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Everything posted by supershanesta

  1. I was just pulling my 240z out of the driveway and it died. I originally thought I might be low on gas but it turns out I am not getting spark. I connected my computer and it senses rpm. I can test the injectors and even hear the clicking in the cabin when doing a spark test but it's not creating a spark on the distributor. Do you have steps I could follow with a multimeter to figure out the exact issue? MS2 3.0 L28et. Single coil to stock distributor setup. Thanks, Shane
  2. I used harbor freight Sanders and a hand block kit. Very very important. Used the electric stuff to get the over Bondo off than used hand to finish it up
  3. Here is the Dimensions if someone is interested.
  4. Shit but effective means that the welds dont look pretty but it effectively shields from water and rust. It is non structural and hidden. If the weld is solid, grinded flat, and painted you would never tell the difference. It can be done properly with patience. Which I have. I will post pictures after. Thanks, Shane
  5. Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I bought the cheapest welder that HF has to offer! lol. I have seen others use this on a datsun and weld in panels without too much issue. I know it burns hot, I know it uses flux but I plan to do small beads and move around to get it done right. I am practicing with sheet metal now. If you think this is a very bad idea let me know, but after doing testing I think it can be done. Might not be the cleanest, but It can be done. My dad always tells me "SBE" Shitty but Effective. That's my goal.
  6. Your right. At the end of the day it will be worth it for me to learn. I can use it on other parts of the car later down the road. Also a good point as it is not visible and structural. If it doesn't look great who cares. I really appreciate your guy's responses. I think I will be going the diy route and buying welder. It will come in handy for sure! I will be posting my progress here later in the weekend and hopefully get it done in the next couple weeks after I feel comfortable welding. Thanks, Shane
  7. Well I got a quote.... $600. This is from Craigslist. At that price I feel like I should just buy a Vulcan 140 welder from Harbor Freight for $400 and make this a DIY. Practice for a week and go for it. Anyone here weld? Do you think it would be too ambitious of me to try to do it myself with little to no experience?
  8. Interesting. Did he do the same repair or something else?
  9. lol I need to find a buddy to weld. Well I guess I will start looking into it. Better sooner than later.
  10. To me, it just depends on how much worse. If its not going to change much in 3 years then i would rather wait. But it does suck to stare at it.
  11. Hey Guys, I just finished doing vinyl work on my car and forgot about a major rust area at the back hatch sill. My question is.. can I wait? I plan to get the car sandblasted, rust corrected and painted in 3 to 4 years and would like to hold off but I can tell its bad. I bought a replacement top sill but I know damage is done underneath. If I paid someone to do the bottom piece (fab and welding) would it be expensive? Say over $500. I am not comfortable welding. I am in California and owned the car for 2 years and never touched the rust knowing I need to asap before the rear tail light area gets worse. Would the rust get much worst in that time or would it be similar and I should just wait. Thanks for your help, Shane
  12. Here is a video of the process that I did. Just a quick edit if you want to check it out.
  13. Yes. You tuck it under with the vinyl wrapping tool and I used like a tint square or interior trim tool. I used vinyl wrapping knifeless tape to cut it very close to the rubber and just tuck maybe an 1/8 to a 1/4 MAX of an inch under the rubber. I practiced before and I would used knifeless tape. I did the rear hatch by hand and messed up although you can't notice unless up close. The spots with damaged paint... I sanded. primed and painted. and sanded 1000 grit wet. It needs to be smooth like original paint to stick properly. I would do a good job painting because I had issue with paint peeling when I lifted the vinyl to pull, which ruined vinyl and finish. My first post talks about that. I would sand with 400 or 320 then prime, then sand, then paint, then sand. It needs to be hardened and stick well to the original paint. It needs to fully cure before applying vinyl. I would wait a couple days before applying as the gas from paint curing can ruin the vinyl. I had issue around the rear hatch with 1. Bad paint and 2. Bad gasket. So I paid to have the glass removed and reinstalled with new gasket. As he was working on the new gasket I sanded the area and applied paint. It would be really hard to wrap around dry, crusty rubber. If its in half decent shape and the paint just has chipping just sand it smooth and your good to go. The only time you need to apply new paint is if you sand through to metal. Normally you can fix chips with just light sanding.
  14. Hmm idk. You could ask a vinyl guy. Might need paint over it first.
  15. Thanks for the responses guys. I appreciate it! My car did look like shit for sure, but turned out okay. Wrapping the z is doable with patience's. If you paint it in good shape this is a good option for sure. I actually was just speaking with a guy who finished a 240z and he only charged 1500 which included the vinyl. I was thinking next time I would have them do it. It turned out great. Anyways here the final results!!! The hard part was taking off all the locks, windows, door handles, and finding the same bolts to put it back together.
