to drive and pick it up would be wonderful! I'm in Clallam County. I don't want to low-ball anyone, so just let me know what you are thinking as far as price. 500-800 is around my ideal price range. Thanks!

Are you trying to make a 200 mph S130, or just going for better fuel mileage? If it's the first one... Just get that out of your head, you crazy little bugger

Someone finally pointed me to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-New-Bracket-Brace-Differential-Nose-Support-Bar-69-78-/151170316498?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233273f8d2&vxp=mtr I won't be buying it from datsunpartsllc (who is the seller...), as I was supplied with the number of Juan from Krecs Engineering, who supposedly makes the part. That's if I do buy it.

I think I saw a different one on there last time... That one seems to be... Decent.

I think I saw that on there... Seems fishy to me, but I would be interested to see how much that thing could actually handle... Off the car.

Yeah, the worn bushings caused a bit of erosion as well.

The cracks seem to have been caused by worn control arm bushings. The cracking is right between the bolts, on the outer edges. I'll try getting a picture of them. I would rather not try welding on it if I do not absolutely have to. Wish there was a new aftermarket part out there somewhere...

So... $460 is doable, later on. I'm looking for something a little newer, though. But yeah, that isn't too bad.

Are you saying I should get rid of the one in the picture? I got that picture off of Google. The cracks on mine are on the ends around where the lower control arms are held in. I would weld it, or have someone weld it, but my welding instructor (who is an ex-body/mechanical repair tech) was very clear on not welding it if I don't absolutely have to. I was a little skittish about going to town on it with a welder to begin with, knowing how much of a vital part it is. You wouldn't happen to know if it was ever heat treated, would you? Keep in mind, whatever goes back in there will eventually need to handle around 400 hp...

That is not my actual part, by the way, as mine is in much better shape, but it's still on its last legs.

The one on my car is cracked, and I am in need of a new one. Does anyone know where I may be able to procure a quality aftermarket part, or has no one thought to make them?

Just make small adjustments to the rear as you go... As I'm sure you know, oversteer is better than understeer, as long as you can control it. I would actually try to avoid adding a whole lot of negative camber, as it could cause it to oversteer more, if enough is added. I would actually try to soften up the shock absorbers in the back just a hair, personally. You could also try strengthening up the LSD a little bit too...

Just took about half of the sound deadening material out of the floor boards and tunnel... I'm finding that it isn't much easier to use dry ice than the heat gun I have. Either way, it isn't an enviable chore... There's a bit of cancer on the driver side floor pan, and I managed to see some daylight coming through the passenger rocker panel. Passenger floor pan seems to be fine though, just a little dented.

Just to be a little more exact on your terminology, there are two different types of thermistors: Negative coefficient and positive coefficient. The one you are describing is a negative coefficient thermistor. Positive coefficient thermistors are rare in the automotive industry, and I don't believe Nissan has ever used them, so quite a few of us will never see one in a car. Just need to keep that in mind, because there is a possibility that you could run into a positive coefficient thermistor with an aftermarket sensor. If a person is unaware of this fact, and happens to get one, they could think it is a defective part, when it is actually working properly.

Looking for the 3.9:1 ring and pinion gears out of the long-nose r200. 280ZX 80 MT,4 Seater (3.9) (R200) 280ZX-GL 80 (3.9) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200) 300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200) This is for my project car. If you have the gearset, let me know what you're wanting for it.

Correction... Stock VG30DE exhaust is already 2.25. Custom headers with 2.25" exit.

As far as the exhaust... I will be whipping up a set of 2.25" custom headers using the mating surface off an extra stock set. After that will be 2.25" straight-pipe with twin glass packs. The step down from 2.5" to 2.25" exhaust should actually give the motor a little bit of a performance, since it will keep the exhaust gasses a hotter than the larger size, making it flow faster.

Not with everything the car still needs for that motor to run...

Apparently, I forgot to specify that it's a 78 280Z. Also, I also forgot to mention that my 300ZX was wrecked back in 2011. Now, the reason it's so sensible is because I have most of the parts it needs to run, and drive. All I will have to make are a new shift lever, new motor and transmission mounts, and then have a drive shaft made with the Z32 slip yoke and 280Z rear flange. It will also cost me less money to just get it running than with the L28, since the car had a lot of expensive parts missing. I will also try to retain the original mounting points, to enable me to swap the original motor back into it very quickly. My VG30DE / 5-speed combo are still solid, and will need very little work to get running.

I'm going for functionality at the moment, not looks. I'm going to try out 195/65 R15, which is very close to the stock tire diameter (I happen to have a set on-hand), but I don't have much hope that it'll accelerate as fast as I would like. Besides, it won't look as goofy as the 195/50's on there now.