zx_drift

Not sure about the pump, but the feed line for the turbo comes out of a distribution block that threads into where the oil pressure sender is. I replaced mine with this fitting so I could run stainless line to it

On mine, the space between the drain tube bolted to the turbo and the oil pan inlet was a pretty tight fit. You could always make a different drain tube though. Buy a flange and some AN fittings.

Hey guys. I didn't want to resort to throwing parts at my car but I'm at my limit... I need an AFM from a 82-83 turbo Z, and the bracket (which holds AFM and the VCM). I also need an 82-83 Turbo ECU with M/T. Let me know what you guys have. Thanks.

Sorry haven't been on here in a bit. They are silver. I'll put some pics up when I have time. I'll also put pictures of the Z since people were asking about it. I am also trying to figure out some camber/toe adjustment in the rear.

I'm building a drift S130 also. All the suspension is custom or aftermarket... Slides pretty nicely. Open diff and all. It will be better with something else though. Too bad thats $

Does anyone know what voltage range and values at certain RPM the Air Flow Meter for a 280ZX-T is supposed to have? I'm checking mine and it is around 3 volts at idle, seems a little strange. It seems the range is 0-5 volts, 0 being lots of air, 5 being no air (which is backwards from every other MAF out there...) Any help would be great.

Hey I'm looking for a 280zx turbo MAF and an ECU ('82 or '83 MT). Also, I do need the MAF bracket as well. Let me know what you guys have. Thanks!

So I'm pretty sure my AAC is bad, I applied vacuum to it and it seems to flow air whether its closed or open. I'm going to replace it, and it should solve my idle issues, and maybe some boost problems. Anybody here have one I could purchase? I'm having trouble finding one.

My setup works really well if you can handle scraping your car on the ground. I have coilovers that I fabbed, with 300lb/in springs in the front, 350lb/in in the rear. Very stiff, but well balanced. Dropped probably 6" from stock height, but not really sure. Frame rails are probably an inch from the ground. Have camber plates up front, as well as bump steer spacers, T3 tension rods ( I received the very first set ever made for free). Also, because the car is so low, the tie rod ends became to long, so I had to make shortened ones. They are now about an inch thick steel with heim joints for the end. Extremely beefy, no play whatsoever. Also, they lay completely flat when the car is on the ground, so there is virtually no bump steer. Let me know if you want me to post any pictures of the setup.

What engine swap are you planning on doing? For a turbo swap, I believe there are clearance issues with the gear box on recirculating ball steering. Also, in my opinion, rack and pinion is just better. Let parts to worry about maintaining, less slop..

Could someone post pictures of their stock intakes and engine bays so I can compare to see how everything is supposed to be hooked up? I'm pretty sure mine is all correct, but I didn't have much reference so I could have something wrong.

I'm positive all of the injector o-rings are there. I will try the lighter thing. But no boost isn't the only problem. It also doesn't idle, and it misses a lot on decel (clutch engaged). Seems like there are multiple problems here, and I think some of it may lie in the controls attached to the intake manifold ie. air regulator and aac.

I smoke tested it with a tester, into the intake manifold, with the throttle plate open (so smoke would flow into the j-tube and to the turbo) I have new plastic injector clips/holders. The AAC has an idle adjustment on it, but when I turn the screw, nothing changes. Could this be because it is open? I need to have it connected because of stupid smog, but otherwise I would take it off. Also, my air regulator, the thing with coolant lines and a some temp sensor in it, is from a non-turbo z. Could this affect its operation?

The injectors are new, the fuel pressure was low but I just installed a walbro 255 and now it is up at a good level. Fuel filter is new. Smoke tested intake, found no leaks. Check all the sensors as far as I know as per the FSM (MAF, ECT, TPS). Most of the FSM refers to using the ECCS analyzer. It is impossible to acquire one of these, but I have tested the sensors with a multimeter and output tests. All seem to be within the correct range. I just don't know what else to look for. I don't wanna throw parts at it but it seems like I have no choice.

That thing is all hooked up. Also another symptom is the car is really hard to start when it is even remotely warmed up. Misfires like crazy, like its heat soaked.

Isn't the VCM the device that is near the AFM? Controls EGR and AAV? I've hooked it up to a smoke tester, found no leaks.

Hey, I've recently swapped a turbo engine into my 1982 280ZX. Its been a long process, and I have almost everything figured out except that once the engine goes into boost (0 psi manifold pressure) the car starts misfiring like crazy. Also, it will not idle unless I hold my foot on the gas. The car runs fine when its cold (except there's no boost) and the same when it warms up, but for a small range, I'd say 60 to 70 degrees celcius, it misfires a lot and it struggles to stay running. I've hooked the car up to a dyno and a wide band, and its super lean except when the throttle shuts between shifts. I've checked out everything I can think of, so if there's anyone with a lot of experience with the turbo L6's, your help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello all. I am looking for a MAF bracket for a 280zx turbo. I also need the Air Regulator from the turbo zx. Pm me or call 5309089507 if you have one. Thanks!

Bump..

bump.. still looking

Hey I need a '81 Crank angle sensor or an '82-'83 turbo distributor and spindle for my turbo swap. I found out I have a bad cas and new ones are damn expensive. PM or call 5309089507

Yes, 81 distributor with CAS at the pulley, turbo AFM. It does idle, about 800 rpm or so. Hooked up at timing light and it is 20 BTDC, but if I open the throttle it retards (instead of advancing) down to 0 then the ignition cuts out pretty much.

Air flow meter tested good. So it is retarding the timing when you rev the engine instead of advancing it. Any ideas?

Bump.. I also need the gasket/O-ring that is at the J-pipe to throttle chamber connection.

The MAF tested good (followed steps in FSM). I bypassed the air regulator, and it did manage to get off idle, but misses throughout the range (sounds like a Subaru). Any other ideas? Also, where is this EFI bible? Thanks.