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The car runs and drives okay. Still haven't gone through much of the fuel tables. Can't seem to get the timing to adjust electronically through the megasquirt. I can set the timing mechanically but I can't get it to advance or regard through the megasquirt. I've adjusted the trigger angle and that doesn't seem to sway it either way. I have an 85 300zx turbo with a completely stock ignition system. MS2/Extra firmware: 3.3.0 I've read all over about controlling spark with distributors and an ignition coil /power transistor, but I can't seem to get it to do what I want. Any advice would be amazing.

I have two 50th anniversary keys that are uncut for sale in the oem box from Nissan with plastic wrap still in tact. One is sold. Still have one left. Need these gone asap for bills ):

Looking for a stock T3, 81-83 280zx or 84-86 300zx T3 turbo. Good condition and functional preferred, but interested in turbos needing a rebuild as well. Additionally, I'm interested in a functional well working t3/t4 hybrid for separate Z project. Thanks fellas!

Currently working on my first project car; a 1993 Nissan 300zx Z32. The car came as an NA 2+2 shell, so instead of rebuilding the measly VG30DE, I decided to swap in an LS series engine. Parts list is as follows 300zx LS swap LM7 5.3L Engine- $500- BOUGHT LOJ Swap kit- $2,700 My total- $435 Mounting Custom trans bracket Custom shifter bracket Custom alternator bracket Custom accessory bracket Cut/balanced driveshaft- Universal Automotive- $85 http://www.universalautomotiveconcordnc.com/index.html Accessories ACDelco F body water pump- $100 Fluids JEGS oil pan- $170 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/50228/10002/-1 JEGS oil pickup- $40 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/50247/10002/-1 Griffin Radiator PN 1-25241-X- $180 Ebay GM oil filler neck PN 12570623- $10 http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-12570623-Oil-Filler-Tube/dp/B00GV8O6I2 ACDelco fuel cap PN FC208- $10 http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-FC208-Original-Equipment-Engine/dp/B000C9TTJM/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XZWE2S8NQKEGFR24B88 Electrical Stock wiring harness with PCM reflash Battery AC Delco spark plugs PN 41-110- $40 Ebay Coolant temp sensor ACDelco- $20 Ebay Exhaust Trailblazer SS manifolds- $150 Custom header-back exhaust Misc. Hose clamps Fuel, oil, coolant, and vacuum lines. Wire, connectors, electrical tape Power/rebuild Stock (LS1, LS6, 6.0L) camshaft- $140 Machine work- $100 Cam bore bearings (waiting on sizing)- $40 Clutch fork boot- $15 https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-fork-boot-z32-30542-31g10_p_1936.php Input shaft seal- $10 https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-manual-transmission-seal-front-input-shaft-z32-32114-y4000_p_2574.php Rear output shaft seal- $15 https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-rear-transmission-output-driveshaft-input-seal-90-96-z32-32136-01g10_p_2375.php Remaining- $1,090 Purchased Victor Reinz gasket kit- $130- BOUGHT Ebay ARC switch panel- $55- BOUGHT EZ wiring standalone chassis wiring harness- $200- BOUGHT *May require additional circuits, switches ACT 6 puck clutch/pressure plate- $200 BOUGHT *May not work with adapter plate/flywheel Speed Engineering motor mounts- $80- BOUGHT Custom adapter with lightweight flywheel- $100- BOUGHT *Still need to repair, balance, and re-make F-body harmonic balancer- $60- BOUGHT Spent- $825 The order of things Machine work $100 Cam bearings- $40 LS1 camshaft- $140 Build adapter plate AC Delco spark plugs PN 41-110- $40 Trailblazer SS manifolds- $150 Jegs oil pickup- $40 Jegs oil pan- $170 Coolant temp sensor- $20 Weld motor mounts Mount engine Transmission seals, clutch fork boot, sensors Transmission mount Shifter linkage Driveshaft shortening- $85 Alternator bracket Accessory bracket F body water pump- $100 Accessory belt- $20 Griffin radiator- $180 GM oil filler neck-$10 ACDelco oil cap- $10 Oil Battery- $200 Front brake rebuild- $50 Stoptech brake lines- $130 Wiring Tune Start car Subsitutions LS6 camshaft- $160 Scram Speed alternator bracket/Gm LS1 bracket- $140 *Uses truck accessories Dayco Serpentine belt PN 5060685 *If using truck accessories Goodyear Serpentine belt PN 4060695 *If using LS1 idler pulley Corvette water pump PN 252-781- $100* Corvette harmonic balancer-$150* *These are only to be used in conjunction with each other, if truck accessories cannot be utilized. Victor Reinz valve cover gaskets PN 695-VS50250 - $30 Ebay Victor Reinz MLS head gaskets-$40x2= $80 http://www.jegs.com/i/Clevite/695/54441/10002/-1 Fel-Pro MLS intake manifold gaskets- $60 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms98016t/overview/make/chevrolet WIX 24766 Oil filter base- $40 http://www.amazon.com/Wix-24766-Filter-Mounting-Base/dp/B000CSIO1C OR Speedway Motors 720-1029 Oil filter base- $20 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Single-Remote-Oil-Filter-Bracket-Vertical-Outlet-13-16-16-Thread,31462.html NA clutch/pressure plate Moroso LS oil pan PN 20140- $240 requires notching of tabs on subframe http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20140 Moroso oil pickup PN 24050- $50, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-24050 Moroso 93152 oil pan gasket- $40 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93152 Chevy windage tray PN NAL-12558253- $30, requires modification http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12558253 Vibrant 90 degree reinforced silicone elbow- $75 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-2748/overview/ K&N Air filter- $60 Warlbro 255lph fuel pump- $75 Ebay CX racing V mount radiator kit with 2 12” fans- $350 http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=KIT-RAD-LS-Z32-RAD016&Category_Code=300ZX Stock LS wiring harness with PCM reflash from HP Tuners- $250 with new PCM http://www.wiringspecialties.com/prlsxtoz3230.html Resources 3V performance machine shop http://3vperformance.net/ LS6 cam spring guide Yellow= 02-04 ls6, 05-07 ls2, good for .551 lift..... Blue= 01 ls6 good for .525 lift. JShull's LQ4 swap http://www.tennspeed.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16532 Vode An’s single turbo LM4 swap http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109763-ls-powered-single-turbo-300zx-z32/ LS how-to http://ls1howto.com/ LOJ’s R&D http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=219340 LSX differences http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.html LT1 swap wiring http://lt1swap.com/ Track 300zx build http://community.rat...-300zx-project/ Alternator relocation http://www.kwikperf.com/lsx_alt_ps.html General LS swap http://www.dragzine....ide-the-basics/ 300zx hard data http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/stats/mtjune91.html LS engine component specs http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php Camshaft basics http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/0607phr-camshaft-basics/ Camshaft overlap calculator http://www.wallaceracing.com/overlap-calc.php

