davek

73 240Z Stock gauges Megasquirt MS3 running for a few years now. I just finished an electric steering installation. But this issue started before the steering project. Temp sensor to ground test--- Needle works its way to 250 degrees and bounces around a little with voltage pulse. after 15-20 seconds needle drops to 3/4 range and bounces there then back to full hot. back and forth This test and previous test was with MS3 completely disconnected-fuses pulled. While engine running with tunerstudio online temp is normal and steady. To test both temp & pressure gauges I would need to disconnect the wires at the gauges and reconnect with a different power source like straight to a battery, to eliminate all car wiring correct? And if I could get to the wires I need to check voltage feeding the gauges for a pulse. fun fun fun

I understand electrical problems but what causes a sporadic pulse.

Fellas I can start the car and drive a couple minutes when the oil pressure & water temp gage needles work there way to zero rather quickly. At home I connected my voltage meter to the connector at the water temp sensor and to ground. Turned the key on and I get a 0 - 10 volt sporadic pulse. Every 1-2 seconds-I tried to attach video by it says unsuppoeted Same when I hook up to oil pressure sensor. Steady 12.5v at the console fuse. Haven't tried either wires t the gage itself. Probably a itch to get to? any ideas?

Here are the steps I took to make the unit work in my Z Thanks for the drop box mtnickel https://www.dropbox.com/s/uwtsk97izkkz4uo/240Z-steering.pptx?dl=0

Whee I would say it can be duplicated easy enough. You do have to want it. Once you cut up your steering column your committed:) Grannyknot, I can see cutting lap times. Just my spirited driving in the country I can feel myself pushing the turns harder. The fatigue from a longer race would be greatly reduced I would think. both- send me a message with email and I'll send the .ppt via a one of those free large file transfer sites. its 35 meg Here's a tidbit I couldn't fine on a forum. ------I ran 10ga wire with 30a inline fuse straight from a busbar very near my battery to the pigtail that came with the unit.. The wire never even started to warm up. I was concerned for nothing. Factory has maybe 8ga with 80 amp fuse.

Finished up my install. Equinox unit and Bruno's automatic control. I have about $200 in it. I do have friends in a die shop that wire burnt an adapter for me and gave me access to their machines.This is the 2nd best upgrade/mods I have done so far. The torque sensing differential is the #1 best investment. I couldn't be more please with the steering unit. Works just like it should. The Z's have always been a heavy steering car and this takes care of it. It's not a track car or autocross but I would want this modification for sure if I was an Autocross guy. I have about 1.5 hrs driving so far and love the way it feels. I made a 35meg .ppt of the mods I made if anyone would like to see it. The pictures are huge is why the large file.

Bummer reading these posts. I have my steering column and shaft cut up in pieces. We had a 2003 BMW Z4 that had the "steering unit issue". BMW fixed it I read in 2005 or 2006. Only when it was hot outside 85-90 degrees. Driving along basically in a straight line and try to make the normal small correction if felt like the steering had a detent ball and you needed to overcome the force. I hope that makes sense. Is this similar to what you are experiencing? When the outside temp is lower the steering worked perfectly. It was very annoying. Ruined the driving experience. Dave

I Hi all I bit the bullet and bought the Equinox unit. In process of shoe horning the unit in my 73" 240z. Bruno as an Automatic controller on ebay that eliminates the resistor(knob) and changes the assist by the force you apply to the steering wheel Has anyone tried the automatic unit? And what are your thoughts about it. I need to order one or the other soon. dave

Turns out the CAS was bad however my main problem was I wired the COP's and the injectors wrong. I am embarrassed to say. MS wires are labeled A, B, C, D, E, F and screwed up and wires them to #1, 2, 3 ,4 ,5 ,6 instead of firing order. Engine runs good now.. I still have CAM Fault red light on tunerstidio. Can't find a good answer for that. I also have another wiring problem that I just found. I pulled the fuse that powers MS and the engine still fires up. I'll report back.

change option setting in megalogviewer. duh

I just notice in the data log my rpm's in the 80k to 100,000 range. How does MS let it idle. I've got problems.

I'm back--- weather returned to normal after low teens. Pulled #4 &6 injectors and back flushed them then installed in #3&5 position. Problem did not follow the injectors. Aw crap. Rechecked in test mode injector & coils both function. Recheck cylinder compression-OK. Sill have cam fault light on TS dashboard. Composite log looks perfect. Attached latest data log. Almost like #6 & 4 timing is off. How can this be? #1 & #5 plugs look good. #6 is black #4 is not as black. When pull #6 injector connector the exhaust popping stops and A/F goes full lean. I would expect this. Pull #4 and little A/F change. Neither affects RPM. running out of things to check! Any ideas? What settings do I change to run wasted spark. I look that up & try it. Seems like I tried that this already but may not have had all setting correct. Dave 2018-01-07_18.34.01.msq 2018-01-07_16.43.32.msl

latest update new CAS in the distributor. Started with my foot tweeking the throttle. After is settle down off ASE it would idle. Adjusted timing to 10 degrees--very steady timing light. Then switch over to the table. Still rough missing idle & exhaust popping. no sync error but I do have CAM Fault red lght Composite logged looked very steady. pulled #6 injector connector(straight 6 engine) and popping stopped. Reconnected injector and pulled #6 COP connecter - popping stopped. No RPM difference either way. Pulled each injector connecters one at a time. #4 makes no change to engine idle. Swapped #6 & #4 COP to other cylinders. Problem did not follow the COP. all 6 plugs are filthy black. #4 & 6 are dry as are the others I assume from trying to run the last couple weeks with no success. Changed out all plugs and ran engine for only a couple minutes. All plugs looked new. Next step is to swap the 2 injectors to other cylinders to see if symptom follows the injectors. Thought process is dirty injectors. Why a CAM fault??? From reading other posts this fault is not my idle issue. I did start it once today and had no CAM fault. Never had any RPM sync error. composite log attached all comments welcome. Dave 2017-12-26_15.45.59.csv

yes I installed that resistor in MS a few years ago when I assembled MS3X. Instructions were pretty clear now that I reviewed the instructions. I had forgotten this. Does the log from previous post tell us anything? Rain the next several days. Rather not work in the rain. Will post more when I get something to share.

Received the CAS unit today. Bench test green wire was about the same at 1.3v. White wire was only 0.1 at the high spots. On the engine it started better. Had to keep my foot on the throttle some to keep it running. Still has a miss but sounds more like one or 2 cylinder missing. Stinks rich. attached a composite log. What does the log tell us? I am by myself so couldn't check timing but sounds like way more than timing. It almost would run at idle. Tomorrow or sat I'll get it outside(exhaust reasons). Adjust the butterfly screw or IAC to keep it running. Determine which cylinders are not firing etc. megalogviewer says I need to register to read the full log file. $39.95 I though this license came with tunerstudio registration? 2017-12-21_17.47.47.csv