MAG86

Just to add, I think its a v4PLUS as it has 5 auxiliary inputs/outputs. Any one out there??

Hi all, just recently purchased a Wolf3Dv4 incl loom and handcontroller. Came of a VG30det The writing on the case says W3D41015 So I assume its a v4 BUT is it? It could be a v4PLUS, or v400, how do I tell??? I just thought to check, as there are a few different manuals and user guides floating around on the web. I dont want to get it all setup according to one book, then find out I got it either WRONG, or there were MORE featres I could of used. I powered it up today, just with the GRND and 12+ wires. Is there a way to check version? My next move is to splice together a PC data cable. There are a few posts on the RX7 forums showing how to butcher a cable together. (at my work there is a few technicians that can make a pro one for me) Then somehow finding the most appropriate software. (the V500 program is meant to work fine, but the user guide is not easy to get) There is a pc based datalogging software out there somewhere too. NEXT QUESTION: as for tuning, Im in the middle of no-where in Australia, 7hrs from Melbourne, and 3 hrs from Sydney. there are a few local tuners but they arent too interested in such 'old school' technology, so it is $180 per hour to tune. (the car itself cost $400....) SO as for the tuning, is there anyone with a map saved on the pc that I can copy and use as a base? I have a L24e with MN47 head. L28et turbo manifold L28e intake manifold 270cc hosetail injectors Bosch 040 high pressure fuel pump RB20det turbo (recently rebuilt, nearly new), split dump-pipe (down pipe) and 3 inch to 2.75 inch stainless mandrel bend exhaust 60+mm KA24e Throttle Body 2.5 inch cooler piping FORD turbo intercooler (ozzie made, well flowing, go0d up to 220kW at the wheels on a 4 litre engine) With the compression being around 8.7:1 Im only looking to run 6 to 8psi, also the N47 head has a few quench issues under boost (likes to detonate) I do have the L28et Distributor with the CAS/chopper wheel built in, and also the turbo oil pump and dissy drive shaft to suit. I am having trouble wiring it up though, I have a single coil but looking int useing a 3 coil setup. So its a basic turbo setup on an L24. no camshaft (yet... next thread for that) Not going super power, just reliable daily driver with a bit of kick Aiming for 150 to 200 HP at the wheels (nice upgrade from the current 70 HP at the last club dyno day.. much embarrasment) AND FINALLY: For the oxygen sensor, is there one to keep an eye out for that is best? Ive seen a few wideband units about, but I have no idea if this version of ECU will take one. Sorry for hte long speil, its jsut the support of this ECU is really hard to get out here, the web page is fairly descriptive, but actual support... nuffin.

howler monkey... can you elaborate a bit more on your setup???? Im a bit confused, I always thought the stock L24e injectors were too small to run boost? and any idea of your compression ratio? I currently have a L24e with N47 head in mt series 2 R30 skyline, very similar to your maxima. Will be bolting some turbo gear on in a few weeks In Australia too!

the RB30 N/a Injects are very much the same as the L24e & L28e. the 4 middle injectors will fit a L series on a RB fuel rail, but the outer 2 will be 3 or 4 cm off. pallnets fuel rails are top shelf, seen them on stagefumers buildup (another newzealender) unsure of pricing, and what your intentions are, but the hose tail injectors from the RB30et and L28et and also the VG30et (Z31 300zxt) are all bolt in on th L6, no need for new rail. All the above injects are around the 250 to 270 flow rate, good for aroud 190kw MAX... (300HP) after that you will need o-ring injecotrs, like the 440cc GTR ones mentioned.

whats good about an E31???? I have 2 here in Melbourne, plus a L20Aet crank etc... Will be looking at getting rid of them. (shipping will be a fair bit though)

The gun E88 head is off a series 1 1981 to late 1983 MR30 skyline, they come in a sedan and a hatch. They are very similar to the USA Maxima... The series 2 MR30 skyline has a N47, which is ok for some things but not good for mass power (it has steel pipes welded in the exh. outlets that glow red & burn the unused fuel etc... they also increase low rpm gas velocity exiting the head... so im told!) The E88 is better for mass power than the N47 the heads usually go for $50 to $100 at the wreckers, but need rebuilding etc. You can pickup a whole MR30 skyline for $300 to $900, strip the goodies, sell the wheels of, then get it towed and $200 cash in hand from the scrap mental yard... ! know as i have done this a few times before! In VIC I have a few engines here & there... I have actually bought a series 1 MR30 for $50.... just havnt picked it up as theres no where to store it. I will be coming up th the ACT for Duntroon selection in Sept, so I can bring something up for ya if I can get it.

I have x 2 L20aET cranks here... infact a whole L20et! In relation to the 1st post, the E-30 you have is most likely off a 240k with a carby setup L24. They usually have the injector holes cut in too. They dont really flow much at all compared to the N42 on your L28 I would use the N42 over the E30 anyday.... A good cleanup of the ports, and polish the exhaust valves and bob's ya uncle Also if you need some expert aussie advice, Stewart Wilkins Motorsport 6/16 Wingate Rd Mulgrave Sydney New South Wales Australia 2756 Phone: 02 45772400 http://www.swmotorsport.com/

1. Connect the green and brown wires off of the FI harness to power 2. Hook up the EFI relay to 12v switched power, (this is the b/w wire and you connect that to the blue/red wire in the little plug by the brown and green wire) There are five wires in that one plug, only use the b/w and blue/red, 3. For the ignitor and ignition harness only use the b/w wire again and the yellow wire. (DONT cut the yellow/white wire that goes to your ignitor.) The yellow wire goes to the starter signal wire, and the b/w goes to the blue/red wire and thats it, an easy way is br and g go to 12v, b/w from ignitor and from EFI relay go to blue/red wire and then hook up your own fuel pump relay, and it will work ill post pics later <---- I GET LOST IN THIS SECTION....

for Australia, a twin turbo setup on a L24e would cost you well over $10,000 easily, as youd need all the supporting groundwork to keep it all together, not to mention heat control issues and boost control, a gearbox that could tackle it, and all sorts of stuff. in short its not worth it, thw only up-side would be the wank factor it would be EASIER to get a RB30e and add a $3000 turbo suetup to that, and have fun with 320HP at a third of the price. add a twin cam head to that to make a RB30det for an extra $2000 or so and you could hit the 280kw mark with ease. Stewar Wilkins Racing in Syd has a specialist workshop, classic Z car restorer etc. If you google him you can call him up and ask as many silly questions you want...

He has a HR30 sedan with a stock L20et. Will be putting in a L24e from an Aussie MR30 no drilling etc required, just swap the sumps over, so you have a turbo oil drain and not have to go custom. the manifolds bolt straight on no problems just make sure you swap the turbo oil pump in too as the turbo dizzy only connects to the turbo oil shaft