Ive been looking for a few hours now and i cant find what im looking for anywhere. Something i need to get out of the way, im not going to use toyota brakes... thats not what im looking for. What i would like to do is put z32 (or z31 5 lug) wheel hub, rotars, and calipers on my 1981 280zx turbo. My thought and question is, can i take off my 4 lug wheel hub and bolt on a z32 5 lug hub, then bolt directly on z32 4 piston stock brakes. I plan on doing 5 lug 15 inch wheels so I should have clearance but i dont know if everything will line up. I dont want to spend more than $500 on the brake conversion but I can go higher if i need to.

Looks like the starter on my 1975 280z is going bad and before looking for a 280z starter I was wondering if there were any upgrades. I found another forum where someone mentions that a 300zx starter fits the 280z but it's an old post and no one ever went into detail or talked or asked about it after that one suggestion. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about doing this, would it just be a straight bolt on? Would it require any kind of rewiring? Should I just stick with a 280z starter? Thanks in advance!

I'm getting tired of the vibrations and broken U-joints associated with the stock half shafts so it's time for an upgrade. I'm looking for a pair of CV axles from either a 280zx turbo or a 300zx turbo. Post here or PM me about anything you've got. Thanks in advance!

Hello all, I am looking for a 1996 Nissan 300ZX 4 passenger Driver side window. Please, contact me at your earliest convenience. Thank you.

