zxtman
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Posts posted by zxtman
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I'm stating that the FSM says very clearly to run ATF in your Borg Warner T5.
I disagree.
The FSM states to use the following gear oil for the Turbo Model Transmission:
"API GL-4 SAE 80W-90 OR Type Dexron", see attachment below:
Those syncros are like paper and need to be treated very nicely with very thin oil otherwise they'll grind and destroy themselves quite easily.The Standard T5 uses brass synchros and not fiber as in the World Class T5.
Some good info here:
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm
There's conflicting information being posted, ...So which is it guys?
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You need to be running ATF,...
Were did you get this information? If I recall correctly, the Nissan T5 is a non-World Class T5. Read below (from the last paragraph of this link).
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm
One last piece of important information. ALL World Class T-5 use ATF oil and NOT heavy gear oil or Redline MTL! All NON-World Class T-5 use 70 wt gear oil. We recommend high quality Synthetic oil as it lasts a long time and over a larger operating temperature. It is important to change the oil in your transmission based on how you use the vehicle. If the vehicle is your daily driver then changing the oil every two to three years is fine. However, if the transmission sees regular track duty and pushed hard, then once or twice a year is in order. When we rebuild transmissions, we can tell when the oil has been changed often as the parts are much cleaner with less over all wear. There is no filter inside the manual transmission only a magnet at the bottom to pick up the metallic particles in the oil, the only metallic parts in a transmission is the gears or bearings. Oil is cheap, transmissions are not!
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The last thread on this subject that I found was back in 2009. I am doing my stroker motor and need a 91mm x 2mm metal head gasket. Has anyone had any luck finding any lately?
Tom
Would you consider a used MLS HG? I have (2) 1mm head gaskets collecting dust. I don't know if it's recommended by the manufacturer, but many have had success re-using MLS gaskets with a good cleaning and coppercoat. Also, the rivets holding the layers together can be removed and replaced after assembling the number of layers you need to obtain the HG thickness required.
Just a thought...
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Have you "listened" to the injectors with a stethoscope (or a big screwdriver) while you are cranking the engine? You should be hearing a pronounced clicking (opening & closing of injector); if not, the injector(s) may be stuck. This could have been caused from the the engine not being run for an extended period of time (months).
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I haven't had issues with MTL on the track; although others (not being used to the T5) that have driven my car, are not as clean with the shifting and have commented about notchy shifting, problems with downshifting, and grinding gears. With the T5 on the street, there's no issue, and on the track, as long as I match revs, I seldom have a problem.
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The "weight" and "type/brand" of oil depend on the intended use.
FWIW, I use Red Line MTL for the T5 and Red Line 75W90 for the R200.
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...looks good. How about the rears?
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I've been dealing with this for a few months now, and have not been able to narrow it down to an obvious answer. There is no rhyme or reason to it. Some times at WOT I get a strong and steady 10psi, while other times I'm getting a louder than usual "whoosh" of air sound on the drivers side as power drops off. Like I'm coasting, and just blowing air. It will still read 10psi on the boost gauge while boost drops off. Doesn't matter if it's at take off, or from a rolling start. Some times boost is there, some times it just drops off.
Been running stock boost again until I get this figured out. I'm beginning to question my ECU since this is such an off and on thing. I really don't think I have a boost leak going on. I've checked piping, couplers, hoses, etc MULTIPLE times now.
From the information you've provided, I'm assuming you do not have this problem when running stock boost (6 PSI?), but you do at 10 PSI. Could it be blow-by and time for a new set of rings? Have you you performed a compression test on the motor? ...it might be time to "freshen-up" the motor.
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No - it's an AutoMeter Phantom gauge 2 5/8", and it checks out in perfect step with the 1" gauge too. Power loss - definitely, but I have my timing a bit retarded, and never build enough boost to get into detonation before it goes bone lean and falls flat on its' face. I've pretty much determined it's the Aeromotive pump. I should have bought the other one (11106) and not this POS A1000 - which appears to be only for strip usage. It has a caveat that you need to buy a voltage regulator to the tune of $320 if you intend on running the car for more than 30min. at a shot. What a crock of shizzle.......dang dang dang and shame on me..... they advertise it as one thing on Summit's website, and then when you get down to the nitty-gritty of the install guide - you find out ALL the other crap you have to buy to make it work right. I'm pretty sure that's the issue. Can't confirm 100%, but I'm leaning that way.
