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mr_han_solo

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Everything posted by mr_han_solo

  1. Hey Rob, Thanks for replying. Is the old truck bell housing made for a hydraulic clutch or mechanical linkage? The reason I ask is I'm wondering how you mounted the slave cylinder to actuate the clutch fork.
  2. Hello, I am looking to put a Muncie/T-10/Saginaw in my '73 240z. The car is currently an automatic. I have the pedal assembly, master cylinder, and slave from a donor 280z. I was wondering what my choices are as far as clutch and pedal linkage go. I have done some searching and most of the documentation is on a hydraulic throwout bearing. However, I have seen some posts on using a slave setup, and a non-hydraulic mechanical linkage. However, in the posts nobody provides any information on how to do the setup using these methods. I was hoping someone could explain all of this so I could choose which way is the best option for my car. Thanks, Han
  3. Hello, I am wanting to buy a Type 1 ducted Air dam (fiberglass or urethane) and a Victory Spoiler for my '73 240z. I would also entertain a BRE spoiler if someone has one of them that they want to get rid of. I figure that shipping will be the killer on these items and I am located in Alabama. I also noticed that MSA just started their holiday sale but I wanted to check in here to see if I may be able to get an air dam or spoiler cheaper. I am also looking for the 81-84 Maxima Backing Plates (44155-04S10). I posted in the thread about a week ago, but I still haven't been able to find these plates outside of Datsun Parts LLC. Just wanted to see if anyone here may have the plates. Thanks, Han
  4. I found this diagram for custom brackets that will work in place of the Maxima Brackets. I have been looking for stock brackets for the past two weeks. There isnt a Nissan dealer in the states that can get the stock brackets, and the only other option is the $200 for a set. I have about decided that it will just be cheaper to get them fabricated locally.
  5. Hello, I am trying to put the 280z taillights from my donor car into my 240z. Unfortunately when I bought the 240 it didn't have any of the taillight bulbs or male connectors. All it had was the wiring harness to the lights and the female connector ends. I cut the harness out of the 75 280z (the main harness with the female connectors) to put in my 240; Upon inspection I am finding one problem. The 240z taillights have the following wires. Red/Black, Black, Green/White, Green/Red. The 280z is different. It has Red/Black, Black, Green/White, Green/Red, and Black/Yellow. Now I have traced this Black/Yellow in the 1975 wiring diagram and I see that it goes to the stop switch. Apparently, the 240z doesn't have this switch. My question is that if I wire everything up to the 240 and leave the Black/Yellow wire unconnected (since I don't have anything to splice it to) will the taillights still work? Thanks, Han
  6. Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I am looking for these brackets too. Just a few questions to add. I looked under Brakes, but I couldn't find the caliper brackets. I even used both part # that tamo3 provided. Do you have anything more specific that I may be able to find on rockauto.com? I looked at the courtesy website and it said that 44155-04S10 was not in stoc kand no longer manufactured. However they do sell 44155-N3202. tamo3 stated that the 04s10 brackets were the desired ones. could N3202 be used in place of the 04S10?
  7. Hello, I tried to do a search, but I couldn't really find anything regarding this subject. I got a 1975 280z as a parts car today. I am wanting to try to figure out everything I need to pull off of it that I may use on my 240 in the future. Here is what I have so far: - R180 Rear end (Differential, half-shafts and mustache bar) - Tachometer for future V8 upgrade - Doors and hinges since the doors themselves open and close better than the 240. - I'm also taking both fenders just in case - Taillights and rear plastic The car is pretty roach, but I was just wondering if there is anything else I may need to take off of it for a future upgrade. Everything I dont use will be sold on here, Craigslist, or taken off for scrap.
  8. Hello, I was wondering if anyone could identify this V8 mount kit that I found on Craigslist this morning. Thanks, Han
  9. Hello, I am wanting to buy the JTR- V-8 Conversion Manual for Datsun Z Cars. Hoping someone has one to sell that's not overpriced like every other place (Amazon/eBay). Thanks, Han
  10. My #1 carb is getting wayyy too much gas. I have posted the following video to demonstrate what it is doing: SU Carb - YouTube The #2 carb seems to be getting the right amount of fuel. I mean I don't see it flowing out like a geyser like the #1 carb is. I initially thought that the regulator was bad (i have an aftermarket electric pump), however since the #2 seems to be working right, I'm thinking something may be wrong with the #1 carb. Hope someone has some answers. Thanks.