By chance has anyone on this site changed the gear ratio of a 1989-1996 Q45 differential? My project is to change the 3.54 gears in a Q45 differential to the 4.08 gears from a NA 300ZX. The Q45 differential is currently installed behind an LT1 and 700r4 transmission in a 1976 280Z. Thank you to anyone who may be able to give me some information.

I am swapping a VG30E into a 1975 280z. I'm doing a megasquirt setup and I am wondering if anyone has a base map that they would be willing to share with me for the VG.

I have recently rebuilt the VG30E that is in my 1985 300zx, NA and automatic. It was a stock rebuild with a rebuild kit except for the cams, which were replaced by a Wolf Technologies AZ314-000S1. Because of the new cams I also opted for a 1987 ECCS with JECS#: A18-679 M83 with nistune installed. The engine has been assembled for a couple weeks now and it's still having problems. It will fire and it seems like the timing isn't set right. We have gotten it to run long enough to hopefully break in the cams, but it has rpm fluctuations under throttle and wont idle. The current thinking is that there is a problem between the new ECCS and the 1985 wiring harness but we have tried changing some pins that we thought were incorrect, like the injector wiring into the ECCS, and it performed worse after. We are back where we started. There is also a possible problem with stock map installed with the nistune software and whether or not that is affecting it. We are using the stock bin file for a 1988 NA automatic and don't know if that could be causing a issue Any help or advice would be much appreciated. If there's anything else that would help find a solution, please ask and I'd be happy to answer.

Hey guys, I'm having idle issues where I can't keep the car running and it never seems to want to catch. Either it runs too rich and dies or runs too lean and runs very badly. I have to keep steady pressure on the throttle to keep it from dying. Clearly that means that I need more air, so I would lower my VE values and it wouldn't seem to help any. The car ran better and would actually idle around 600rpm with all the idle valves on the plenum, but none of them were wired up. I've since took them all out, as well as the egr valve, and blocked all the holes off. I have my tune and a few datalogs. The datalog labeled IDLE(not idle1 or idle2) is when the car had the idle valves on the car but not wired up to anything. The others are without the idle valves. My injector PW seems very jumpy as well as the dead time. I have them grounded directly to the MS. They are low z injectors so I chose to limit the current in TunerStudios instead of using drop resistors. I made sure no ground wire or sensor wire was in contact with any noise issues(dizzy, spark plug wires, coil). I messed with the ASE and WUE to try and stabalize my afr's and keep the damn thing running, but I've had no luck with it so far. I have an MS2/Extra v3.57 Firmware 3.3.0 straight from DIY. CurrentTune1.zip idle.zip idle1.zip idle3.zip

Hey fella's, I'd like to introduce myself and my project. I am transforming my 1990 Nissan 300ZX N/A from completely stock to a VH45 monster. I plan on having this car my model car for the custom VH parts I am selling. Custom parts that I have already designed are: intake flanges, engine mounts, and throttle body plates. I am still working on the oil pan flange as well as the custom intake manifold and transmission adapter plate. I also have some other odd's-n-ends on my website. Engine: '91 VH45DE rebuilt to stock specs PerformanceVH Z32 Engine Mount Kit PerformanceVH Intake Manifold Custom Top Feed Fuel Rail 36# (370cc) Bosch Injectors PerformanceVH Rear Sump Oil Pan Custom Headers Trans: '90 Z32 N/A 5-Speed Chromoly Lightweight Flywheel Short-Throw Shifter Brakes: SRT-8 Front Brembo Calipers SRT-8 Steel Braided Hoses 370Z Nismo Front Rotors 370Z Nismo Rear Rotors N/A Front Calipers adapted to Rear Suspension: Urethane Bushings Powertrix SS Coilovers Powertrix Adjustable Arm Kit Exterior: Wingswest Front Urethane Bumper TBO Sideskirts TwinZ Type II Rear Bumper TwinZ Roof Spoiler Winfactory CSL-R Spoiler Night Garage Style Rear Fender Flares Wheels: Varrstoen 2.2.1. Matte Black Front: 18x9.5 Rear: 18x10.5 That's just a small parts list off the top of my head. Here are some pictures of my progress so far.

