grillhands

How has your setup held up?

How much you asking? Pm me please

Where are you shipping from?

I did it with the engine in the car. If cylinder 1 is not TDC then you won't be able to maneuver the pan away from the block.

Lol. I feel like I walked in the middle of two people having a conversation and then they turn to me asking my opinion. I'm not sure exactly what you're asking.

I never had a real budget in mind when making my 280z drivable and reliable. You just kinda spend on the car what needs to be done step by step year to year. Every year I do one big project in the winter. My first year was convert from auto to 5spd. Second year was turbo. Third year was new floor and rails. This year is rebuilding a my spare short block. Things add up quick. For example I paid 400 for zed floors and rails. I spent aout 20hrs cutting out the old floor and still paid 1500 for a shop to weld them in and repair some other rust issues. What makes me nervous is the tools that you mentioned. Screwdrivers, ratchets and wire strippers aren't going to cut it for a 40 year old car. There is so much more than having it running right. You are gonna need structural integrity throughout the unibody. If welding is an issue it's gonna cost much more. Buying a Z is challenging because you either get one that is pretty much all set and ready to roll or buy a shell that needs tons of work. There aren't much in between those two options. Whatever you decide you will have our support but from experience these projects can turn into a money bit.

Here is the formula: Cheap,Fast,Reliable and you can only pick two.

Where in NJ are you? I'm in Edison.

If you do take the engine you should plan on throwing some money in it to rebuild it. That's gonna be a few hundred towards the swap.

I have the same issue with my 5spd. It will happen if I haven't driven the car in a few days. I keep the battery on a trickle charge now so it doesn't happen anymore.

Not sure if this helps but check the check valve on the vac line going to the master cylinder. It could be bad and allowing positive pressure in the system. That would make your pedal feel like a brick

Great news!

God dam!!!!! Do you have a pic of the setup?

Wow that's a ton of torque!

Thanks for the advice guys. Very much appreciated

I'm rebuilding a f54 block and I'm looking for 270-300whp. Now should I use the stock forged rods or invest in H beams that are about $380 from Zcar depot. I don't mind spending the money but if I don't need to then I won't. Thanks for your thoughts.

I did exactly what Atlantic z posted

This is just my 2 cents. I'm sure there are other ways but I think this way is proven and makes the most sense.

Start up for 10 min then change oil. Drive 50 miles at half boost and do alot of engine braking. You want the rings to set with your fresh hone. Change oil. Drive 100 miles at the boost you want and really get on it. There is no point on nursing an engine for the brEak in then beating the hell out of it when all the parts already settled in. I've done this numerous times on 50 trim garretts on 1.8t and never had a puff of smoke or blow by. Sorry, I just realized you asked what tune to use to break in the car, not the procedure.

I had a ton of charging issues with my 75. I ended up just switching to a 280zx alternator and rewired how the write-up stated. Problem solved for 3 years now.

Here is my baby

Just to put in perspective I cut the floors out of my 280z and replaced them with ZED Findings setup. I welded them in then had it towed to a shop to check my work and install new rails. They also repaired rust in my engine bay. That cost me 1700 in labor. The price for the floors and rails was close to 400. The time I put in myself was probably 30hrs. Rust is a mofo!!!

Grannyknot is spot on. I'd be nervous using parts off an engine that seized. By that I mean if metal got thrown around in the oil it probably made its way through the turbo and the head.

VA on the coil goes on the front and HA are the rears. Search vogtland springs and it will show that VA is vorderasche. Which means front axle in german. Funny thing is my rears tires 2255016 scrap on turns even with cutting 1 inch off the lip to fit fender flares.

Lol MYBONER. When I was 18 I'd do that. Now at 33 with 3 kids I think MY DEBT suits me better lol.