nzarano
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Everything posted by nzarano
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i think my carbs / fuel system deff play a part in the issues I've had in the past with engines.... I plan on just putting the engine in the car, starting it up with the carbs to make sure there are no other issues then doing an sds refi install. Don't know if i just want to go refi or refi then turbo which is why im hesitant on the cam.... Electrical issues will hopefully be taken care of with the refi instal, but im debating a new body harness, don't want to deal with an ez wiring harness though so might just find somewhere to get a refurbished one so i can make it plug and play..... current debates are if i should do all the building after the machine shop takes care of all their work or if i should get them to build it to my specs ( leaning to that...) su's with some adjusted needles ( need ideas for this?) or efi? what to do with the body harness aka throw it away and get a new one or just roll with it i don't want this project to sit and get over my head thats my main concern keeping things within my realm and budget.... extra thoughts are what cam would be good for peppy street driving with this set up ( car will see high way time but nothing too crazy mostly around town and the longest highway journey it will take is 45-60mins) - to add to the pep should i look into a rear end? i have no clue what's on the car now... Brake lines and entire fuel system i feel need to be adjusted as well but i have no clue where to start with this... to start with the engine then do peripherals or do the opposite or try and just go very slow doing it all at the same time....
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looking to go with efi, trying to get my hands on a full 6f kit with crank trigger map sensor tps etc, pm me or post your set up with price and we can work something out hopefully
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ahhh so the cam is the limiting factor along with the breathing.... i thought it would be the cast pistons, thanks for the response out of curiosity does anyone make a plenum or manifold for turbo itbs?... (so many questions didnt mean to thread jack just curious )
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also where did you mount the tps and the map sensor for the ecu? great build man, really high quality work
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Tony d you said "Like putting ITB's on a cast-piston N/A Motor with no cam. Terrible parts mismatch." just because i don't know any better and sort of liked this idea for my build, whats wrong with this? I just didnt want the hassle of tripples and something a bit smarter and sexier than su's....
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i've had my 240z for about a year now, the engine is original and always gave me trouble, didnt want to start or in general was unreliable, so i thought why not get an l28! a bit more power and hopefully it will be a bit more reliable.... HA! i was wrong... engine blew up within a week of being in the car and i went back to the original l24, which just stopped working recently, so i thought to myself why not take apart the l28 and build something properly. My goal is reliability and fun. I dont want to have to spend a ton of money to get some crazy horsepower or even get to the point where i have to think if the other parts of the car will take the horsepower. In the department of speed i just want to be able to beat my friends bmw 32something wagon in a 0-60 sort of deal, so i think it needs to be sub 6.5 seconds ish? maybe 200hp at the crank? when it comes to funds im more interested in spending them making this thing bullet proof rather than faster than a bullet what ive got: n42 block -> block needs to be bored because its tapered and a hone wont fix it n42 head random parts what im planning / need help (opinions on) .04 overbore flattop pistons a cam? really need help on this one too many options fuel delivery, i want something that will be reliable and simple to maintain and will work with the overbore flattop set up (i was hoping i could get away with rebuilt su's with some upgraded needles or something along those lines) is it worth it to get oversized valves or some head work? aka what would give me the most bang for my buck i know i need new gaskets, rings, and bearings, anything else essential to a rebuild to make reliable and worth the time?
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im trying to find a welded head like the kenmari spl heads... but not trying to spend more than what my car costs on just a head kit. anyone know where to get a head welded or find something like this for maybe 1/6 to 1/3 of the price? something like this http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858341/KAMEARI_L6_KAMEARI__SPL__RACING_HEAD_UPGRADE_#IMAGES but just the head
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for cold starts and if i change anything on the engine it adjusts so theres no need to keep fidling with carbs...
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the main reason being having an l28 bored in a 240z and avoiding having to deal with wiring up an efi harness
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has anyone ever used one of those efi conversions for a four barrel carb on an l28? something like this http://www.jeep4x4center.com/tbi-kit-emissions-legal-304-360-401-v8-k247jpv8.html http://hamiltonfuelinjection.com/products/1-throttle-body-injection-kit.aspx
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anyone ever just strap sr20det pistons in an l28 with l24 rods? they have the same bore so no need to change anything in the block....
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I dont need a perfect engine but am looking for something that has no issues or issues that are known and reasonably easy to fix... engine must have at least wiring harness including ecu, intake, distributor, j-pipe
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has anyone put the fuel injected l28 from a 280z or an early zx ( not turbo charged) in a 240z? I'm having trouble wiring the beast...