  11. Hello, I purchased my first Z car yesterday and while it may be kind of rough, the guy told me that it was running when he parked it. Unfortunately that was two years ago and it looks like he cut the cables when he took the battery out, or the battery was stolen and all of the cables were cut. I installed new terminals today and I am just trying to see if I can get the car to start. Unfortunately, it looks like the car was replaced with an after market electric fuel pump and I have no idea how it’s supposed to work. I have some questions and my hypothesis, and I have presented it with pictures and a diagram. I am just wanting some conformation that what I am presenting is correct or some suggestions if I am wrong. First under the dash: As you can see there is a switch to turn the electric pump on and off. The red wire going outside the car is A, whole the other switch wire goes into the console. Now onto the engine bay: Here you can see where A comes up and has been cut off. My hypothesis is that it needs to be wired onto A? which goes into the fuel pump. B? Is the black wire from the fuel pump and I'm guessing it gets screwed onto the body as a ground. Now I will ask about the fuel lines. 1 comes from a steel line on the frame rail and my guess is that it goes into the fuel pump. Line 2 out of the fuel pump should go to line 3 which goes to the regulator. From the regulator line 3 goes into another steel line which goes to the carbs. Line 4 is the return line from the carbs and goes back into another steel line on the frame rail. Just wanting to make sure all of this is correct. Now onto the starter: Here you can see the + and - Battery cables I'm guessing that ?2 is the red line from the switch that went into the console and dash. I suppose it should be wired directly to the battery. I have no idea what the connector ?1 is. I was hoping someone here could fill me in on it and tell me if there is anything else I need to hook up to get the car going. Thanks, Han
  12. I really don't want to spend $200 for a set of rockers that I would only use during break in. Instead of taking the inner springs out, could I just use stock springs (which should be lower pressure) and just install my actual springs after break in?
  13. Okay, I went ahead and got a set of bare ProComp heads. I talked to some other people that have bought the new 190CC castings and they said that they were excellent compared to what they read on the internet. I have also decided on using the Competition Cams 12-224-4. Now I am trying to get the parts to build my heads. I am wanting a high revving engine, and I have found a pretty good deal on some competition parts. I just wanted to check and make sure they will work together with my heads and my cam. Valve Springs: PSI 1.310 Chrome Silicone Valve Springs 350 @ 1.500" ID: .645 Seat Load: 225@ 1.750 Open Load: 350 @ 1.500 Coil Bind 1.150 Retainers: Xceldyne Mini Top Lock Titanium Retainers 1.250" Outside Diameter 2nd step is .955" and the locator is .655". The hole at the top measures close to: .375", the bottom hole measures .325". Locks: Del West 7MM Titanium MINI Valve Top Locks I have been doing some reading and I am concerned about the pounds of the spring and the wear on the cam. I got my David Vizard book in and after reading it, it states that anything between 240Lbs and 250lbs should be good for 100,000 miles. Also, I am also concerned about these locks working with standard Manley valves. I could also get some titanium valves for pretty cheap, but I have read that I will have to have my heads machined and I don't want to go that route. I'm looking at just getting Manley Race-Flo valves. Can someone tell me how to calculate if I will need valves that are .100 longer?
  14. I went ahead and bought the Vizard book. In the meantime I plugged my build into Desktop Dyno 2003 to get a general idea of where I would be at. I used the previously mentioned Crane 110921. However, I don't really like what I see on it. I was wondering though, does this think look right? Should I have that much torque that low in the RPM range? With Crossram: With Victor/Victor Jr. Style: If anyone has any other cam or grinds that I can plug in, I will be more than happy with any suggestions. I really have no idea what to look for in a camshaft.
