9/73-E31-260z

I misplaced my password and between the dumb password saving software in my browser I keep having wrong passwords saved in the autofill. I have tried three times to change my password but when I sign in with the temporary password and try to change it to a new one the page says "current password incorrect" I input the temporary password for both 'current password' spots but it won't register as correct even though I just successfully signed in with the same password. Is there a way to reset my password other than the "I forgot my password" option?

Ah, it is there. Little out of the way so I hadn't noticed it before. My auto tech teacher pointed out the magnetic pickup in the distributor the other day and said "Oh you've got electronic ignition on here" Is this kind of distributor similar to the ones they had on the 280z that were 'magnetic trigger' design I believe? And much different from the D6K82-02 280zx distributor I have as well? I am going to guess the current distributor came from the car like you said, it also has an N36 intake which was also from the L26 right? The whole engine is an interesting mix of L24 and L26 bits.

I've tried to scrape the deposits off but couldn't really make much progress, is there a certain method I should use to worry about damaging anything or can I just use some fine grit sand paper? Also I have a complete 280zx distributor, could I maybe use just the cap from that? Or is it not compatible?

do you happen to know the dimensions on both? Like if I could just shave or cut a little out of the 240 panel to make the lights fit?

Not sure if have a picture but they're pretty frosty white

My early 260z the giver of many surprises thus far... both good and bad hehe Front air dam with custom license plate recess, shaved rear bumper and 240z small front bumper. Western Wheel (model?) wheels, 14x7 0 offset, oooold tires, but they have white letters so they're still cool.

Been a while since I added progress. My friends helped me tune the SU's (Scott Fisher's procedure), so the car is running MUCH better now. Still need to do some fine tuning/massage the timing I think cuz it's still feels just a little bit off, but not much. I was able to find a 280z center console for a temporary replacement, I wish I could've found one with an actual opening for the choke lever but S30s are hard to come by in yards around here so I'm happy for now. Next step will be to see if I can put the 280zx distributor I have on the engine. Speaking of distributors... I just got the number off of the one on the engine currently - D6F3-01- which is the stock L26+manual transmission distributor. Except for the fact that my engine is supposedly an L24... So I am left even more confused on what exactly my engine is made up of: It has an ealry 240 head (E31), a late 240 block (P30 L24), and an L26 distributor. I know it's possible that it could have L26 internals, but it could have any number of combinations as well of course. I'm not taking the head or oil pan off any time soon so I can't really be sure as to what is actually in it, I might be able to see if the pistons are dished or not through the spark plug holes but that's about it. At this point nothing on the engine seems to be from the same engine (even the intake and balance tubes and such are different), but at least there's hope it could possibly have the L26+E31 combo I was hoping it had when I bought it. Interchangeability certainly does have it's ups and downs... Overall the engine runs and feels plenty powerful (for now...), compression numbers were rock solid (less than 5-7% difference across all sic cylinders), no apparent vacuum leaks, and exhaust fumes aren't even an issue creeping into the cabin. I hope to start working again soon and then try and get the five speed I have in maybe over spring break, and I might look at checking out the diff because something seems off on it as well. First things first though: 40 year old bushings have GOT to go, basically non existent right now. And the shocks might be shot as well in the back, so definitely some fun to be had over the next couple of months. A little long winded, but it's been almost two months since I updated progress and I've been thinking about lots I stuff I need/want to do with the car. I'd love to hear your guys' thoughts on things like the engine combo and such.

So I tuned up the SU's as per Scott Fisher's procedure. The engine seems like it's running better but it still seems to be misfiring a little. This is a short video I took just after a cold start, sounds like cam lope almost but it's not really supposed to sound quite like that right? This is after driving about 15 miles, sounds "warmed up" but it still has that lopey quality to it. It doesn't seem to stutter or hesitate except at around 1500-1800 rpm, and even then only barely, everything else seems alright. My distributor is pretty worn and might need a new rotor, would replacing the rotor and cleaning the points clean up the idle? Also I have to set the idle at 800-1000 rpm at least otherwise it really feels like it's gonna stumble and die, I couldn't find much info on what the stock L24 idle speed was, is it supposed to be that high? Other L series I've seen have been below that.

Well the point was that it looked like I'd be able to use all factory parts and just move stuff around. If the other lights will fit the 240z panel I just might try it out later on, if not I don't need to go as far as fiberglass and all that, I just like to keep things simple.

Just to get some closure on this thread I was able to check the inside of the rims and they are Western Wheel brand like SleeperZ's. Any idea what the model name is? I just would like to know more info and such. I might sell them when I get new wheels later on.

Is there a difference in the shape of the lights? I thought they were the same dimensions just the 240 has the reverse lights. My 260z's tail lights even have an indent in the same spot where the reverse lights are on a 240's lights so it seems like maybe Nissan used the same mold for the plastic, so I had thought they were the same size, or at least very very close

So I had a thought: could you take the rear panel from a 240z (without the reverse light holes) and use it with just the tail lights from a 260z/280z, and then relocate the reverse lights? (say to the rear bumper or rear fogs or the like) I can't find anyone who has done this before, and I really like the look of the bar tail lights on the 260z and 280, I think it would look really good and very clean.

Might have a job available soon... But in the meantime I got the car idling, first Z so I mixed up the throttle and mixture screws like a total dunce... Still running rich but it's worlds better now than it was before. Gonna tune it for real later this week.