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how do i connect the 79 280zx wiring harness from the engine bay to the wiring harness thats in the dash? also theres a small single rectangular prong connector coming off of the wiring harness right next to where the harness goes into the ecu, what is this for? anyone have a color coded/really good 280zx wiring diagram? i have a decent one for the 240z from my haynes manual...
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clocker, which por-15 do you think is best? the engine painting kit or the truck liner kit? (common sense is telling me the painting kit might be more fictive but the truck liner kit will be a bit heavier duty and look better…) i can probably sand the engine bay and give it a decent paint job myself but there isn't time/money to get it into a paintshop and have them do the engine bay… I like the look of a good flat black paint job for the engine bay, i think it helps to hide wires and dirt….. think with a kit from pro-15 and a good sanding it can be done? it has a pretty shitty half flat/half regular black paint job in there now that the previous owner did which I'm not a fan of... ill look into that waxoyl, i want to keep this car for a while...
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realized i haven't even gotten pics of the l28 up so here's what I've got... engine has cut up wiring and is missing it's ecu and maf/intake but those parts are on the way... also saw this online and was quite interested….. id love to have an engine bay that clean swell as a painted (I'm assuming is hydrographics? but i have no clue..) valve cover thats original….anyone have tips for keeping an engine bay that clean?
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the car has about 20 miles on salted roads, but you are right it probably is rusting faster than i think… any way to at least slow it down on the z? just pain the entire undercarriage in por-15? already got the engine, I'm going efi…. an other reason for efi include the possibility of doing the turbo and gaining some good power so the car can keep up with some modern cars, if this was a weekend cruising car then i agree that the carbs sort of add to the experience but I'm trying to add a bit of range to the car, its not 100% a sports car in its DNA and its not 100% a grand tourer, i think 100/150hp and some work will help bring out both of those aspects (I'm hoping the turbo quiets the exhaust to make the car a bit quieter/more enjoyable for highway driving) and the power speaks for itself….
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while this should be true, I've had terrible luck/experiences with my l24, theres a lot of bad wiring, the carbs are terribly tuned and every time i try and get someone to tune it they get worse and it just doesn't work/ start when its cold out…. i think when done right the fuel injected engine can be more reliable although have more areas to have errors in… part of the reason for doing the swap is to put good, reliable parts in it to make the car as a whole more reliable
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more pics to come just finished with midterms so more time for the car, honestly its pretty hard to drive when the weather is bad so it doesn't really go out in the now/when there is salt on the road but whats the point of owning a car you love if you don't get to use it as much as possible?
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im really open to anything, im turboing an l28 and want to switch to ms before getting the turbo going, the more complete the set up the better, i prefer ms2 but im open to all offers, pm me or post im on the east coast btw
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oldandy do you have a link to the build thread? didnt find one of a 240z...
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hahaha we can get through this together man! yea ill check it out now, yea i looked back at it and i dont think its worth the money, even though ms is just so dam expensive!!
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is it worth spending the money on megasquirt or just getting a performance chip from MSA? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic18i its about 400$ cheaper than megasquirt not to mention alot less time / stress but i want to know if itll be good for 260/300 hp i know alot of the power on a basic turbo set up comes from proper tuning
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I'm pretty new to this forum but I wanted to start a build log for my car so i can document my progress and hopefully get some tips along the way so i can truly get the most out of my car. A little backstory on the car and the swap is that there are few people in New Jersey who really know how to take care of these cars and tune the Su's properly and webers also proved to be quite rare and i wanted something a bit more reliable. My car had been breaking down going lean, going rich, backfiring, all sorts of engine problems that i just didnt want to deal with so i thought id upgrade to fuel injection...being 18 and having this as my only car i need something that i can get around in and wont die on me. So im starting with my 240, taking the l24 out along with the terrible wiring the previous owner did, and putting all new wiring in along with an l28e thats going to be spruced up a bit in the coming weeks, once everything is running and well, im going to ditch the ecu, put in megasquirt dial it in, then turbo the engine, i already have a turbo manifold, im working on getting a turbo dizzy, and oil pan. Today is day 1, the car is covered in snow, and the l28 just arrived itll probably be a few weeks before any work can be done because the swap will be done in my mechanics backyard My goal is to have the engine bay look clean maybe not a show stopped but something i can be proud of, horsepower goal is 275 at the wheels Thats what im hoping to get the car to look like any advice before i start? ( ive read the forums hundreds of times and will probably still read them a hundred more) - nzarano
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the l28et will probably be pushing around 270-300 at the wheels the m3 close to 400/430 the m3 is a full 1,000lbs heavier… I'm just trying to gauge the amount of effort/money that goes into an l28et swap and the performance benefits. Ive seen little in the way of numbers when it comes to how fast an l28et swap actually is and am interested in finding out….
