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Posts posted by zxtman
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(new problem btw - i sacked all these things in ziplock bags for shipping, then sharpied the bag with piston number... engine oil ate my sharpie, and now i'm not sure which is which... wtf do i do about that?
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check the sides of the con rod and con rod cap: they should have the cylinder number stamped on them.
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How do you think it would look? Obviously it wouldnt be functional.
It sure would be functional. It would increase drag coefficient.
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just pull the power steering belt and see how you like manual steering. Got big arms?
Not so. A power rack without a belt is harder to turn than a manual rack.
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If it's a daily driver, I would go with the power rack; otherwise, especially if it's a track car, I would go with a manual rack. Also, a manual rack means one less accessory (belt) to deal with.
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Still working!
Do you have pictures of the rear? I'd like to see how you finished the rear without the bumper. Looks great!
Thanks.
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Also if I do decide to buy from the oring nazis which do I get, small or large? To be more specific these are the orings that push into the intake manifold and seal the tip of the injectors to the manifold.
To seal the tip of the stock injectors, you need the small o-rings. The large o-rings install around the body of the injectors so that they fit snug in the plastic injector holder.
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I ended up fabricating the caps. They fit great with no leaks.
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I'm having a difficult time finding these caps. They install on the outer joint of the Z31 CV axle ("Double Offset-Birfield" type). They are NLA from Nissan and I have been unlucky at the junk yard.
Short of having a set faricated, I thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone has an idea and can help. Nissan calls them "slide joint plugs". I have attached an image for reference.
Thanks.
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There really isn't any adjusting you can do other than to bend the arms inside to make sure they are making contact.
I don't agree with that statement. There are 2 fasteners that attach the TPS to the throttle body and the TPS can be rotated for adjustment.
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You can splice in another sensor harness. Make sure you have a good connection and leave as much of the shielding in place as you can. I've done this with success.
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just to be clear, is it the breather filter on the valve cover that oil is leaking from?
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Check to make sure your valve cover has the baffle in it that creates a chamber within the valve cover. If you take off the valve cover, you should not be able to see the opening where you have the breather filter installed.
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A turbo guy I know said its set up for a V band flange. Is this correct?!
Yes. That is correct. The turbo in the picture has likely never been used and is set-up for a v-band flange to be welded to the exhaust housing.
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Another option, rather than using an adapter, is to weld on the fitting of your choice. That's what I did with an AN aluminum weld-in bung.
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if none of the above suggestions help, check the oil pump. the springs may be weak or the pump itself may need to be replaced due to wear. how many miles on that motor?
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I bought my 81 280ZXT at the beginning of last summer. Flew to New Jersey and drove it back to the midwest. One owner, turned 70K miles on the way home and still has the original floor mats. Now its a sunny summertime driver only.
...Beautiful car! It looks like it is in such great shape that I wouldn't do anything to it other than maintain it. It still amazes me that this car sold for over $17,000 when new. Good luck with it.
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FYI ... just so that we all know, the exact number is 5252
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I let the car sit overnight and change the oil cold the next day. When you shut down the engine the oil is hot and drains into the pan: all the oil that will make its way to the pan, does so.
Why would you start-up the engine to heat-up the oil just to drain it? Not all of the oil will have made its way into the pan.
This makes no sense to me.
Besides, who enjoys doing a hot oil change!?
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3" minimum height on this one. I've been using it for 3 years.. got it for $69 on sale.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91039
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here are the rear coilovers..
How did you make those without welding onto the shock body??
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In the case of the Z32, 90-91 cars had alloy calipers and the later cars went to cast iron calipers of the same design due to flex problems.
Doug71zt,
I'm curious, has this flex problem been documented?
How does one know if the problem exists and what ill effects it may contribute?
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Any word on the manufacturer of the side and rear skirt??
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Posted by: MONZTER
The first two pictures show the inlet points in the gasket surface. You will notice that there are holes in the head that are blocked off by the HKS steel gasket. These could flow water if the gasket was opened up. In the second picture you will see holes in the head gasket that do not have holes going into the head. This makes me wonder if this was for a reason, or just a manufacturing convenience, so that 1 head gasket design would fit many application of the different years. I wonder if an improvement could be had by opening the gasket up to the holes in the head, and the head up to the gasket. Hmmm.
Now here is my question:
I am about to install a new steel head gasket (replacing an old steel head gasket) and I realized, as shown in the first picture above, that (2) coolant passages are blocked by the gasket.
Did you found out what the reason is, if any?
Does the stock Nissan gasket block the same passages?
Anyone?
Thanks,
zxtman
High Flow oil pump
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
You should not assume this just because "someone else" checked one pump from one car.
Your best bet is to check with Nissan and you'll see that the part number for the high volume pump was specific to the turbo automatics.