skerry

Mods, please feel free to move this if there is a better place. I have a 72 that I bought to restore but its become a parts car. I haven't stolen a bunch from it, console, switches, armrest, etc. The car runs great, has the original 2.4 and a 5 speed. Clutch is a little iffy. Biggest problem is paperwork as its bonded Mississippi title is not transferable to Louisiana. I may be able to work it around that with some time and money though. Rest of the car is decent. Rust under the seats, lower passenger door and hatch deck in the back but not cancer by any stretch. Paint job is horrendous and it needs a brake booster. Besides that its drivable. What I'm trying to decide is if I should start parting it out. I have a v8 conversion so I can't use a lot of this car beyond what I've taken. Other option is to slowly start doing an original restoration but I don't think I have the budget for that. Obviously, this is my decision to make but I'd love to hear what you guys would do with a car like this. Picture below for reference. Oh and I bought this for $800. http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd70/pocket3s/20131124_113119_resized.jpg

I would just like a blank console that I can put whatever I might want in. In my case I'd like to shove in a double din stereo and switches for an aftermarket ac. I see lots of people though that have done different things with the center so it might cool to just have a blank. I didn't really understand how the printer worked until I went and looked at it. It would probably just make more sense to cut the console out of ABS or just do the vacuum forming instead.

Yeah, I knew it was different. I was really just wondering if you could create that piece with 3d printing fairly easily.

I put the tires on today and had no issues with the 225/50-16 with 0 offset. This is with all stock suspension.

Here is mine, I picked it up about 80% done but I've added my touches.

Edit: just sending a pm

I'm thinking about building one of those abs vacuum forming setups. I want to create a new center dash that I can modify to fit all of my ideas. Could you create something like that? Just a solid piece of plastic that would fit in that space.

Do you just need the mount or do you need the mirror as well?

Found one, thanks

To me? or to Borini? I still looking.

FOUND IT I'm looking for the horn pad for a 240z. I have a 1972 that I can trade parts off of or I can pay cash. Let me know what you have. Thanks Stephen

Well guys, I'm trying to get my car street legal but I've run into yet another issue. This car has a body kit which is similar to the msa 3 but not exactly. I belive it's more for a 280z as there is no place to mount turn signals. There is an air duct/driving light hole down toward the bottom but those are probably too low to pass inspection. I have a 240z donor car that has the original turn signals but there is nowhere to mount them without cutting the fiberglass which I don't have experience with and would like to avoid. I've seen how the turn signals are mounted in front of the grill but I believe I understand this is only an option for the 280z? I wish I had a better picture, but if you guys could take a look and let me know if you see any options I'm missing. Also, I realize I will need side markers as well but I can take those from the other car. Thanks Stephen

I ordered the wheels/tires this morning and Tbone I ran into that exact issue. I ended up settling on the Konig Rewinds 16x 7 with Hankook Ventus V12 225/50. It was the best combo I could come up with in my budget. I may end up having to roll the fenders or I may just go ahead and get the zg flares since I've been eyeing them. Discount tire direct is amazing by the way. Wheels/Tires mounted and balanced with a new set of lugs for $850 shipped.

I really like the Konig Rewinds, they are 16x7 though. I can get those with the starspecs for 890 delivered from discounttiredirect. What do you guys think about that? Thanks for the input Stephen

I've done a bunch of research on this topic and I was ready to pull the trigger on 15x7 wheels all around with 225/50 tires. I have a 350 with a 3 speed auto, the motor puts out around 340hp.It has the stock suspension. I just got the car and it came with the stock 14" wheels and some worn out old tires so I don't really have a good grasp on what the car will do. I plan to daily drive this car. I was talking to a buddy today that I trust but has limited knowledge of this specific car. He thinks that with the extra power and weight to the front that I should go wider in the rear(15x9,245). From what I've seen, this is almost only done in cars that will be used for some type of racing. I'd love to hear what you guys think. Thanks Stephen

I just bought a car with a 350 conversion that has this exact issue. Can you tell me what you did to fix it?

Yeah, I thought it was close as well. I just thought that maybe someone might have seen this one before. Thanks for the input.

