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Showing results for tags 'Weber'.
Found 17 results
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As it say, I'm selling my Redline Weber TB280 Brand New Kit "BIG THROAT" throttle body. It's a 60mm Throttle Body bolt-on directly on the stock L28 Intake. Old school tuning part. A piece of the Z history. It come in the original box with the installation instruction. It never been used or installed. What you see is what you get. I got 2 of those, both are for sale! I'm looking for 280$ for each.
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Looking for a set of triples. Whether full package or just parts. I’ve found a few sets on eBay, Redline being one of them, and those are a little out of my budget right now. Just curious what else is out there. Thanks, -Dean
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I have been having so many issues tuning my triple OER/SK dcoe 40 carbs. I recently bought these carbs secondhand. I have been running into issues with idle speed, and synchronizing. The car runs very rough and the engine shakes quite a bit. Problem #1 I attempted to synchronize all three of the carbs but ran into many issues. The carb (#2) in the middle seems to be drawing in a lot of air compared to the carb (#1) and carb (#3). This is with all the carbs set to the same idle speed screw distances. I suspect that carb #2 has a bent throttle shaft or butterfly, but the butterfly opens smoothly with no obstructions. I also checked for vacuum leaks and there doesn't seem to be any. Problem #2 When I put the synchronize tool onto any of the carbs the idle drops and the carb drools fuel everywhere, like a toddler drooling. I am not sure if that is normal or not. Every carb seems to do that when I hold the tool up to the throat. Also when I hold up the sync tool to carb#2 the engine almost dies out. Desperately, trying to find a solution I have to increase the idle speed of #1 and #3 in order to match the flow of #2. This resulted in a super high idle speed of about 2000rpm. Problem #3 Carb #2 seems to also be running much leaner than the others. I had to turn the idle mixture screws a few more turns than #1 and #3. please any advice is welcome.
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So I've only posted a couple times and I have lots of pictures of the things I did/do to my Z, and I do have a question. But first a little show and tell . I was frustrated I couldn't find air horns for my Weber carbs that I thought where correct (opinion only), so part owning a machine shop, i made these. I chose to make them two piece because they are easier to machine being thin wall and I only need to make the bell half if I want to change the design later. I have two questions .. 1) is there anyone that makes filter that are actually filters?. (As opposed to just mesh screens I've seen) 2) should I have made the bell half tapered like I did? I do apologize if these questions have been beaten to death and I did search so feel free to tell me to search more if that's the case.
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Hey guys, I just got my car back from the dyno and I was a bit underwhelmed with the results - 156hp and 161ft/lb at the wheels (curves with AFR attached). The long block was assembled by a pretty reputable builder with the following specs: Bored out L28 to 2.95L F54 block with a N47 head 11.3:1 CR 290° cam with 0.490" lift Then I came along and messed something up with the following: MSA 6-1 header into 2.5" exhaust MSD 6AL-2 programmable ignition box triggered by a 280zx dizzy Cannon intake manifold Weber DCOE40s 36mm chokes 160 main 160 air correction F2 emulsion tube 3.5 A/V 55F9 idle The timing curve was initially dialed in by the tuner to eliminate knock with the 94 octane that I delivered the car with. The dizzy is locked out at 35°BTDC and the timing map they arrived at is attached. After the 1st round of results, I asked them to run some higher octane to get in all the timing that I thought was left on the table to control the knock. With 108 octane the car didn't pick up any power from advancing the curve that was developed with the 94. I found that a bit odd, but not sure how you argue with the data. The dyno was an eddy brake Land and Sea Dynomite axle hub set up. Let me know what your thought are on where I could look next, or if you think something is really bottlenecking the output. From all the searching I've done, it seems like all the hardware should support 200+whp, but we're not even close. Thanks! L28 dyno.pdf
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Hi: Looking for a good set - in perfect shape, needing nothing or good rebuildable - of 45 DCOEs for an L28 build. I actually have a manifold & linkage already, so I don't need that. Alternatively, I'd also consider a set of Mikuni 44 PHH sidedrafts, but those are quite rare these days. Thanks. -
Anyone have triple weber dcoe and manifold they want to sell?
