Klmykvl

Update: I was able to see that there was a short in the circuit with the green wire coming off the fuse box. I disconnected the 3 pod gauges and there is no longer a short. Wondering if my gauges might have an issue internally or with the regulator.

Hey guys, Hoping to get some advice on a new issue I'm experiencing. My car is blowing fuses 2,3 and 8, but the odd thing is it only happens after driving around for a while. I can't find any obvious shorts. The car has been swapped with an RB25 and is using the RB25 alternator with internal regulator. Has anyone experienced anything like this before? I don't even believe the 3 circuits share a power source so I am stumped.

I used CX Racing mounts, and oil pan for my RB25 swap and don't have any complaints a year later. Can't speak on their inter cooler or piping

I have an RB25det that I'm getting ready to do a timing belt replacement on. I've read that some people retard the exhaust cam timing to create more power/better turbo response. Has anyone had experience with this?

Does anyone have a metal suction pipe for an RB25 they would like to get rid of?

Thanks for the info. I will have to look into that, as I am currently experiencing a code 34.

Turns out it was my tps wiring causing the issue. Now I will sometimes have issues with the idle hunting or the engine stalling when coming to a stop sign. I am currently cleaning my IAC to see if that may help.

Hi guys, I've been searching around for a while to see if anyone has experienced a similar issue. I have a Stock series 2 RB25det in my 240z running on a wiring specialities pro harness. Stock ecu, HVLP to surge tank to Walbro 255. The issue I am experiencing: When going hard into boost (70% + throttle) the car will sometimes stutter hard. It feels as if the motor actually shuts down but if I coast for a few seconds with my foot off the throttle power comes back. I can ease into throttle and boost fine. The car will also sometimes die as I coast to a stop. Here is what I've done this past week to try and resolve the issue: New copper spark plugs gapped to .028 Verified timing is 15 BTDC Cleaned the MAF Calibrated the TPS Has anyone experienced this issue before? Is there anything I've missed? Any help would be much appreciated.

Does anyone have an extra oil pressure sender from a 240-280z? Could really use one right about now.

Does anyone know what size hose will fit the Coolant inlet on the RB25? It seems to be larger than the outlet diameter. I'm thinking it would be about 2 inches, but wondering what everyone else has used. My radiator accepts about 1.5. I searched around and saw that some people were able to use the stock 240z hose but that seems like it would not work for me. Thanks.

I actually did end up finding a rip in the map hose.

Can't seem to find one for the life of my and not sure which if any are interchangeable. Please let me know if you have one you'd be willing to part with.

I'd like to go LED. But I enjoy being able to see the road at night.

I'm curious as well. Have you had a timing light on the crank while someone revs the engine? As the engine revs is there no change in timing?

Setting your base timing in Tuner Studio. How did you come up with your trigger offset of 60 degrees?