Chris83zxt

Thanks for this, this looks great for what I need. FYI one of the top links on fleabay is selling them for $22 with free shipping.

After the throttle body, on the intake manifold.

If the above image works (linking to an attachment on another forum) that's what 2011 Ford Fiesta seats look like in an s130. That was one of the first things I did with the interior back in March or so. I've since ground more material off of the seats so they sit at about the same height as stock, as well as installed new carpet/refinished the dash etc.

Now that MS3/MS3X has fairly robust support for knock sensors, has anyone had success using the stock knock sensor? I dug up old threads regarding the stock sensor but they were older and not relevant to MS3. Would I have better luck ditching the stock sensor and retrofitting a broadband Bosch sensor?

Thanks

The DIY trigger wheel on an 82/83 turbo dizzy is sufficient to run a full sequential setup, correct? No external cam sensor required? Thanks.

Tested by removing all plugs and fully opening TB while cranking. 145-150 on cylinders 1-5. 115 on 6. Dumped a little bit of oil in and up to 150. Therefore I imagine it's a damaged compression ring. Theres no appreciable amount of oil use. There is a little oil getting blown into the intake through the PCV system. The motor has 200k+ on it but it's running pretty good with the new intercooler and 11psi. There's a slight miss at idle sometimes and sometimes not. It rolled a fart can honda that tried to jump me pretty bad earlier tonight. I had plans on rebuilding with flat top pistons sometime in the 9-12mo timeframe. I wanted to go sequential spark and fuel via MS3 first. Should I rearrange my priorities and look to rebuild soon? What bad things could I be doing to the engine internals, long term, if I continue to run it (sometimes hard) with the damaged ring(s) in #6? Thanks for any input. (*edit - Tony D, I posted this before reading your response on zcar)

69 is pretty meh. I recharged my factory system with R12 prior to a long road trip back in June. I also installed a ball valve in the heater hose that goes to the heater core (if you do this I recommend you install it on the return line so you don't have hot coolant recirculating through your motor continuously). With the valve open and coolant running through the heater core, I was getting 52 degrees out of the vents. With the valve closed, I got down to 34.6 out of the vents at one point on the trip. Due to a silly and expensive mistake on my part, my r12 all leaked out, so I have since recharged with enviro-safe 12a (ES-12a) which is a propane blend. With the valve open it will drop down to around 54, closed 66 or so. I've never retrofit R-134a into a datsun, but 69 degrees sounds almost like a waste of time, especially if your car has t-tops. PS - When charging an auto A/C system have the blower on full blast, the windows down, and the car idling at 2,000 rpm.

The guy who did my paint cut out the rusty parts and built a new bucket out of mesh and fiberglass. That was six months ago and it's doing fine. Helped with road noise tremendously.