  15. Well I realized that there is not need to drop a ton of money on aluminum heads when all I have to gain with this is a loss of 50 lbs. Instead I have been scouring the local car yards looking for 062 L31 Vortec Heads. Now if I go with a crossram I will have to modify the heads for the intake, but from everything I have read these heads are plenty good for what I'm wanting to do. I have bought a set of lt1 (1993-1996) powdered metal connecting rods. So it's starting to come together. What Vizard book has the list of builds in it? "How to build max performance Chevy small blocks on a Budget" or "How to build horsepower"? I already own his "How to rebuild and modify your small block Chevy."
  16. It's going to be a 350. I'm going to go with 190cc runners in an aluminum head. I'm still looking at options there. I have looked at some threads of people that did similar engine builds and i'm also looking at going with this cam: crane solid lifter 110921 cam http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-110921 Any thoughts on that?
  17. Hello, I am wanting to build a 350CI Gen1 Small Block Chevy for my 280Z SCCA car. Now I have been through the rule book and realize that this engine will put me in a totally different class where I will have to spend a lot of time and money to ever be competitive. However, after reading some things this seems to be a swap that a lot of people do. My plan is to build the engine and mate it to a built t-5 transmission. I am a college student, so this is something I am trying to do on a low budget per the winter. Honestly, I know that I am going to be investing some money in this project so I am prepared for that aspect of things, I just don't want it to get out of control. As for the engine I already have the four bolt main block. As I previously stated my goal is to build this engine for SCCA as the 280 is my SCCA car. In my mind I'm wanting to do a DZ302 homage with the 350. I am already looking into a cross ram setup, and as my primary goal is autocross and club racing, I am wanting something that makes power in the high rpm range. However, I also want to be able to drive the car to the events so running on 93 octane is a must. I have purchased several books (How to hotrod your small block, how to rebuild a small block, smokey yunick's power secrets, etc.) and have been reading them to familiarize myself with this project. As I previously stated I already have a block and a forged crank. I have been looking at some heads and that's where my questions come in. The heads I'm looking at are aluminum (to keep weight down) and made by Procomp. Now I know that I'm going to get some crap for going with the cheap pro comp heads. I've done a ton of reading on them and read that some people hate them and others like them. Is it the cheap route? Yes. However, I have talked to a (fairly) local guy who does head work and he assures me that he has worked on pro comps before and can get some pretty good flow numbers out of them. I have checked with some references and I do trust his word. That said, I am lost on intake runner size. Pro comp offers them in 190, 200, and 210 sizes. I have already settled on getting the angled plugs over the straight. I'm just needing to know what intake runner size is best for my build. Hoping someone here can help me out. Thanks, Han
  18. After looking at many different cars, I've found a 280Z for a good price and in good condition. The only problem is that it is a 2+2. I've tried searching and reading as best as I could about the 2+2. It seems like the extra weight wont matter much once it is stripped, but then again there is a wheelbase difference. I have a 260 I'm looking at too, but it's not in as good as condition as the 2+2 but it is less. The 2+2 is an automatic, but after doing some reading getting the pedal and linkage for a manual setup shouldn't be that hard. What's everyone's opinion on a regular Z vs the 2+2 for my application?
  19. Thanks for the help everyone. I'm planning on just fooling around. I have contacted some people with the local SCCA here in Alabama and they said depending on what class I fall into, being competitive could be hit or miss. They stated several different classes and i'm looking int othe rules of each one to see where I want to go. This isn't something I want to put a ton of money into, just something to dabble with and to take up my spare time.
  20. Hello, I am wanting to build a 240,260, or 280 for SCCA, Autocross, track days, etc. I have been doing a lot of research over the past few days on what kind of stuff I will need to do and what all of this is going to cost. I have a Small Block Chevy that I am going to put into the car. It's looking like I may be coming to this place often with questions as I progress through the build. My first question is this: Since it is going to be a track car, which one will be best? I know the 280Z is the heaviest, but once everything is gutted they should all weigh the same, correct? Also, is there any track guys here that have done what I am doing that has documented their builds? Thanks, Han
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