I am not a fan of the A1000. Read this thread.
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Do you feel a power loss or have detonation when your fuel pressure guage reads 18-22psi under boost? If not, your gauge is probably bad. Try a different gauge. I do not trust those little 1" fuel pressure guages, if that's what you're using.
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As the title says, I'm losing fuel pressure under boost and going terribly lean. I upped fuel pressure to 42psi last night, and made a few runs. When the car gets warm/hot, I lose HALF of the fuel pressure when the car goes under boost. Drops to about 18-22psi.
MS1 fuel only. Idle AFR's and cruise are 10.8-13.2. When the car gets hot, they go up to about 12.2 - 14.4.
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump through Aeromotive filter - all Aeroquip -8 AN from the pump up to the front. Converts down to -6AN just before hitting the fuel rail. Return is -8AN as well. Fuel is not boiling. I can touch the fuel line and it's not even warm. If I let off the gas under boost, pressure comes right back to 42.
This pump should supply this car easily. There's no way I'm making more than 350hp right now. This pump should supply a car with double that.
I'm thinking I have a pinched line somewhere?? As the car gets hotter, the fuel hose becomes more pliable and cuts off more fuel. It didn't do this a couple months ago. I could boost until the cows came home. Only in the hotter weather is it prevalent.
OR - could the drop from -8 to -6 prior to the fuel rail be an issue? I have no idea at this point. Any ideas??? Do I need a freakin' surge tank???
Check your FPR first. How old is that pump?
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Got to go with Spork on this one, a Forged stock-specification L28 piston will be roughly the same cost as a 'custom' one where you specify different ring land configuration, different oil wiper, maybe different pin height or diameter.
Forged is Forged.
My misunderstanding, ...nevermind.
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Custom pistons don't tend to cost any different than a stock piston either,...
I wish that were true.
Stock L28et pistons range from $50 to $60 each. I paid $49/ea (p/n 12010-P9012) from Nissan. Custom forged pistons cost about double.
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...simple question, do you have a fan shroud?
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...try steel flat bar on both sides of the flange and press together with a c-clamp.
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... does anyone know were to get bumpsteer spacers for an 84' Z31?
If your concern is correcting bump steer, you could accomplish this by using a tie rod that allows for bump steer adjustment.
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... in other words, look closely at the photos. It is shown in more than one occasion and in different configurations.
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yes. those are the injectors that i am running.
I have the connectors. Also, the injectors are good and are for sale (cheap). Shoot me a pm.
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...is this the injector you are using???
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...,these coilovers were for a S13 but could fit on a 280zx like they did on my donor car...
...so S13 rear coil overs fit on an S130??? Can anyone confirm this?
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All this talk about EGTs means nothing without knowing where in the exhaust tract the temperature is taken.
There could be up to, and even more than, a 200 degree difference when the probe is located 2" after the exhaust port on the head compared to at the collector right before the turbo flange (even more of a difference depending on the length of the header). Or even more of a difference if the probe is in the down pipe (after the turbo).
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These wheels are similar. Although not offered in 0 offset, it is offered in 25mm offset.
4x114.3, 16x7. $350 shipped is not bad. Pick up a set of 25mm spacers/adapters and you're set.
http://jlbmotorsports.com/rims/konig-list.html#CountersteerR
Similarities are lug pattern and number of spokes, and that's where it ends.
You can not compare Volk to Konig. Volks are in a different league..., and I'm partial to Volk Wheels.
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These adapters may work fine in lower boost/HP motors, but they have their limits and may not work as well in higher boost/HP motors.
What is not desirable about these wastegate adapters is the 90 degree turn the exhaust gas has to make; especially as the speed of the exhaust increases, it becomes more and more difficult for the exhaust gas to make the turn. If you can manage it, a 45 degree angle or less is better.
datsun to w58 conversion check this out
in Drivetrain
Posted · Edited by zxtman
Has anyone looked into whether the GForce T5 Upgrade Kit will work in the Nissan T5? Thay have several gear types available and gear ratios as well, and they claim the kit will handle roughly 600 hp or 500 ft-lb. of torque in a 3300 lb. vehicle running drag radials at the track...
http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp
UPDATE:
Nevermind, I contacted Gforce and asked the following:
Nissan used a T5 in the 1982-83 280ZX Turbo. Can the G-Force Street 5-Speed upgrade kit be used for this application?
The response was:
"No, I am sorry it will not fit into that, it is too old. They only fit world class cores."