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I am looking for a complete 45mm triple carb setup with the manifold and linkage. The condition be can be whatever if the price is right. Keep in mind a brand new set of Webers from MSA is $1,650.00 so I am looking for a cheaper price than this.
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I am on the search for a complete set of use-able / rebuild-able triple DCOE carburetors. Either 45mm Weber's or 44mm Mikunis is what I'm looking for. I would need everything to install into a 280z with an L28. Can work on trades as well, please see my for sale posting. -
Found what I was looking for. Thanks everyone. Moderators, I wish to close this thread.
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I have searched the internet far & wide to no avail trying to find photos/reviews of the Mangoletsi manifold before buying. Therefore, I hope this post will give the next person looking to switch to triple webers more complete information. The manifold is made by Mangoletsi in the UK. It is built to fit DCOE 40 but they also produce an option for DCOE 45. It is extremely well built, every part looks and feels to be high quality. It comes with both the standard rod linkage as well as a cable linkage (can be seen in one of the photos). Included in the kit is a port matching template to make the block openings fit the manifold perfectly. I have not had the chance to install the manifold as the car is undergoing a complete restoration, but so far completely recommend it. Enough talking, time for some photos! Although it did take a while to have the manifold built, it was worth it.
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Anyone ever seen something like this? Its off a 48/45 DCOE Weber on a race build 3.1L setup. Was this an OEM part or something custom fabricated after the fact? Any known history?
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I recently bought a weber manifold for a 240z L24 but I'm not sure whether it was made for 40 or 45 dcoe. I measured the "C" value (in the attached photo) at 4.6 cm. Does that indicate it was made for a 45 dcoe? I dont have any carburetors to compare the diameters for the two and couldnt find anything online. On the producers website they have a kit listed for 40 and separately one for 45 so I am guessing they are somehow different Any help in finding out which carb fits the manifold is greatly appreciated!
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Doing a slow restore on a 72 240 i picked up. Weber 45s were having some trouble sneezing and leaking so took them off to clean em up and replace gaskets, set floats etc. Noticed these adjustment screws which i find no mention of in Haynes manual, or any online reference ive found. These are the later 152s with nitrophyl/spansil floats so im thinking it was a modification on later models? has a white plastic hat/cover. one on each throat. with plastic cover removed needle screw with fastener nut needle pokes through main venturu/choke into carb throat (upper right)
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Hi, I'm planning to add a MAP sensor to my current setup; this includes 3.1L + Triple Webers + Electromotive HPX ignition. If you take a look at the attached photos, you'll see how I plumbed PCV and the brake booster. I've read that it's not advisbile to pull vacuum for a MAP sensor directly off the same vacuum line as the booster. My DCOE 40-151's have a vacuum port that I use to balance the carbs using gauges. Would this be a sufficient vacuum source for a 1 bar map sensor? Thanks, Bajcsi
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Hello, recently i just recently purchased a used set of weber 40 dcoe. But basically i am missing a few parts such as the three eye joints that screw on to the manifold, and one butterfly and throttle shaft. What had happened was i bought the set of webers that had the three pieces of linkage missing so i new i was going to need those. But me being an idiot i was disassembling the first carb without penetrating fluid so i stripped the heads of the screws that hold the butterfly and the throttle shaft in place and i had to drill out the holes. But the throttle shaft needed to be replaced anyways since one of the ends threads were stripped. So basically i need one throttle shaft, one butterfly, and three of the eye joints that screw in to the manifold. The carbs seem to be fairly old italian weber Dcoe 18 No. 9E ,with a cannon manifold. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Hello hybrid z I have a question regarding the triple weber carb kit that is for L series engines. Well i am planning on getting the carb kit but i'm not sure which one to get. Here is a video of my car specs on the engine are in the description. Not sure what cam but here is what i think it is Grind: 17036. Lift(In/Ex): .495/.495. Duration(In/Ex): 290/290 any thoughts on this.
