burninator

I am mistaken thinking the P series head wasn't available on a 280Z? I thought those only came on the 280ZX. If it wasn't available on a 240Z, 260Z, or 280Z then it's not allowable.

The rules state: I'm not sure how I'd take that rule... you could take that to mean that only the original cylinder head that came on the engine may be used, but since 240s and 280s are listed on the same line in the appendix their engines can be swapped. Does the fact that any engine from the 3 models can be used that their heads can be swapped between them as well? I wonder if it's been protested before. If others are doing it without being protested you could probly get away with it, but you can write the PAC/SEB for clarification: seb@scca.com Anyways, by whatever interpretation of that rule you pick the p-heads are not allowed. That's only because I've never inspected your car. I'll have to school our techs.

I used them in a pretty wide range of ambient temperatures, and also in the rain (where they were surprisingly good). Probly 50-60 on the coldest day and 100+ on the hottest days. They don't seem to require much heat to stick. I don't have a pyrometer, but they certainly got hot to the touch after a couple runs but never felt greasy on the hot days. Can't really comment on how they'd do at a circuit. I have a friend who did a few track days as well as autocross with them on his 911. He likes them as well, but I never heard any specific feedback from him about their performance at the track.

I used NT01s all year autocrossing (short Montana season) and plan on the same ones lasting me through this year. The wear on them has been great and the handling is nice and predictable. I can't compare them to a Hoosier, or a Toyo R888 (as I've never driven on them), but for the price I am impressed.

I can't comment specifically on that brand, I've never heard of them. There are some small shops that make their own products and do a fine job. But for the most part the biggest difference is that the big companies like GReddy spend a lot of money researching and developing their parts. The generic companies then come in and basically copy what the big names are doing. Some with more success than others. Supporting the generic companies that rip off big names is bad for the industry because it takes away money from the big companies that have to spend big money to do the research and move the industry forward. Specifically I mean companies that make "GReddy style" exhausts or "HKS style" blow off valves, that sort of thing. GReddy's parent company Trust has already gone bankrupt once. GReddy US is apparently doing okay, but it's a tough time money wise for everyone.

Nice. I've been thinking of a way to build something like that to attach to my drill. If I come up with anything good I'll post it, but that's not a bad way to go.

What size hone did you pick up? I saw those there, but wasn't sure how much good they'd do. I think I only saw like 1 1/8" and 3" or something (one too big, one too small anyways). I'll probly try just cleaning them out like previously suggested and then try a hone if that doesn't work.

Excellent. Thanks for the advice.

I have some Konis on the way and I will need to at minimum get the paint off of the inside of the tubes to fit them in my 240's struts. What tools have people used to get this done? I've tried to do some searching, but came up with very little. I thought about a flapper style sanding drum, but haven't been able to find one. Does such a thing exist in the 1.75" size?). I've also thought of using a flex hone and can find those in the right size, but I don't know if it will be effective at taking off enough material... I'm almost sure they're just used to smooth out cylinders, not remove much material. Anyways, I haven't found anything suitable for the task at any hardware stores in my area (Lowe's, Ace, Harbor Freight). What are your recommendations?

I'll be the first to say this has been gone over 100s of times. Spend a little time searching. In particular read the faqs section.

Who's recommended repairs are you talking about? I certainly hope you don't mean my recommendations.

Leaning in at the top indicates it has some negative camber and that would usually cause the opposite problem (wearing the inside first) if it's noticeable looking at the tires it might indicate the car is sitting low than the stock ride height. It may also be a problem with the amount of toe. If the rears are toed in it could cause the outside to wear quickly. I don't think there should be any toe in the rear, having some could indicate a problem (potentially something bent). Your driving style could also cause it. If you do a lot of heavy cornering it can cause your tires to wear a lot on the outside. If this is the case you may look into some aftermarket solutions to adjust your alignment in order to keep your tires wearing so fast, and increase performance at the same time. I'd start by taking your car to an alignment shop and get it measured to see if it's within factory spec. Unfortunately neither toe nor camber in the rear are adjustable from the factory. There are however some eccentric bushings you can get from MSA to correct the alignment.