So I bought a car and had it delivered yesterday. When the guy was unloading it, the ramp slipped out about a foot before the car was off and it crushed the corner of the rear bumper. Man said that I just needed to get a quote and they would take care of it. I'm not sure if its fixable but I would like to be able to tell the body shop which bumper. Can you guys take a look and let me know if you recognize the kit? Thanks http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd70/pocket3s/00w0w_a7Z130Dipkl_600x450_resized_1.jpg http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd70/pocket3s/Mobile%20Uploads/00g0g_8u5b0kng4S6_600x450.jpg

I'm looking for the Push Button Setup that was sold http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic11p/12-4250 . I'm also willing to trade parts as I have an entire 72 240z parts car. Let me know if you have something. Thanks Stephen

I appreciate all of the ideas guys. I've thought about it and I think I'm going to stick with the 240z. As I mentioned in my post, I'm wanting a daily driver. I'm not in any kind of hurry to drop something bigger in, but I felt like the 280z gave me that option in the future. I've decided that the money I would spend even if I got some back would go a lot further on the 240z and I could customize it more to liking. Again, I appreciate everyones input. I know there are a ton of threads like this one but these cars had specific issues and I was glad to get some input back on those. Thanks again.

Alright, I need some advice. I'm new to these cars and I'm wondering what you guys would do. I have a 1972 240z that I'm planning to use as a daily driver. It runs without issue and sounds good but has the following known issues: Has a clunk in the back that we believe is a bushing but research shows it can be one of several things Needs new tires Windshield Wipers don't work at all Rust in the floor panels but the rest of the car looks pretty decent on that front Needs weather stripping all around Interior needs to be completely redone: New Carpet, New Seat covers, dash redone, new door skins Exterior needs paint badly(Somebody decided that it needed to look like the Italian flag and that they should paint it themselves). No AC installed(South Louisiana Daily Driver so I will have to install this) Dents and dings in the body(nothing major, just what you'd expect in a 40 year old car) I paid $800 for the car, I have about $200 in it on top of that (New Brake Booster and Master Cylinder). The car had a title issue which I have resolved. I've found a 280z that is a little bit of a drive for me to go look at but the guy is being up front and telling me known issues: It's a 1978 280z. It has EFI. Here is the description from the current owner. Very nice 280Z! Original 2.8 liter with efi and 5-speed. This cars runs well and looks good enough to turn heads! All original parts inside and out are on this car except the radio. The interior is very nice with good vinyl, newer carpet, a custom sewn leather steering wheel cover. Drivers seat bottom should be recovered. The body is very straight, no dents, some minor rust in the usual areas. I have installed 1979 Z chrome wheels and barely used goodyear radial T/A tires. I still have the original steels wheels and hub caps, an extra trans, rear end, speedo, tail lights, and other misc stuff. Also installed "quiet" Magnaflow exhaust, a new front windshield and rubber, and new rear window seal. The heat and air does not work or the fuel gauge. Drive it now and have fun! Some things that we've talked about on the phone: The minor rust in usual areas refers to under the door handles, in the wheel arches and around the battery tray. The floor panels and spare tire are clean and he has replaced the fuel tank due to rust issues with it. The car burns a little bit of oil, he said about a quart every couple of months. The transmission was gone through and looks really good. The engine has never been rebuild but has good compression. He's asking $3500 for the car. Obviously, there could be further issues with either car but I'm wondering if I should make the move and go for the newer car with the bigger engine or if I should just continue with the engine that I have now. The one I have now will sell for about $2000 to $2500 where I am as the cars are sought after but don't come up much around here. So if anybody has any insight, I'd love to hear it. Thanks Stephen

I bought a 240z locally here a couple of weeks ago and the only problem mechanically seems to be the brake booster. A buddy of mine has a brand new 280zx booster and master cylinder. It's free and the 240z ones seem to be difficult to find so I thought I would check around to see if it was possible. All I've really found on the subject is the following statement: "The original poster is wanting to put a ZX booster in his 1975 Z (_not_ a 1972 Z). So, I think a little information is needed... The early (1970-73) Z’s have a different firewall bolt pattern for the brake booster than the later Z’s. Reason being that when the 2+2 version appeared in 1974 a larger diameter booster was needed for the 2+2. This larger booster also resulted in Nissan having to move the move the firewall components slightly for additional clearance and a new foot pedal mounting bracket had to be designed. This larger booster has a different (larger) bolt pattern than the 240Z’s booster. Nissan elected to keep the same firewall bolt pattern even for the 1974-78 two-seater Z’s which used a smaller diameter booster than the 2+2's. The 280ZX’s also used this same bolt pattern but the booster rear push rod tube is offset from the bolt centerline in a different direction than the 1974-78 booster. So, as a result you must rotate the ZX booster 180 degrees so that it lines up with the holes in the 1974-78 firewall. The only way to mount the ZX booster into the early Z (1970-73) cars is by re-drilling the firewall. But this allows you to mount it without rotation." ZCARNUT Now in that last line, does he mean re-drill the bolt holes or does he mean completely redrill the entire hole? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Stephen