grillhands

So my 280z is dripping oil and I couldn't tell where it was coming from. I thought it was coming from the rear main seal but it looks pretty clean. Now I think it's coming from my oil pan gasket however there is oil in my transmission casing. I have a four speed in there now and I'm swapping a 5-speed. Can oil from oil pan drip into there? If I drove the car 50 miles I would lose about quart. Thanks

What do you guys think.

In 5 days I collected this much crap. This is way too much

I'm going to install this seperator today. I'm going to run the crankcase hose to the inlet then run the outlet before the turbo so there is constant pull on the crankcase. I will be changing the oil today so I will spray some into the block.

That is hilarious!

Thank NewZed. This is why I like this site. The information here is solid and not coming from someone's cousin's grandma who owned a Z 30 years ago. Thanks again.

Understood. I have much ahead of me but doesn't the computer give max fuel at full throttle with or without the CTS?

It was only rich at idle and off throttle. I was burning more gas at stop lights than boosting lol.

You said it Tony. I can't believe how much better the car revs and idles. "A good running" vehicle is a relative term.

When I was doing my turbo conversion I installed a wideband for obvious reasons. The car always ran super rich and the mpg was terrible. After installing the wideband the car read 10 at idle and would be pinned there. It didn't idle bad but I always saw people behind me waving the fumes away from their face. I did the basic purchases such as cts, plugs, wires and rotor. The car still stunk so I picked up refurbished afm. When I installed that the car wouldn't even idle. I was uncontrollably pissed off by this. After a gin/tonic I took a step back and did a thorough check of Everything. I've come to find out for about 2 years I was driving the car with the thermotime harness connected to the cts and vice versa. The P.O. set the afm to run this way by manipulating the tension wheel and air bypass. I switched the two and instantly air fuel went to 15.5-15.7 at idle. This is just a heads up to everyone. I looked at that harness hundreds of times and never thought anything of it until I got the proper instruments to tell me otherwise. Triple check everything guys!!! That's my lesson for the day.

I ordered a new dipstick so when that comes in I'll be taking her for a run. I'll keep an eye on the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket. If I have to change either one then I'm gonna pick up a 5spd while I'm down there. The 4spd stinks on the highway. As for today, I'm going to check the pcv again but I'm not too sure where else to look for clogs.

Tony D got me nervous about turning my engine into shrapnel so I'm probably gonna dial down the timing.

I replaced the pcv during the conversion. I'm not sure what's going on but I think I'm gonna vent to a CC then send it to the atmosphere. I'll cap the pcv. Or just maybe my dip stick was shot and needed to be replaced lol.

Cylinder 1 135 2. 132 3. 135 4. 125. With oil added 125 still 5. 135 6. 140 This was done cold at 60f at full throttle. The gauge was hand tightened. What do you guys think? Car runs well except for being rich at idle.

I will check compression when I get home if it's not raining. I'm curious to see. I'll update soon.

This pic is exactly what I did on the audi. I'll probably do this tobth 280z as well

I had mine like this

Oh man. I'll do it over the weekend. This happened to my built audi. I was constantly blowing out the dip stick. What I did to fix it was I ran a line right after the filter so the suction of the turbo pulled out the vapors. I daily drove it for 2yrs at 28psi on a t3t4 50trim with a .63 ar. Ran like a beast

I have a n42 block and a p79 head. I'm running stock 280zx turbo with front mount and all N/A electronics. I'm using a fmu to crudely control fuel. Air/fuel is at 11.8 at 7psi and timing is set at 10 tdc with mechanical advance its total 27-29. The pcv functions normally and the vent cover is venting to a brand new rubber boot. Car pulls pretty well besides this problem. It only happens when I really get on it. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.

That's awesome!

Thank you, sir

I had this before. I unplugged the coolant temp and it ran great

Please post pictures. I have to see this!

Can you post pics on how you are locking it? I'm in the same boat as you and I've read that we would need a FMU rated at 8:1 I believe.

The car has never been started. Im in the process of finishing the conversion. I've built plenty of high horse power vw engines put I left the tuning for someone else. I have no confidence in my ability to tune lol.