  16. Hey guys, I got this car and never cared to look although I knew that I needed to add bump stops. The prior owner mentioned that he added lowering springs and that he forgot to add the bump stops. I really need to put those back in because going over any hair thin crack in the road causes my whole car shake. While I am at it changing those. Do these springs look overloaded? They have almost no play and look nearly bottomed out. Is this normal under load without bump stops? Thanks in advance, Shane
  17. Update.... Had the buckets wrapped. Car should be assembled this Sunday.
  18. I took the guts out of a 280z tach on eBay for 40 dollars and put it in the 240z housing, with 240z gauge plate and needle. Works perfect with my ms2 and cant see a difference. There is a guide out there for this. Like softtopz said might be other ways but its pretty darn simple. Shane
  19. Funny you say that. I built an MS2 from scratch for l28et, with stock dizzy and single coil and have the save issue with my leds. My board works. Car runs great. Everything works just no leds. In my opinion, if it works... it works. I worried about it for a while, but now I haven't thought about it until right now! BUT i did have all leds working on my megastim. Again if you see input in TunerStudio then your good in my experience. RPM will not be right unless you switch it to the correct setting for the megastim. Shane
  20. I ordered 50 feet but did not wrap the cowl or the front lower valiance. I still need to wrap the buckets and turn signals and am hopping I have enough. I would recommend 55 or more to be safe. I have almost no vinyl to spare. Also for testing purposes or if you make a mistake it would be good to have. Thanks Austenp! Exactly the goal not perfect, but enough to look pretty good!
  21. Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pictures. The paint had to be sanded or removed to metal and bondo was applied. First time ever really doing body work and it looked OKAY. I did have a professional come and do the final things to the driver's side fender and door. Lots of chipping paint that needed to be sanded. After things were sanded and looked pretty good, spray can primer was sprayed on the trouble spots, then sanded, then black rustoleum, then sanded. Finally I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit and made sure all surfaces were smooth. Then the fun began. Vinyl took around 20 hours to finish in a weekend. This did not include the headlight buckets, turn signals, or cowling which I am still trying to figure out. The car being unibody caused issue. The rear bumper section is 1 piece which is then overlapped 1 inch by the quarter panel which is then overlapped by the roof. Knifeless tape was key to get smooth lines. The hood is harder then it looks because of the round center bubble. Really have to stretch and pull to get in on right. Also getting the vinyl to stick properly on the back required cleaning all edges and even applying loctite super glue.... I know not the right way, could use primer 94, but actually works! Just don't get that near any exterior surfaces or you will leave marks on the laid vinyl. Fenders are one of the easiest. Tucking around the wheel arch was a little tough. Make sure to clean these back areas so that no dirt is in between were you want the vinyl to stick on the inside. This is were I started to notice that my rusto paint would start to peel if we kept taking off and re-applying the vinyl. There are spots were you can see this for sure, but oh well.... it cost 500 dollars. Also you would get specs of shit for the same reason, small pieces of paint peeling up. Moral of the story. Only works on really good paint or paint that is strong against the body. Should have spent more time in that regard. Rear bumper area was pretty easy just a flat piece. The quarter panels were the most difficult. Trying to get around the rain gutter was a challenge. We accidentally cut the vinyl and had to pivot to a new plan regarding the roof. Paint was peeling up if we removed it so we went with what we got. If we were to peel it off... I would have to sand the whole quarter panel over again. Made it work, just needed to add an intermittent piece between the quarter panel and roof. Getting around the back taillight area was a little hard as you really need to stretch it. I assumed the inner edge would mostly be hidden by the taillight panel, but more is exposed then I thought. Might try to adjust this better. Roof and hatch were also pretty difficult. If you have old shitty gaskets around the glass. CHANGE THEM. Tucking underneath that shit would have been way harder than it already was. I got new rubber were needed and it was way worth it. If you mess up on a part like that... there goes 70 bucks in vinyl to redo it. Tucking worked best with knifeless tape in my opinion. Don't forget the sides of the windshield... I used a small inlay for that. Also the bottom area below the door is an inlay. Here is the vinyl result.... get it... vinyl result Might keep the windshield wiper area black... its scary when you see all the spots were it needs to be cut! Here is a picture of how we did the inlays from quarter panel to roof. It turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have learned a lot about this process as I went because there is not too much info about unibody cars. I would say that this is a pretty difficult job and very tedious. Details are important, missing a cut or making a mistake can make it look bad. We had mistakes, bumps, paint chips you name it, but the point of this was to get the car looking good for a couple years for cheap until I am ready to get the car painted. What I would suggest if you want to do this... - Make everything really smooth. - If painting, take your time and get it to stick well. Paint peeling and sticking to the vinyl was the biggest issue I experienced. - Have a friend. My dad worked the whole time with me.... I can't thank him enough. I did a trial hood before all this on my own and it took 2 times as long and looked way worse. - Plan out all the cuts before you apply. Thought I would share my experience. If you have any questions about it let me know. I hope to reassemble the car in the next 2 weeks.
  22. Amazing taaron thanks for posting that. I have mine rigged on and will use your attached file!
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