Soooo I feel like an idiot... I misunderstood the writeups I have saved for tuning carbs and what I thought were the mixture screws are actually the individual throttle screws Car is idling fine now, no thanks to me messing with those screws back and forth. Still a little rich but I'm going to sit down and tune them later this week.

I know I'm still learning, but I know enough at this point to suggest that he might have a lean mixture. And I reluctantly paid a shop to do redo hacked up wiring because the state it was in was beyond me and I didn't have the time to fix that part myself. I'm not taking it to another more shops from this point on, that was a one time deal with specific circumstances.

So getting laid off is fun... especially with Christmas right around the corner Hopefully I can figure something out very soon...

I just couldn't seem to get the angle. But I had to stop short before I could get too far, but at least now I know what it's like under the cowl. Anybody have pictures of swapped wipers? Can't be that bad

So I was tinkering a bit more today, and my neighbor came over to help (guess he had a 260 2+2 back in the day). I was able to get it to idle by adjusting the idle screw but unless it was set to about 900rpm or higher it would die after about a minute of running choppy. He lent me a compression tester but I probably won't be able to get numbers til late next week. I'll post as soon as I test it.

Took the front cowl off today, no rust but o wasn't able tomake much progress for the wipers problem. Also I was messing with the tuning a bit and couldn't really make any difference in the running quality, it's super choppy and sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders. My neighbor is a Z fan as it turns out and he lent me a compression tester so I will have numbers for that soon, but most likely not til after school ends next week.

So I took off the front cowl today to take a look around. I took the wiper arms off and I was going to try and see if I could get the motor out but I couldn't quite get the mounting screws, is there any trick to it or just unscrew for days? Also there was no rust in the cowl so that's awesome. Are the Miata wipers also a single motor with the struts moving both? or do they have individual motors? Ive just never really messed with wipers much before.

So I bought some M8-1.25 all thread and cut some bolts for the air filter and mounted it. Seems to be rock solid, but I went to start the car and it didn't want to idle. but that's another thread... this one namely, if anyone wants to share their insight and/or wisdom --> http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115951-l24-with-misfire-and-doesnt-want-to-idle-but-ran-alright-before/ Basically my next step is going to be getting it to run smoothly, and then do some upgrades to a few things to update it. 1) Electronic distributor, I have one already, just need to research how to put it in 2) 60 internally regulated alternator, not sure if I have to do this before/in tandem with the dizzy, but it will help get the electrical ready for things like... 3) These: http://www.dapperlighting.com/collections/projector-headlights/products/7-round-diamond-cut-headlight-with-halo , very good price, and a good setup with the LED running lights (halo no less) and the H4 bulbs, to go with a new headlight switch that hopefully works better than mine. 4) 5 speed transmission, just bought one today for $125 (couldn't pass it up, a steal and also is supposed to be one of the refurbished ones by Nissan), probably gonna throw it in sometime over break since it's here and I can do it quickly and easily with some help. Odd angle, but everything look great in the bellhousing and putting through the gears felt brand new, can't wait to put it in the car. Once i'm done with school in about a week and a half I'll really have to time to dive into the car, clean it up, fix little bits, and get it ready to daily drive.

I don't have the ZX distributor in it yet, sorry if I didn't make that clear. So I do have the points type distributor on there now. And I have early 3-screw SUs, I'm assuming they were rebuilt since I found a receipt and the instructions for a rebuild kit from MSA in the car when I bought it. They seem to be working well, but the only real difference between last week when it ran fine (albeit in need of a slight tune) and today after I put the air filter on. Here is the cap from the ZX distributor I have, seems clean but I was also concerned about the rotor in the pictures above^ is that ok, too far gone, or can I clean it?

Oh I'm not doing the RB25... I decided against it a couple months ago. I got a lot more fish to fry until I'm ready for any swaps, but I caught one today: 5 speed that was supposedly one of the Nissan refurbished pieces when they resold a few completely redone Zs (in 1998 i belive?) for $125. Not too bad. But I still can't drive in the rain... yet...

So I have an L24 (P30 block/E31 head), stock as far as I know. Last week when I got the car back from a shop to redo wiring the car ran fine, I babied it around when I drove it a few times since it hadn't been driven in 4-5 years, kept it below 3,000 rpm the whole time. Sunday night it wouldn't start but I figured it was just too cold and the battery had started to run down from cranking the starter so many times (didn't burn it out, starter is fine). When I got the car it didn't have the air filter on it, so I did drive it without it (for less than a day, less than an hour total drive time). I cut some bolts for it and put it on today and gave it a jump to start, started up fine but wouldn't idle. i can get it to start fine on its own even but it just won't idle. I changed all the spark plugs just before I gave it the jump, and I put brand new NGK plugs on it last week. When it wouldn't I checked the new plugs and they seemed almost identical to the old ones. I popped the distributor to check it out, and the points have some white corrosion on the, and the rotor is a little dirty but doesn't seem to be corroded. I am thinking this is the problem, and I actually have another dizzy from a 280zx that I want to put in anyway. Does this seem like that is the problem? I included pictures of the plugs and both distributors. The plugs are 1-6 left to right. Also the L24 dizzy is the first set of pictures with the 280zx in the ones after that.