Zlost

1 XL T shirt Turquoise 27606 Simon

I have not opened it up yet, working on getting my garage built and want to drive it in when done (not push in) I hope to have it done in a month or so. I agree, I must have been knocking really bad, I will be using another tuner this time around. I have another F54 block that I want to get sonic tested to see how far I can take it, they I will know what pistons to get. I plant to get the rings & pistons quoted this time around, and with a proper tune it should last this time.

Hi there I'm getting ready to rebuild my turbo engine and need some recommendation on rings. I used Hastings in my last 2 builds and in both (different blocks) I had some blowby. My first build (ITM pistons, Hastings rings, Clevite rod bearings, hole is piston #2 running 16psi) had worn rings after 6 or 7 thousand miles, made sure I had the turbo rings on the 2nd build (factory turbo pistons) and will have the checked when I tear it down. Thanks Simon

Hi all, I know old post but can't find anything newer with any answers. Anyone ever figure this out? I tried connecting the stock zx sensor to my MS2 and followed the wiring instructions but had no luck getting it to work. I have one wire going to MS2 grounding point the other going in on the tan/green SPR3 input. These are the instructions I used from the hardware manual. 3.4.9.1 Analogue inputs The JS4, JS5 connections on the MS2 card can be used as 0-5V analogue inputs. Parts required. One 1k 1/8W (or 1/4W) resistor, one 0.22uF 10V ceramic capacitor. Solder into proto area.Run jumper wire to JS4 or JS5 (your choice.) Run jumper wire to SPR3 or SPR4 (your choice.) Analogue options: MAF, 2nd O2 sensor, Baro sensor, misc sensor. Input pin name Processor (DIP40) pin number Note JS4/AD7 30 Analogue input or digital input JS5/AD6 29 Analogue input or digital input When used for a misc analogue sensor input, JS5 is datalogged as ADC6 on a scale of 0-1023 points and JS4 is datalogged as ADC7. See the TunerStudio manual for more detail Thanks

Hello I am looking for the early maxima bracket so I can use the 280zx hardware I already have. Anyone have or know who still makes these?(and don't cost $200) All the ones i found are for the 240SX and the maxima/300 setup. Thanks

Hi there I have one out of a 82ZXT. Let me know if still looking.

Thanks for the suggestions. I emailed Isky asking about the cost for a regrind but have not heard back, i might have to give them a call.

Are you still looking for one? I have one and I'm in NC. PM me if interested. Simon

Thanks rossman any recommendation on where to send the cam?

Hello all I have a P90A head, I took the lifters apart and cleaned. They look okay to me, no visible pitting or damage but not really sure what to look for. Before I buy a new cam for it (old one was damaged in storage) I wanted some input; is it worth buying a stage II Schneider for the P90A or should I ditch the hydraulic lifters and convert it to a solid lifter? I have read many posts on how too but not much info on people running the hydraulic lifters and if they are having problems with them or not. I like the idea of a quieter engine and wouldn't mind connecting a knock sensor to the MS2. I am currently running a P90 with 16 PSI of boost. No issues and the car runs fine, just looking to make it a little better. Thanks Simon

Summit Racing has the Cardone 31-1003 for a decent price. I saw a couple shafts on ebay. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-31-1003?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-cardone-industries&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Yj3qb7K3wIVxp-zCh3HdwkJEAYYASABEgIhjvD_BwE

Water bottle did not work, too thick and not long enough, inner-tube is next.

Thanks Grannyknot, I checked them out and it is 34 bucks for a used one shipped. If I wanted to stay OEM yeah it's ok deal but I don't and that's too much for a used one. I ordered a rubber water bottle that should be here Tuesday, I will upload a picture if it works. Cheers

Thanks Tim, I am not concerned with OEM at this point, I just need something that will work.

Greetings I took the wiper motor out of my 280z to cleanup the linkage and service the motor. The protective bag ripped on me in a few places plus it is so brittle it looks like it will far apart soon. I have searched (sorry if I missed it) and as we know there are several posts dealing with the motor but could not find anything on bag replacement options. I was thinking maybe an inter tube or even a hot water bottle? My buddy suggested a turkey cooking bag doubled up and sealed with hot glue, I know that sounds weird but might be a good option. Your suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Zlost

Hi there, thanks for those who responded. My problem turned out to be the ECU, I'm not sure why but it looked like the ECU was keeping injectors on too long causing it to flood. I don't think i had a weak spark after all. I found a Bosh ECU online, so far it works great, I had to adjust the AFM because it was running lean with the new ECU. I plan to take in for a proper tuneup soon. Does anyone know a good Z mechanic in the Raleigh NC area area? Thanks Zlost

Thanks for the info,

Hi JSM I cleaned the ECU connector and soldered some suspicious looking solder joints on the PC board. Do you know if the car would start without the ECU connected? Thanks Zlost

Hello all About a month ago I cranked my car and when it started it was sputtering and was running very rich with a lot of black smoke. I also noticed much lower idle. I went for a 15 minute drive and laid into a bit. It cleared up and I went back home and the car sat for almost 2 weeks. When started it again it had the same issue as before except it was worse. More black smoke (heavy smell of gas), the engine was sputtering and was barley staying on. The idle dropped to under 500. I went for spin as I did before but this time it did not help. As I was checking a few things under the hood it stalled and I could not get it started again. The car turns over just fine and you can smell the gas, plugs are wet. I ran the recommended EFI and EE checks from the manual for the ECU and ignition. The only thing I found was low spark at the plugs, spark at coil looked ok but it could be weak. -I have 12 volts at the coil and fresh gas, fuel pressure is around 35. -I have replaced with new or known good parts I had or borrowed: The coil, coil wire, complete distributor with new cap and rotter, removed the condenser, swapped the transistor ignition box with a known good one, water sensor (and checked for corroded connector) checked vacuum hoses and grounds. Cleaned all relay sockets in the engine bay (in front of battery) cleaned ECU connector and checked the solder joints on the PC board. I have a GM HEI module on order, should be here tomorrow but with a known good ignition box in there I don't think it will help. I tried starter fluid and it did start for a few seconds but would not stay on I took out all the plugs and wiped them off and blew out each cylinder with air to make sure the are not flooded. I also checked the fuel return from the regulator, fuel was coming out when I was cranking it and I blew out the line with an air compressor to make sure it is not clogged back to the tank. I did read the post about the torn diaphragm on the APR, I will check that next. Any help would be apreciated Zlost