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Everything posted by Jss240z

  1. Right , reading the posts again a bit SLOWER I guess if the spacers are matched to the hubs they could be any length and completely different. Sorry for asking that multiple times
  2. Does anyone have a new spacer that they can measure the length?
  3. I made sure to get Oem bearings. Skf brand. I'm own a machine shop and definitely know that cheap bearings are NOT good. Now that I think about it some more I do remember that same wheel being a little harder to turn before I changed them but didn't really think of it a big deal because the wheel was on and obviously easier to turn as opposed to trying to turn the hub.
  4. I did not measure the spacer. I don't know what the length is supposed to be anyway. Does anyone have that measurement? I think the seal is seated because when I have the flange installed without the nut it turns free enough. The second I put the nut on and torque it a bit is when it gets tough to turn. So I'm looking looking at a spacer replacement? Is there a difference between the length of spacers drivers side to passenger?
  5. So while swapping my rear diff I got into the while I'm at it mode and decided to replace my rear wheel bearings. I followed a good write up that another site has. Everything is together now but the drivers side is tough to turn. One hand can JUST turn the hub. Has anyone else had this issue and how did you solve it? I'm thinking it must be the spacer between the two bearings but wanted to check before I did just in case there might be something m missing. As always, any help is appreciated!
  6. I did NOT degree my cam second time around . I shaved another .020 off head to bump ,,CR and thought it would need another bump in advance valve timing. Degree your cam! Judging from the results I have gotten it is very much worth it. Actually retarded it 4 degrees from cam card and made a WORLD of difference. Especially at top end.
  7. I showed the picture to mike at whitehead performance here in Ontario and he said it looks like some kind of cheap locking device but not completely sure and that he is used to seeing them open like the pic on the right (3.9). Still going to put the 3.9 in and yes for sure i will check for wear before swapping. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
  8. Ok, I realize that's what it is but the rectangular piece in the centre?
  9. Well when I spun the wheels when it was in, one went forward and the other back. So it must be an open diff right? What I'm really trying to get at is do I need to swap it into the 3.9. Plus knowing what is is would be helpful.
  10. Great info. Went outside to check again and it looks like there is only one rod going through the centre like my 3.9, but with that rectangular piece around it. If it's only one is that still considered a four pinion?
  11. So I decided to remove my rear diff which is a 3.7 and install a 3.9 I had laying around. When I romoved the back cover on the one I removed from the car I noticed a little piece in the centre (first pic) that the 3.9 I planned on installing did not have(second pic). Does anyone know what it is? Some kind of locker?
  12. Yes, that's kind of what I mean going for. Except not so much the foam ones. Reading here on here it seems like some people have had problems with that foam type getting soaked with fuel . Now the ones I have now do have some fuel that gets into them sometimes but the thought of foam gets me nervous. In my head I have a picture like this, but with an actual filter on them. Kinda want the looks and performance . http://toyheadauto.com/PerformancePages/PerPics/Air_Horn_Screen_Filters.jpg Actually thinking about it , has anyone used these and added their own cotton type filter scree
  13. I should clarify that the filters I'm speaks of is something that doesn't cover the whole air horn. I would like to show off what I made a bit. Currently I have a k&n that covers both horns on each carb.
  14. Absolutely. For the right price lol. Have about 8 hours in them ( programming, set up and a couple scrap trial parts) so unless they aren't made, probably cheaper to buy from someone who makes lots at a time.
  15. So I've only posted a couple times and I have lots of pictures of the things I did/do to my Z, and I do have a question. But first a little show and tell . I was frustrated I couldn't find air horns for my Weber carbs that I thought where correct (opinion only), so part owning a machine shop, i made these. I chose to make them two piece because they are easier to machine being thin wall and I only need to make the bell half if I want to change the design later. I have two questions .. 1) is there anyone that makes filter that are actually filters?. (As opposed to just mesh screens I'
  16. Yes I was way off on the price, sorry. 465 for the set of 12... Still cheaper than what I can get though
  17. Don't quote me on that till I check the actual quote though... I could be wrong. Often am!
  18. I don't have the quote in front of me but I believe less than HALF of what I could find anywhere else. I'll have to check again later, but it was substantial. He also did not have the lash pads I needed in stock (after he mistakenly said he did) so they are being shipped straight from Japan to my place. I'm seriously blown away by his service.
  19. The actual quote I received from him stated "new Oem Nissan rockers". So I'm guessing (hoping) there good quality.
  20. Some of my rockers are actually worn like that... Good knowledge for future use though. I contacted Eiji from Datsun spirit (awesome service!) and he sells them pretty cheap compared to others I've check so I ordered a set.
  21. I've heard of people not replacing the rockers and being fine. But that's just them saying. With the .08" longer valve I'll be using, shaving the head by the same amount and shimming , the valve train should be close. Moving everything back to the same spot height wise. Guess I should not be cheap and get new ones just in case. Just wanted to know if anyone had a definitive answer one way or another.
  22. Hello, I'm milling a p79 head .080" and shimming the cam towers and springs the same for correct geometry. Taking the valves I have out of my n42 (which are fairly new) , springs and Schneider cam. My question is should I be replacing my rockers for new ones as well as lash pads?
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