9/73-E31-260z

That's what O'Reilly's thing said too but they seem so much bigger than the stock ones, which if they'll fit is a good thing but I just wanted to see what other people that fits and all.

Sweet! I will see what kind of headway I can make with this in the next week, I'd much rather be able to just but regular wipers as opposed to fighting with retrofitting and modifying the stock ones. What size blades should I get btw? I looked up some at O'Reilly for a 260z but the ones they suggested seem too big to me. Thanks guys

Did you have the choke on? I started my car with the choke sort of stuck on and it did what your engine seems to be doing, I turned it off and fiddled with the choke and then it started fine.

Well that shouldn't be too hard to source... I'm thinking I will swap the arms so I can put new blades on and then tackle the motor... hopefully it doesn't rain for like the next two weeks...

Is that any Miata? Or certain years?

Well l was looking for anything that would bolt in or swap easily. Like I said I need to be able to drive it pretty much as soon as possible. S30s just don't show up in yards around here at all so I don't really have that as an option

So pretty much my entire wiper arm assembly is shot: blades are shredded, the motors don't want to work, and the arms themselves are brittle and breaking apart. What are my options for replacing them? Just find some from another S30, or is there something that will bolt in? I'd prefer to do something that won't take a while to install or that entails fabricating anything, as I'd like to get the car road ready as quickly as possible.

As amazing and freakin awesome that is ... it's totally not stock. Plus he has flares and coilovers. I'm just trying to see if I would need flares for 8" -13mm offset wheels on stock suspension, brakes, and body. I think I just might have to save this decision for a while (yet again) since the wiring on my car cost over $160 more than what they said it would be (which was still over twice as much as their initial quote, but that's all another story...) Anyone know any good brands/models of tires I can get 14" that will last a while? I have 215/60/14 right now and I like the look, but basically no one has that anymore. BF Goodrich has the Radial T/As but I'm just wondering what other choices I might have.

Also taking it almost 20 miles around town yesterday yielded a few insights: -it's been 100% reliable so far, several starts throughout the day, both warm and cold, all without a hitch -the brakes will need to be bled sooner than later, braking is fine but the pedal travel throws me off and the fluid is kind of old -there is a slight noise at speed that seems to come from the right rear wheel, like something is flicking around maybe -when I go in reverse or come out of reverse and move forward when I go about 5 feet there's a fairly substantial clunk, happens at very slow speed and is different from the common "diff clunk" which I also discovered I do indeed have xP -steering may have to be aligned a bit, pulls a little to the right, but has basically no slop -carbs will need to be tuned, but for now they're alright I also need the bolts for the stock air fliter, anyone know where I can get some or if I can go to Lowes or something to get that will work?

Is it difficult to put relays in? The shop that did the other wiring might've put relays in already but they had said the switch probably has some corrosion in it or something. It's not horrible, but just annoying having to click it like five times to get them to come on. I'm planning on putting a 60 amp alternator and H4 lights in eventually, is it worth putting relays in and all that or should I just wait til I do the H4s?

Well they don't have the 8" in 0 offset, next smallest offset is -12mm or -13mm (their website says -12, summit says they only make -13...) So if I get the -12-13 it would stick out a whole half in farther than the wheels that are on it now, since those ones are real flush already I didn't know I can take another 0.5"

Haha, well I have a friend who can help me out with towing I ever need it. Hopefully the only tow I'll ever need is if I do my L28et swap eventually... Overall though the car feels good, just have to get used to it and cut the stupid steering wheel cover off of it (not only is it immensely ugly, but it's melted into the rubber from the steering wheel itself fron being in the sun, I plan on using maybe bicycle handlebar wrap for it)

The drive home went well, not surprising as it was less than a mile or so. No odd noises or backfiring so that's good, the headlights only come on if I sorta toggle the combination switch, anyone come across something like that before? Takes 2 or 3 clicks back and forth before they come on (fairly weak if I'm honest..) But the brakes felt good, as did the clutch. I will be replacing the plug wires tomorrow hopefully, and I might pull the plugs as well to see what they look like, but with the arcing at the coil I need to at leas do the wires. I'll be driving it across town tomorrow a couple times hopefully, so I should get a bit more of a shakedown as well as my former mechanic uncle's expert opinion on things.