Don't ♥♥♥♥ where you eat.

Just be sure to note that all of the tires in the car and driver test are summer only. I keep pointing that out because you said you wanted somewhat good snow traction. Those tires would be bad for cold weather driving and would be flat dangerous to drive in the snow.

That looks amazing! I love the look of the hood with those louvers there.

If you want something to use in light snow do not get those tires. I have a friend with them on an M3 and they are useless in the snow. Stick to something labeled as an all-season if you want any hope of driving in the snow. As I said before, UTQG rating is manufacturer specific and should not be used to compare tires across brands. An all-season will probly have something over 400. Obviously they aren't going to be as sticky as like a max performance summer only tire. But you won't get stranded in light snow.

I think you really need to qualify your questions if you want any useful results. I assumed you wanted a UHP All season. But I can see that your probly going to get a lot of posts from people who have used such and such a brand in some performance catagory and you can't compare the wear or performance of a standard all season to a something like a UHP tire. Do you want as much grip as possible? Are you looking for an all season? Will you drive it in the snow? How long do you expect it should last? These are the kind of specifics people will need to know if you want useful answers to your question.

I'd start by checking out the tire rack survey. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresult/surveydisplay.jsp?type=UHPAS I think it's a good way to ballpark a tire. Your tire of choice didn't do so hot. But if your going for the exact size 215/35 R17 then it's the only choice in that category. Unless there is a specific reason you've picked that size, I'd start trying to think of different sizes that would work for you. There are very few choices in any category of tire in that size. I personally have had good luck with Dunlops and Bridgestones as my favorite tires. But I have little experience in the Ultra-High-Performance All-Season category. Something to remember is that the treadwear rating is only good comparing one tire brand tires of the same brand. Every company has a different way of rating them.

Well, thanks again for the info. Sounds like it might be better to just go with the Konis, then I have some freedom to try higher rate springs in the future if I want. I'll give it some more though. I'm just not looking forward to installing those Konis.

OK, at the risk of you get tired of helping me make a decision. I don't want to seem like I'm flip flopping, but I convinced the wife that I should just by the shocks I want and budget be damned. Basically I want to get more info about the Tokico HTS vs the Koni SA. I know you sell both so I'm asking for your opinion on which would be better for me. There isn't much info about them except on this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125245&highlight=tokico+hts&page=2 and the strut thread where other than you considering putting together a package only few people have asked about the HTSs but never got any replies. I've done more research on spring rates and I'm thinking about 325# front and 350# rear spring. Would the either be better suited for those rates? And is there anything else about these I should consider? Honestly, I'm mainly thinking about the HTS because they will be an easier fit into the 240's strut tubes. I also like the fact that you said they would require less maintenance.

It would depend on the quality of the weld. A good weld should be plenty strong. Welds are typically stronger than the original around them. If the weld looks good and it's straight I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks, I'll try that. It was either that or try using the air chisel to break them off.

I have my Z's interior gutted, but I still have the brackets that held all the old panels and dash and stuff on. They scare passengers and I get my clothes caught on them when I'm working on stuff. I think I see spot welds on some of them, but not on others. Are they all held on the same way? What's the best way to remove them?

Your right I did say I was on a budget. I just wanted to make sure they weren't going to fail immediately. If they'll last for a while that's what I wanted to know. I'll take it into account when I make my decision. As for the camber plates, I just read that wrong, looking at it again it makes perfect sense. Thanks for the advice.

I'm concerned that they HPs won't be stiff enough. Your recommending 250/225# springs here, but on your site it says they're good for up to 200# springs. Of course on a light weight car that will never see the street it may be fine. I've just read on here that they don't seem much different from stock. Camber plates will have to wait, I'll just hope some eccentric bushings will get me close enough. But if/when I upgrade will EMI camber plates machined for Tokico shocks still work for Konis or are you suggesting I'd upgrade to the Konis first?