Want good condition ecu. Would like harnesz as well. Looking for maf as well

My father built this car in the early 2000's as a street/grudge car.. he sold it on ebay in 2008 to an owner I have been in contact with, and it has since changed hands who knows how many times I think it may reside in florida, the guy I was in touch with said the person he sold it to had it in florida. Really doubtful that anyone will be of any help but I figured why not. If anyone is interested on his setup ask away and i'll share more details or ask him if he remembers lol. Thanks

So I'm having trouble picking out which conversion kit for my z but I'm stuck between two kits can someone who has done the setup suggest which kit I should get. And if anyone has used the cxracing conversion kit give me feedback on it thanks.

I purchased two Z31T CV axles from two wrecking yards for my 240z rear end swap. One of them came with a grease cap and the other didn't. Does anyone know of any universal cap that might fit or does anyone have a axle with a broken housing or something that would be willing to give up their cap?

OK this is my first post here; I guess I should introduce myself. My name is Cody Green. I am a car builder. I work at a Hot Rod Shop, and a Junkyard. I love all things mechanical. I’m a family man, and a Christian. That about sums things up quickly. Anyways, I'm always looking to educate myself and find good reads. I have owned many cars in my life, but the one that taught me the most was my 1990 300zx Twin Turbo. I got it when I was 18. It was a lemon. It was the kind of car you had to fix something on every weekend. I finally gave up on it and sold it to another guy. It left a hole in me. I tried to fill it with a 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS/SC. But FWD FTL. Then I bought a 1992 Nissan 240zx. It was a great little car. Fun, but there are a million of them everywhere, and they are not the most respected car. After I was done with school I began to look for another Z. I wanted a beater. I wanted a cancer free body but the rest didn’t matter. I wanted to do a full restoration. And a beater I felt would be a great starting point for something that will go under the knife. I landed on a red 1990 NA with 176,000 miles for $1500. This is the first NA I have ever driven. It’s definitely much slower than a TT but that is a no brainer. I love the LSX engine. It’s a fantastic base for a build. Good oiling system, Good structural rigidity, Heads that move air, yet keep velocity, and a massive aftermarket. So it’s also is no brainer for a replacement to the Vg30de. I have searched and searched and found very few Completed builds. I get this is not the easiest chassis to swap engines into. This is probably due to the fact that the z32 was one of the first cars to be designed with CAD. I watched a Japanese film years ago on Nissans build of the z32. If my memory serves me right they designed, built, and tested the engine first. And then they literally built the car around the Engine. This is the reason engine swaps are sooooo difficult on the z32. And also why the Engine bay is so cramped. This is why so many try and so many give up. Well I’m done giving up. I say CHALLENGE ACCEPTED! But before i started my build, i need to compile as much information as i can about others builds. I realized this would not only be a great help to myself but many many others. The route i would like to take is to not cut the firewall or tranny tunnel. Much like many others. I instead would like lower the K member. Not by hacking it up, but by building a jig that i can then build a new k member that will better fit a factory or aftermarket pan. Which brings me to my next point. Oil Pans... Guys i know im just one guy saying this but lets use some common sense for a moment. You gotta have a rear sump pan, on any project you got that is going to be used for any kind of racing. I know the S Chassis (240sx) guys use those front sump pans all the time. But for anyone who takes racing seriously. And anyone who is going to use there cars in a performance environment. You just gotta have a rear sump pan. Maybe you think im crazy, but a lot of really smart people, and great racers agree with me. Here is a real easy test you can do if you want to know why you need one. Get a front sump pan and fill it with the ammount of oil it would hold when installed. Now get in your buddys fast car, and bring lots of dry soak and shop towels as well as a change of clothes. Now you sit shotgun and hold the pan in relation to how it would sit in the car. now have your buddy floor the car. You can have all the baffles and trap doors you want. But when you hit the gas. That oil is goin to the back. If your just on the street and daily driving a front sump is just fine. but if you are ever gonna do any kind of racing with your car, get a rear sump. Or get a dry sump and never worry! Whew... Im done ranting. I would like the help of everyone to compile a list of links to successful LS swapped z32 builds. There are so many incomplete builds out there. Let’s do ourselves a favor and make a list of completed builds we can all use as a reference. I'll start. This one is really only a good picture reference... but atleast it was completed http://www.aussiev8.com.au/conversions-rebuilds-project-cars/53583-300zx-ls1-build.html This one has some decent pictures, and some info. But the car got hacked up a little more than i would like mine to be. http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1499444-my-build-pics-1990-300zx-ls1-t56.html This one is not finished but holy cow does he have a ton of pics! http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1636133-1990-300zx-lsz-pic-heavy-180-a.html Another near finished one, but its TURBO'D http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1605916-91-300zx-ls-t56-swap-2.html I'd Like to thank anyone in advance for any help.

