Chris83zxt

Soo . . . in the midst of installing my new fuel pump and flex fuel sensor today and having to go get some gas in a can after running the car out fiddling with it last night I went around a corner and heard something slide off of the roof of my truck. I caught a glimpse as it tumbled and I knew immediately that I had left my netbook up there. Screen is busted No further tuning for me until the replacement I just ordered gets here next weekend.

I'll post screencaps of the Bosch valve settings later when I get home. So your trigger log shows regular trigger events using Poll Level triggering with the next option the default "Low"? Thanks. Oh, and thanks for posting your tune. It's what I used as a base.

So yesterday at 8:30AM I began pulling out stock stuff and installing my sequential megasquirt setup. At 11:30PM last night, I successfully started it for the first time. This was after some failed attempts from 6PM-7PM before I had to quit for other engagements for a while. I found that my problem with the initial attempts was that I wasn't getting a trigger signal when everything was set up according to the DIYautotune trigger wheel howto. Specifically, after changing the "Second trigger active on" from "Poll Level" to "Rising Edge" I started getting a trigger signal and the car started. Does anyone have their setup working per the write-up with "Poll Level" triggering? Did you set your MS up for optical input or VR? If I keep it at rising edge, should I change "Ignition Input Capture" to falling edge per the write-up for MS2E? Regardless I'm happy to have it running. The Bosch 505 PWM idle valve seemed to work right off the bat in 3-wire mode with some settings I found online and the warm-up idle is already smoother than it was with the stock system.

I ordered my MS3/MS3X with a knock module installed but I haven't decided whether or not I'm going to try to adapt the stock knock sensor to it or use an aftermarket "wideband" knock sensor. I'm going for a one day megasquirt install tomorrow. Unfortunately since Speedhut has taken over two weeks now to get my fuel pressure gauge w/ sending unit to me I probably won't actually be able to test fire it until Monday or Tuesday.

This is true. My mods (until the MS3 starts going in this weekend) are boost controller at 11psi, fmic, hollowed out cat, decent boost gauge and a wideband w/ A/F ratio meter*, and I went 1 and 1 racing a Charger SRT8 a couple of weeks back. We've got a big weight advantage on these new powerful piggies. *and very fat tires that get me some nice launches.

Try putting it in a zip.

I came up with the same approximate measurement (75mm) for the impeller on the one I received. Mine does have the ground off spot on the front as well.

I've read on other forums about people having success using the clear plastic 3/8 in/out filters (FRAM G3, WIX 33003) pre-pump. They aren't advisable to use after the pump due to the pressure but people apparently have had long-term success using them before it. I'm installing my Walbro later today and will be trying a WIX 33003 as a pre-filter.

Were the replacements new? I'd be interested in your source if so, since I am tentatively planning on sticking with my p90a at this point.

My plan thus far has been to use some heavy gauge sheet metal to do my bracket, but I'd happily buy something pre-fabbed if the price was right.

I got mine today and it's identical to the above. I won't be able to test fit it for a month or two.

Any interest in making more of the d585 mounts? That's what I'll be using when I do my MS3x switcharoo here in a month or two.

I sense rhetoric in action.

Has anyone had a bad experience running e85 with the Walbro? Good experience? I've been planning my fuel system upgrade and I've came to the conclusion that the 255lph is just enough of a pump for my goals and it's long been established as one of the best (from a price/performance perspective) aftermarket pumps. Also, will I experience any badness running e85 through the stock feed and return fuel hard lines?

Haha! I know there's a tendency to keep stuff like this hush-hush due to fear that the supply will completely dry up, but on the other hand if we show there is still demand (which seems to be happening right now) hopefully they'll keep (re)manufacturing the parts

TonyD will verbally slap me upside the head for not calling it what it is in the FSM, but it's basically a pressure relief valve that operates similarly to how a recirculating BOV operates. When the throttle plate closes under boost and there is a significant difference in pressure between the J-pipe and the intake manifold, that thing is supposed to open up and allow the pressure in the J-pipe to balance with that of the intake manifold. I could see how it might cause a high idle if stuck partially open. I used two big rubber hose caps to close it and the feeder tube off when I installed a real BOV.

You guys are awesome. Rockauto has them back in stock (only 9 now after my order). I should have mine soon, and I'll give everyone a heads up if anything has changed with the part since last year.

I have a need for the diesel pump, preferably new in box. Edit: Found a source for one.

I didn't see what year we're talking about. I'm assuming L28 NA since it's early EFI. Did the NAs have cylinder head temp sensors? My l28et goes too rich to even run if I unplug it, so it might be bad or have a bad connection.

I read up some on the Datsun Parts person too. It seems like you'd get a motor with some new and some reused parts. Probably a step up from a random JY motor, but don't buy one expecting to be able to beat on it like it's a performance motor and have it last. Since their prices aren't too bad, it might be a good way to get a core for a future quality rebuild. I think BRAAP is in the Pacific NW. There are also Datsun Spirit and Sunbelt over toward the East coast as options for reputable builders.

While we're on the topic of engine rebuilds and people are throwing out recommendations, does anyone have any good feedback for a midwest engine rebuilder? Does Lonewolf Performance do rebuilds or just head work? They're out of Kansas aren't they?

I like that in both of these the little trouble light is still mounted off by itself.

When I did my first compression test I did mine with a cold-ish engine and other plugs in as well, and my numbers were around 120 on 1-5 if I'm remembering correctly. When doing it the proper way, the compression tested 145-150 on 1-5, low (115) on 6 due to a ring issue. Your numbers should look better if testing a warm motor with the plugs out. I also remember reading somewhere that your compression might read lower for the first couple thousand miles on a freshly rebuilt motor.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/80533-poll-do-you-loop-the-coolant-or-plug-up-the-holes/page-2?hl=%20heater%20%20hose%20%20recirculation I found a few of the posts in that thread regarding this situation to be more matter-of-fact than what you can sometimes find elsewhere. I needed to shut off flow to the heater core because it was causing my A/C to blow hotter than necessary (bad heater control valve allowing constant bypass I'm guessing). If you go to Lowes or HD or similar and look in the PEX plumbing section you should be able to find a nice 3/4" barbed brass ball valve. These fit nicely inside the stock heater hose and I've had no issues with leaking once clamped down (and I currently have two of them installed). I initially installed one in between the #6 outlet and the heater core inlet (just fits) but then I discovered during the course of a long road trip that the car was getting gradually warmer and warmer until I had to open the shut-off. I have an 83' that has the pressure relief valve plumbed in parallel with the heater core, and it's probably stuck open causing contant recirc (constant recirc everywhere!). I then installed another shut-off on the return line somewhere above spark plug #3 or thereabouts. That one solved the heat creep I had experienced as it stopped the hot water recirculating right back into the motor. I think the best solution might be to block off the return line going to the water pump inlet and replumb it into some point past (forward of) the thermostat housing. This would allow additional water flow around the rear cylinders which might help to keep them from becoming hot spots. The downside would be that the car would take a little longer to reach operating temperature. I could be completely wrong about this though, and hope to be corrected in a most brutal fashion if so (before I do it to my car).

Edit: Nevermind, saw my answer RE: the yukon coil mount. Looks good.