Racer Z

John - What's the Nissan Part Number of this "new stud"?

My new output shafts arrived the other day :) They look good!, just like the pictures in a previous post. We're not quite ready to do the install, but I did fit one. It fits like a glove! Awesome work John and datrod! When we get to the job of installing this unit, I will take some pictures and write up something. I'm sure it will be as straight-forward as it seems. Thanks again to John at Beta Motor Sports and datrod.

I'm impressed and I'm not easily impressed.

Nice. I did a search on YouTube for "hobbing" and "spline". Watched several more interesting videos.

Is it possible to get a few sots of the "hobbing"? Or will that be impossible?

Ok. We also have a 73 240z and our STi LSD is missing it's studs. Thanks for the heads-up.

datrod - Those are some interesting pictures of the process. I think you said heat treating next then cut the splines. How are you going to cut the splines? One at a time in an end-mill? 27 x 40 is more than I can count. Surely there must be a better way.

We haven't ordered anything yet. My brother says he will... That's pretty much what I figured. My brother and I have a different view here. I say it's new enough that the seals are probably good. He says, 1) It's too much trouble to remove the diffy if the seals fail shortly. 2) Everything else we thought we could get away without replacing has been wrong. (We did not replace the diffy mount when we did the suspension bushings and it failed before we got to the sidewalk. LMAO it was only 40 years old.) 3) Since it's only $40 bucks, let's do it and be done. I don't disagree with his logic, but...

We R&R'd our stock rear-end recently to do the suspension bushings. Although we did not try to fit our STi LSD, I don't think the longer studs will be an issue. It will be easy to double-nut the studs and change them out if push comes to shove. Now that I think about it, our unit is missing the studs, how much longer are the STi studs vs the 240z studs?

The WRX uses a 25 spline shaft and the STI uses a 27 spline shaft. This will fit on one and not the other. Hopefully it's the 27 spline version cause that's what my diffy has. Yes, I would like to watch the progress.

"that that that that that that that that that that" "S30-STI Output Shaft" works for me.

No, I haven't. My brother, beermanpete, seems to think the side seals will be as you described and that the input seal will be the same as the side seals. Pete is seldom wrong, but we haven't actually done this job yet. Does anybody have any hands-on with this? Was it as easy as I think it will be?

I'm still in. We have everything needed (I think) and ready to go. We're going to reseal ours while it's out of the car. Should cost about $40 for the three seals and one gasket. If you're having trouble finding seals at a fair prices, the STI seals cross-referenced to the 240Z seals. Subaru wanted over $100 for one seal and Kragen wants $10 for the 240z part with the same stock number. (Impreza, WRX, STI, 240z share the same seal set. I bet the 510 interchanges as well.) If the 240Z seals don't fit, I will let you all know.

Leave it to the Brits to be the standout.

I don't have any "hands-on" with the 510's. I have stumbled upon tid-bits here and there in forums, so I speak without knowing the truth here. I'm pretty sure the 510 has a R160 diffy. I'm pretty sure that the R160 and R180 share the same housing (510, 240z, Subaru) making them directly interchangeable. I think I read that the Dimes (510's) do use the R180 from the 240z as an upgrade without needing to modify anything. Again, I have no hands-on here and don't know the realities. You might try this 510 club, The Dime Quarterly

The filler plug is just a standard pipe plug that can be purchased at any hardware store for a few dollars. There is no "metric" or "American Standard" pipe threads. This is a world-wide standard "tapered pipe thread" with one (1) thread pitch. Lets hope no dirt and water decided to make a home inside the open door.

In a Private Message I was asked: and thought I would share my answer with you all as it does pertain to the thread discussion.

$600 sounds about right. I picked mine up in Craig's List for $200. Used clutch-types (R180) to fit a 240Z are hard to find, very expensive, and getting parts might be hard. I can only find one new LSD (R180) to fit the 240Z, and it's NOT a clutch-type. AND, it costs more than putting in a STI unit. The Subaru STI (not WRX) should be good up to 400 HP. They are a direct bolt-in with John's new output shaft. They're near new and easy(er) to find. Replacement parts (aftermarket) are plentifully and lower cost. I have not checked the OEM parts yet. The total price for this near-new STI LSD (clutch-type) is a bargain compared to the price of a beat-to-death, 30 year old unit. (I guess I said that already.)

Hmm... Won't be ready for Willow Springs (Jan 23-24), but should be able to do The Streets of Willow in Feb (27-28) for driving school. The Streets is one tight track. An LSD there should help a lot.

Excellent!

I've been savin' my Blue Chip Stamps for a rainy day. I predict rain in the near future. And I'm going to give em all to John.

That will make the install a lot easier and less expensive. We have an air gun, STI LSD and stock diffy. I guess all we need is the new output shafts that John is working on.

Does changing the input flange effect the preload? I've never been inside a diffy. What's involved in changing the input flange on the R180?

I have seen the STI driveshaft and the WRX driveshaft. The WRX and 240z driveshafts will not properly fit the STI R180 LSD. The mating flanges are all similar, yet different. At 100 MPH, I would not trust anything except correctness. I got a quote from http://driveshaftmasters.com/index.html on steel and aluminum, "A steel shaft $340.00 Alu. shaft $500.00". These are made with ALL NEW parts. I have not yet bought anything. Considering that a used STI driveshaft is $200 plus the mods, $340 sounds reasonable.