So yesterday I was on my way home and my ABS light came on. This was disconcerting since it's NEVER come on before, not in the 17 years I've had the car. So I was looking into the symptoms and aside from the light, there's a hum of a motor coming from the back right rear of the car. Shutting off the car clears the ABS light temporarily, but it comes back on after a few minutes even at idle. I checked the ABS fuse and it's good, I pulled the fuse and the hum continues. I do still have brakes so that's good, but the motor noise continues even with the key off and out of the ignition. I was worried I'd run the batter down so I got a wrench and disconnected the negative cable. Today I read around a bit and it seems this is a fairly common issue we'll see more of. The ABS relay apparently can get old and get stuck. Tonight I will open the panel and rap on the relay then reconnect the power and see if the ABS pump still is humming. If so I'll pull the relay and it should from all accounts stop. If that's the case I'll order the $50 relay and be done with it. If a new relay doesn't fix the issue then it could be the wheel sensors or some other part. I'll have to break out the FSM to see how it's tested. Failing that it's a dealer diagnosis. I'd much rather do it myself than pay someone to guess at the issue. There are some savvy Z32 mechanics around, but even at Nissan, the newer mechanics have barely touched these older Z cars. I'll let you guys know what I find out and hopefully snap some pictures in the process. Phar

So I've got a couple other threads about Printing car parts on my 3d printer. Well on my 300zx, the upper window pin again broke yesterday. This allows air to whistle while driving and water to leak in with the rain. I'm tired of tearing the door apare to fix a cheaply made part. So, I started looking into what can be done to fix this issue. Well the stock pin has a white plastic ring around a metal ball end, allowing for some movement. The plastic is what breaks. I looked at it and figures a 5/16" washer would almost fit over the ball portion, but would not fit past it. That woudl be enough to hold the pin in place, but I'm not certain if it required much more than that to keep it from rattling or wearing badly. I got into PTC Creo and desiged a new round bottom portion which would allow the pin to slide in the track AND incorporate the 5/16" washer. I printed it up on my Mendel Prusa 3d printer at .1mm layer height, and a .5mm nozzle. at 80% infill. This created a very strong part with a little xacto persuasion I was able to fit the stock metal door pin and now I've got a new slider made from ABS which should work well. The phillips head is lightly recessed for grease to fill and I will glue the washer into place. This looks like a very good solution for a part that breaks all too often. If you end up needing one of these, let me know, I'll sell it cheap. picts below: I'll add more picts when I get to install it probably this weekend. Phar

HI , i have a 300zx tt with a automatic. recently i was driving then i lost all power and all my gears went out. car would not move in 1st, 2nd, drive or reverse. transmission fluid was good in the car. makes a whining noise now update: replaced the oem automatic transmission fluid strainer now next problem to tackle is transmission dies under idle

