Klmykvl

Update: I was able to see that there was a short in the circuit with the green wire coming off the fuse box. I disconnected the 3 pod gauges and there is no longer a short. Wondering if my gauges might have an issue internally or with the regulator.

Hey guys, Hoping to get some advice on a new issue I'm experiencing. My car is blowing fuses 2,3 and 8, but the odd thing is it only happens after driving around for a while. I can't find any obvious shorts. The car has been swapped with an RB25 and is using the RB25 alternator with internal regulator. Has anyone experienced anything like this before? I don't even believe the 3 circuits share a power source so I am stumped.

I used CX Racing mounts, and oil pan for my RB25 swap and don't have any complaints a year later. Can't speak on their inter cooler or piping

I have an RB25det that I'm getting ready to do a timing belt replacement on. I've read that some people retard the exhaust cam timing to create more power/better turbo response. Has anyone had experience with this?

I have a combo switch that will need to be rebuilt. One of the connections has come loose. I've looked at it but it is missing 1 of the contact springs. Could be rebuilt by someone with more patience than I. I also have a good used turn signal switch. Combo Switch 100 shipped Turn Signal Switch 125 Shipped Willing to sell both for $175 Shipped.

Does anyone have a metal suction pipe for an RB25 they would like to get rid of?

Do you still have the diff?

Front bumper -$150 Hood -$40 Slotted Mag Wheels- $120

Thanks for the info. I will have to look into that, as I am currently experiencing a code 34.

Turns out it was my tps wiring causing the issue. Now I will sometimes have issues with the idle hunting or the engine stalling when coming to a stop sign. I am currently cleaning my IAC to see if that may help.

Replied.

Hey All, I have a straight 240z bumper that was painted black at some point in it's life. In good shape. I also have the bumper brackets if you need them. Have a hood from a 73 240z as well, one decent dent. Probably repairable if you're willing Bumper $175 - Local pickup in West Sacramento Brackets $50 - Shipped Hood $60 - Local Pickup in West Sacramento

Hi guys, I've been searching around for a while to see if anyone has experienced a similar issue. I have a Stock series 2 RB25det in my 240z running on a wiring specialities pro harness. Stock ecu, HVLP to surge tank to Walbro 255. The issue I am experiencing: When going hard into boost (70% + throttle) the car will sometimes stutter hard. It feels as if the motor actually shuts down but if I coast for a few seconds with my foot off the throttle power comes back. I can ease into throttle and boost fine. The car will also sometimes die as I coast to a stop. Here is what I've done this past week to try and resolve the issue: New copper spark plugs gapped to .028 Verified timing is 15 BTDC Cleaned the MAF Calibrated the TPS Has anyone experienced this issue before? Is there anything I've missed? Any help would be much appreciated.

Does anyone have an extra oil pressure sender from a 240-280z? Could really use one right about now.

Does anyone know what size hose will fit the Coolant inlet on the RB25? It seems to be larger than the outlet diameter. I'm thinking it would be about 2 inches, but wondering what everyone else has used. My radiator accepts about 1.5. I searched around and saw that some people were able to use the stock 240z hose but that seems like it would not work for me. Thanks.