So I eneded up buying two nice marine blade style fuse boxes.... only to have the shop tell me they won't work... two days after I gave them the boxes and they said "oh looks good". So they ended up being able to use the regular round fuse boxes they had gotten before, and pretty much everything seems great: -no more loss of charge fron battery (yet) -tach works, as does the oil pressure, fuel, and possibly temp gauge (car wasn't warm so I won't know if it works til I get a chance to warm it up) -lights all seem to work: dash lights, headlights, turn signals, but reverse lights are stuck on (not a huge deal, I'll most likely just dosconnect them til I get it figured out. Not a bug loss right now) -identified the stuttering: the wire going from the coil to the distributor is arcing causing a misfire under load, good thing I picked up a set of NGK wires just today (apparently one of the only ones in town right now...) I will be going back to shop to take it home and see how it drives on the road for once. Will be back with updates

I know a few rednecks haha, just didn't want people assuming I want these wheels just to copy stock cars. And the wheels that are on it now are just about flush with the body in front and rear. They should be 14x7 0 offset, it just looks like to me going a whole inch wider would be too far without at least a little flare. I dont want rocks kicking up or anything.

I've seen that thread, and a few others. I thought they were all interesting but they were all on N/A builds so that's why I brought this thread back to see what kind of an impact the proposed setup would have on a turbo engine. And if what CTC says is true, or even if it costs more but not by much, maybe someday I'll try it out. Have a fairly unique engine, the 2.6 liters my car was supposed to have, and even a few more revs maybe.

So I was able to sell a lot of extra parts I had and I might actually be able to do these wheels now. Any advice on what size offset? Like I said before if I do the 8" wide I will need flares, and although I'd like to do flares eventually I was going to wait til I'm ready to do paint and other bodywork. So I'm thinking I will just do the 15x7", most likely 0 offset. Or Summit seems to have 3.5" backspace (-13 mm offset) but Bassett's site only lists 3.75" backspace. Either way it's very close, but will I need any sort of flaring for -12 or -13 offset on stock suspension and brakes and such?

I thought current F1 rules were each team is allowed six engines per season, period. At least that's what I heard... And I wouldn't try for something like that exactly (10, 000 rpm is anything but practical... unless your name is Takumi Fujiwara xD) And shortening the stroke would add some durability and longevity due to the reduction in piston speed right? (Or correct me if I'm wrong...) Would it cost about the same to rebuild an L28 into this 2.6 liter destroked design as rebuilding a standard L28? Not exactly with no regard to the power difference but would it cost the same?

Yeah I'm not trying to advocate the idea because I think it's better than what people have been having huge success with for years or anything. I just thought it was interesting and wanted to see what people thought the difference of what the OP proposed would have with a turbo engine would be like. Whether or not I'd actually do it myself I'm not sure... the fact that my 260 has an L24 has always put me off because it's a smaller displacement than what it had originally, and this setup up^^ would yield just about 2.6 liters apprently. Just thought that was neat. I got a long ways to go before I make decisions like that though

Well shortening the stroke would give a better stroke/bore ratio right? But I get that's not a huge deal and not worth doing a bunch of work just to shoot for a ratio. But if one were to take an L28et, put a balanced L24 crank and prepped L24 pistons in it, add say a mildly massaged P90, plus some engine management and ignition upgrades, would it be any worse than say a stock bottomed L28 with just electronic upgrades?

Pretty much sounds like it's leaning out. Tune your carbs? Check out your spark plugs, if they're ashy and gray looking then it's running lean.

I asked my friend to see what her dad thinks about nascar rims on a datsun (his dad was a Datsun specialist back in the day, and he himself had several over the years), he said "Why don't you find some nice Panasports or something?" Guess not everyone likes the idea x] But they're huge nascar fans so I thought he'd like it, but maybe he just doesn't equate the classic imports with nascar. Even though Toyota has been pretty successful in it. Anyways, since my electrical work is costing more than I'd anticipated (never using a shop ever again... this was supposed to save me time *two months and $400 later....*) I probably won't be able to pull the trigger on these wheels for a little while (Unless santa is feeling mighty generous this year... sike)

Well the main issue is that most cars don't have 14 fuses like this. The MSA box has 10, and most aftermarket ones only go up to like 12. So I ordered a 12 and a 6 circuit box, just gonna do 12 circuits in the first one and the other two on the second, leaves some extra for if I want to do fog lights or other things like an amp later on.

I tried calling MSA, the guy said that it might work but same thing I'd need to adapt it. S30s are not common in any junk yards around here, I might see one every ten times I'm down there maybe. Just by chance there was one 260 there just last week when I was there but I wasn't aware of the fuse box problem then so I didn't check for one. Doubt it was there though, the car was entirely stripped except the block and head. I ended up getting a couple modern blade style marine fuse boxes, should come on tomorrow.

I think I will do that... Since 15x7 is cheaper, would it be much better if I did that but with like -6 offset? Slightly wider track for better handling but without tougher slow speed steering effort. Or is it just worth it to get the 15x8s? Since they're so cheap I can always just upgrade to 8" later when I upgrade suspension and such, but since everything is stock I cam just do this.