TLDR: Z31 turbo, want a 0-60 time of around 5 seconds and want to modify to whatever hp this requires. ~$2,000 to spend. Advice? I am looking at a 1985 300zx turbo and have a few questions... I intend on dailying the car mostly but have a '73 240z to cruise in when this is out of commission (swapped in a different L24 with a friend so I have experience wrenching on cars, just not efi) My funds would be split between this and the 240z so realistically my budget is around $2,000 not including the car I don't like setting a whp goal since its kind of arbitrary due to weight/diff ratio/dyno/etc differences I am looking for a 0-60 around 5.0 seconds (e46 m3, 07 STI, 350z, etc range) 1) Is this realistic? Given my experience level (want to do all work myself), budget, and drivetrain 2) If so around how much whp is a good goal? I'm thinking in the 250-300whp range? 3) If that estimate is realistic then are these modifications sufficient? My plans are as follows: Basic maintenance(t-belt, plugs, wires, etc) Stock bottom/top end Stock Fuel system Stock ECU Either maxing out T3 turbo or installing an HY35 I have MBC set to 13-18psi (what ever will net my hp goals) Ebay intercooler/piping stock intake K&N intake filter w/ resonator removed 3" turbo back exhaust w/ hiflow cat CA 91 Octane fuel (would love to run E85 but stock fuel system will be strained already without 30% more demand for fuel) possibly MLS hg/ARP studs just for insurance? I think I've been reading too much and have gotten a little over saturated. Some people say you NEED this or that, and I've seen too many conflicting opinions. I've looked at TONS of dyno sheets and stuff on Z31.com/Z31performance's dyno section, but most of those guys are way over my output goals. Sorry if I sound like just another kid asking what the minimum I can do for X amount of HP is, but I've read so many posts of people saying they made 300whp on stock ECU/long block/fuel system and am just wondering what is necessary/a good idea to upgrade to have a pretty reliable setup for my goals. Thanks in advance!! Adrian

I am fitting the Techno Toy rear end conversion to my 260z. I have sourced the donor components from a z32 300zx but decided to shorten the axles myself as the cost of sending over and back to US from Aus was prohibitive. I have read all I can about this subject but i get conflicting opinions from both the threads on here and elsewhere and as there are a number of different axles / spline assemblies it is very type specific. My setup has an R230 VLSD with the 5 spoke diff stub axle outputs. These match to the 5 spoke CV shafts which are different lengths due to the Diff offset in the 300zx (RHS is longer). I have found a shop which will make me up new shafts, not a problem (I can't re-use the shafts I have as they narrow down in the section where I would need to cut the new splines). My problem is dismantling the wheel side CV assembly. The diff side is no problem - snap ring off, turn the assembly, balls drop out etc... But the manual says the wheel side cannot be dismantled then proceeds to say it can be taken off the shaft by using a slide hammer pulling on the wheel stub nut to pull the assembly off the shaft. Now, I may be missing the point completely but I can't see any way looking at the assembly that this can be done without breaking the circlip that holds the splined end into the ball race? The assembly casing looks close welded to me. Does anyone know how this can be done? Also, how do you re-install it ? Does the casing come apart when you give it enough welly? This latter action is the only way I can see that the shaft can be exposed and the cir clip then taken off ( and re-installed) but I can't see a joint on the assembly. If this is a factory sealed unit and thus can't be taken apart at all then does any Z'der in Aus know a CV manufacturer who will make new complete axles? Pics attached. Thanks all.

looking for a clsd 3.7 or 3.5 diff from a 84'-89' 300zx .

hey guys. just joined thought id post my car up show some of you what ive done. this is my 91 Z 2+2. i pulled a 94 q45 VH motor from the junk yard. tore it apart and went through it with a fine tooth comb. clean the motor out, replaced every gasket and o-ring posibble, and hope when i dropped it in it would run. and it did. so its 94 vh45de motor. bone stock besides 3inch straight pipe and cold air. TT trans with an adapter plate. stock shaft, stock diff, just aggressively welded. K-sport coilover, adjustable camber arms all around, tension rods, energy suspension everything in the rear. modded knuckes and extended tie-rods in the front with extended LCA's. drilled and slotted rotors. dual caliper set up in the rear for the hydro. running the q45 ecu. i custom made my own chassis harness ran everything to toggle switches. inside is completely gutted, i wire-wheeled the sound deadening off the floor for 4 weeks. then primed it. i have a corbeau forza and a evo 8 recaro with a no name and a ABeltCo harness. toggle switch pannel dash with push to start. momo wheel, nrg QR. i flocked the whole dash, took out the cluster, cut a piece of wood the same shape, flocked it and stuck it in there. i just have an apexi tach with a digital engine temp display. 14inch shift knob i welded from scrap metal and a 11inch hydro lever i made from a tension rod i snapped. battery in the hatch with a custom battery box and the fuse box is where the glove box would be, along with the kill switch. i going to keep adding to the car so ill be uploading pictures periodically. doing a full cage, fuel cell, and tube front and rear. im just a street drifter and i go to track events when theyre held. i just do this stuff to my car because i want to, not because i need it because im an FD driver or anything.