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About gmorrone1214

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    Brick, NJ

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  1. You were right, it was the 12v cable to the starter itself that was bad. I checked it again this time with a test light and it was not coming on at the 12v at the starter. However, my multi-meter was reading 12v there.... Replaced it and now works like a charm
  2. I am going to try and do the relay mod as above because there is no way that the wiring is wrong. I have had the car driving over the past 2 years and have not changed anything with the wiring besides megasquirt, which I wired up and have been running in the car for over a year. That other red wire goes to the megasquirt board, with the other yellow one as the engine ground.
  3. So I decided to test the starter again off the car. I hooked up the ground the the starter and then placed the positive on the solenoid switch, which just resulted in the gear pushing out and not spinning. Then I hooked up the positive of the battery to the positive side of the starter and used a screwdriver to bridge onto the solenoid, which resulted in the starter motor spinning. Verified that it still worked, so I hooked it back up to the flywheel. Here comes the strange part. So with it attached normally as above in the photos, I cannot get the starter to spin. I tired to just just the positive terminal with the solenoid, which results in nothing happening at all, no sparks or engaging of the starter. I thought maybe no power is going to the positive side of the terminal. Nope 12.2 volts at the positive terminal of the starter. Just to be safe I used a dremel polishing disk and cleaned up the connectors. However, I got the starter to spin the motor over! But there is only one way I can get it to do that. I have to hook up a jumper cable from my truck battery to the positive side of the starter and then jumper it to the starter solenoid (i didn't touch the jumper cable when doing this). I have no idea how to fix this problem since it shows the volts at the starter, and when using the ignition to turn over the engine all I get is a single click, however I know the starter motor will work...
  4. So I checked my grounds again, and the bottom circled one was not connected 😐. However, after connecting it as in the picture, to the top of the starter, still no start. I am however just getting a single click sound coming from the starter. It does not even sound as if the gear is sticking out. Also again verified not a battery problem since I jumped it directly from my truck battery. Maybe not having the ground connected and trying to run the starter damaged it and I need a new one?
  5. Hello everyone, long story short my starter went bad and I replaced it with a new unit. However, when trying to start the vehicle there is only one single loud click (sounds as if the starter gear is moving out of the starter but it is not spinning the motor). I confirmed this by using a remote start and jumping the terminals, which results in the same issue, single loud click as if the starter gear is moving. I also took off the starter cleaned the areas with a wire wheel on a dremel, and cleaned up ground wire. Still same outcome. Then I tested the voltage at the battery when activating the starter and the volts stayed at 11.8-12.4 volts. I took the starter to autozone to check if it was functioning, which on their tester I witnessed the gear move out and spin freely 3 separate occasions. Threw it back in and still same result. Then checked to see if the engine was frozen for some reason (was driving car prior to this), and it spins over freely. Lost at what to do next....any help is appreciated, really trying to get this up and running with the new HY35 turbo.
  6. Thank you, I appreciate the quick reply's. Not that many S130's up here in Alaska, nor S30. Debating on the manual or the power rack and pinion, I know that a lot of the power racks need rebuilds fairly often.
  7. Hello everyone, I am trying to find out if a 240-280z manual rack and pinion with the cross-member will fit the S130. I want to replace the reciprocating power steering because it is leaking and I also need room for a bigger turbo upgrade. I know that the zx also had a manual R&P, but I just found a good deal on the 240z set and need to know if it will fit the zx.
  8. I acutally changed it using the proto area after posting that picture. So now the resistors sit in there with leads to the appropriate holes. Jumpers are as followed: VR Sensor: -VRIN to Tachselect -TSEL to VROUT Single High Output Coil -IGBTOUT to IGN -330r 1/4w res IGBTin and top of R26 Power -S12c to JS9(+12c)
  9. About to start up the car this weekend, just have to finishing wiring the distributor and the fuel pump and then its good to go. May be a dumb question but wiring the distributor as per this diagram ----The 12v+(B/W): Guessing this is switched? I am using the relay board, so is there any slots I can plug it into or just find a random 12v switch wire?
  10. How would I wire this to Megasquirt? The middle pin should be the signal wire, but how do I know which pin is the ground and the other power?
  11. Just ran into a clearance problem that I do not see addressed in other forums. The way the steering is set up (outlined in red) there is no way that I can fit this hy35 holset in there. Is the swap that I need manual rack and pinion to make this fit? Did not think this was going to be a problem with the swap ugh 😤
  12. Test it with a screwdriver (poke around at it) and see if it is completely rusted out structurally. If you can mig weld , or weld in general it isn't a hard fix. And if you dont want to patch fix it they also have complete floor boards and rails you can weld on.
  13. Roger that. About to wire it up in the ZX and have chickenman help with the tune.
  14. gmorrone1214


    Delete please, got the part.
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