duder280z

Agreed on the backward setup. I was just referring to the APS Audi setup that nizmozed was talking about, it must have a pump.

No they won't work with the drain under pressure. They must be running a small scavenger pump like STS does. This quote is from the STS web sight " The oil is then scavenged from the turbocharger via an electric oil pump which returns the oil to the engines valve cover." A simple and effective solution to low the low mounting point oiling issue.

It seems to me that this setup would have pretty short IC piping with a top mount IC. I've seen some front mounts that have some really long piping. Even if it is longer, the idea that the length of pipe reduces response is mostly a myth. The amount of piping would have to be a lot to really reduce the response time unless you're running a really small turbo and/or giant intake piping. Getting the air from point A to point B really has nothing to do with response time, it's how fast the system can get up to pressure. STS turbo has been running rear mount turbos for years with awesome results and the intake piping runs the full length of the car (and usually through an IC as well). They are pretty well known for great spool up times and good throttle response. On this setup I'd be more worried about the exhaust plumbing and the heat created by it. Just my $.02

I wouldn't be so sure... With a way less than optimal setup, mine mashed through last winter way better than I expected! Great doughnuts and sideways action Good luck with the move!

Wow, way to resurect an old one! I'm glad you did though, otherwise I may have never seen the only G-nose Z that I have ever liked! That thing is amazing

Beautiful! Those rims are SICK! The fronts could use some center caps, but sick none the less I actually liked it better with the black accents, but to each their own...

Yes the 240 bumpers will fit. I've never done it myself, but it is a very comon mod. I believe it just bolts up, might require drilling a hole or two. There are also aftermarket options, but the 240 bumpers are the best IMO.

You could probably make one, but they are easily obtained and really cheap. I got a couple of 'em when I did mine, I figured they were so cheap, why not get a spare. Might have been $1or $2 each. I got mine at autozone. I wouldn't try to silicone, that could get real messy real quick.

With mine, the valve and springs inside were pretty much shot. It wouldn't have sealed right no matter how clean it was. I don't think it's so much a design flaw, as stuff just getting worn out.

It would be more involved, but I would think you could still plug up all the ports internally, then just bolt the outside stuff back on to pass the visual.

You pretty much remove everything that can be removed without cutting. That includes the round part on the bottom and the section in the middle.

Glad to hear your making progress! If there are no other major vacuum leaks, the BCDD delete will cure the RPM drop issue for sure. It is pretty obvious what it is when you take the TB off. It is a roundish, cylinderish sort of thing that looks a bit like a starter solenoid. It is also the only thing hanging off the bottom of the TB, so get a new TB gasket (should cost $1 or so) and just dig in. Don't be shy, anything that is on the under side of the TB that can be removed, goes. There will be 3 or 4 air bleed holes that will need to be plugged. Plug them with anything that will seal the hole and not come loose. I used screws and sealed them in with JB weld. I tapped the holes (that I could) with threads for the screws, but that is probably overkill. After that you will probably have to adjust the big idle screw on the top of the TB when you get it back on the car, but that's about it. My car idles at a perfect 800 RPM now. Before it would go all over the place, up to 1300.

I had high and inconsistent idle issues till I just removed the BCDD. I had to take the TB off, remove the BCDD valve and plugged up all the holes with screws and JB weld. Idles great and consistent now.

+1 For 2K you should be able to find a much more solid car. He's dreaming if he thinks that rust infested thing is worth that much. Typicaly on an old Z, if the rust is that bad on the surface, it's a total nightmare under the paint.

EFI bible. It's the most valuble tool for trouble shooting and general info for the efi system I've found. Try this link http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf It sounds cheesy, but I've had AMAZING results with the CRC product called "guaranteed to pass" fuel system cleaner. A shop I worked at had a shop truck that was made out of an old ambulance and it never passed emissions once in it's life. If you stood behind it while running it would make your eye's burn it ran so rich. The company pumped money into it every year trying to get it to pass, it never did. Until I told them to try guaranteed to pass, if it doesn't work you get your money back anyway (CRC actually does guarantee it). With that stuff it passed no problem. If you try it, follow the directions exactly though. It's totaly worth the $10 to try. Wow, that was more of a rant than intended, but really, it has worked for me on every old piece of crap I have tried it on. Oh, is your car origionaly a CA model? If so, it'd be a good idea to make sure the catalytic converter is still there and working properly. The rest of the country didn't get a cat from the factory, so we don't have to worry about it.