zxtman
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Posts posted by zxtman
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There is a entire sep. post about that car already and kit already
True. But nowhere in that post does it state information on the manufacturer or where the front air dam can be obtained.
Someone please tell me they know where i can find this front body kit and those side skirts. how about something similar too it?
After spending a few hours looking around through a lot of Japanese sites (my Japanese is reading skills are limited)' date=' I "think" I might have found who makes those front air dams. The company also makes side skirts and rear bumpers for the S130z, as well as other old school Japanese vehicles (S30 and S31 included). I'll post it when I get home after new years.[/quote']
Hey "lifegrddude", please go ahead and post any info you have on the air dam & body kit: many would appreciate it.
Thanks.
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My friend found the other air dam also but I can bring only one home.
Do you have information on where the other air dam can be obtained? I assume you are referring to the air dam like the one on the gold ZX in the attachement?
I'm sure many of us would like to know.
Thanks.
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mobil 1 15-50 synthetic in south florida, year round
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I love the picture of the white jet hot coated header, ..right,....jet hot coating my ass. Look at all the overspray on the head and block: crappy spray paint job and the craftsmanship is poor. I wouldn't drop a dime on it.
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Check out the H&R website:
http://www.hrsprings.com/site/index.html
They have TRAK+ Wheel Adapters so that Porsche wheels can be used on other vehicles.
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... or you can do what I did and cut the metric fittings off the oil cooler and weld AN fittings. worked great and cheap!
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PCV is always a good idea, especially under boost where there is a lot of blowby...
the pcv valve is closed when there is boost, and only open when there is vacuum in the intake.
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I've had a t5 in my 280ZXT for over 15 years: with a motor that was putting out about 280hp, then 360, and now over 400hp. I had it rebuilt 2 years ago (synchro's, etc., not a major rebuild) and last month I broke the driveshaft putting power to the ground with sticky 275's. Gear box is holding up just fine, but I do not bang gears when shifting. Maybe I'm one of the lucky ones.
Would you guys that have not been so lucky describe your T5 experience: what happened and how, instead of just basically saying "they suck". That would be more helpful for someone making a transmission decision.
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my only problem with that is that after I bought my Areo 1000 I read the instructions and it said not to run with less than 10 gals of gas for long periods or not longer than 30min on low fuel. This I found out is cause the gas gets to warm and sounds more like rocks going through my fuel pump. So add a 2nd pump=more heat and surge tank =recirculated heated gas= bad.
Your problem is the fuel pump you're using. Get rid of that pump. It's a high volume pump (too high) and not the right pump for your application. That pump will overheat very quickly, and when that happens, it performs poorly and gets very loud. You could be experiencing vapor lock from too much heat in your fuel system.
I hate bar!The reason I asked about your base fuel pressure (in bar) is because the jwt ecu you are using is either programmed to run a 3bar or 4bar base fuel pressure, and there's a big difference between the two.
Aside from that, to solve your problem, you do not need a surge tank. You need a pump that will flow adequate volume of fuel at the pressure your running (base pressure + boost pressure).
This is from experience.
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I only see 1 core.
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At the regulator is the best location to obtain a fuel pressure signal (if there is a port available); otherwise, after the filter and as close to the fpr as possible.
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The thing I don't get is, Ive got this big *** high pressure fuel pump....
datsunan,
Just curious, are you running a 3 or 4bar base fuel pressure set up?
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After obtaining a 280ZX rear lower control arm and with the stub axle for evaluation it appears that the Z31 stub axle (with the Z32 wheel bearings and inner seal) will indeed fit into the 280ZX rear lower control arm housing without modifications!This opens up a lot of possibilities for 280ZX applications as the Z31 stub axle came in three different varieties: a four-lug hub, a five-lug hub and a five-lug hub that used a vented rotor (which has a thicker wheel mounting flange). Utilizing either the turbo or the non-turbo Z31 companion flange you can use either the ZX CV axles (3 bearing joint) or the stronger Z31 turbo CV axles (with the 5 bearing joint).
zcarnut,
glad it's working out for you! I used the five-lug hub with the vented rotor and thicker wheel mounting flange. Let me know how you decide to resolve your caliper issue. I used '87 Z31 calipers.
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Apparently larger fumps flow more fuel, generating more heat which could cause vapor lock. Anyone experiencing this and/or using a fuel cooler?
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Yeah. That's it.
The S130 T5 does have the same output shaft diameter and spline count as the tha Z31 T5. The difference is in the tail housing diameter. The Z31 T5 accepts a larger diameter slip yolk. So, in order for me to use the larger diameter slip yolk (which will enable me to use the larger Spicer u-joints), I have 2 options:
1. Basically to do what TimZ did; and that is to weld the tail housing from a Z31 T5 to my S130 T5.
2. To use a Z31 T5 gear box with my S130 T5 bell housing. If this is a direct bolt up, it would be sweet. Gear ratios are slightly different but would work to my advantage. I will be looking into this option this weekend.
Anyone know offhand if option 2 will work?
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I recently saw a picture on this forum (but cloud not find it: did a search) of a transmission that had the tail housing modified to accept a larger rear seal so that a beefier slip yolk could be used. I'm asking because I may have to do something similar. I beleive the Z31 has the same output shaft as the S130 T5 but has a larger diameter seal to accept a larger diameter slip yolk. I'm looking into using the Z31 slip yolk. It opens up my options for a stronger yolk and u-joint.
Any help appreciated.
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One last question zxtman: When I did a mock up using the Z31 stub axle I noticed that the wheel flange protruded about 3mm more beyond the lower control arm. Partly because the Z31 wheel flange is thicker. As a result this caused the brake rotor not to align with the caliper opening. You would have to shim the caliper out accordingly.
Did you have such a brake issue with your conversion?
I don't recall if there was a brake issue as you mention because at the same time that I did the CV and stub axle swap, I fabricated mounting brackets to adapt '87 Z31 calipers & rotors on my 280ZXT.
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What wheel bearings (part numbers please) did you use?
I looked into this before. The Z31 stub axle uses a smaller diameter bearing (30mm vs 32mm shaft OD) for the inner wheel bearing and a larger diameter bearing (35mm vs 32mm shaft OD) for the outer bearing when compared to the 280ZX stub axle. I could not find a set of standard bearings that would work.
Please enlighten us!
I did this about 5 years ago. I was so surprised and excited at how easy this was. Always keep in mind that different Nissans use many of the same parts. I'll check my notes tonight and let you know for sure tomorrow.
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I don't know what trans you are running but you can run a Spicer 1310 on the rear. I just did it on mine. Any drive shaft shop can convert it. It's alot larger than the stock one.
The driveshaft was custom made with spicer u-joints on front and rear. It appears that the "u" part on the rear of the driveshaft is twisted. I'll be pulling it out of the car tomorrow. I'll post pics.
I'm using a BW T5.
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Although I was tempted to buy the one from Summit, I would probably have spent the same amount of time modifying it as I would fabricating a new one. So I think you guys are right, custom is the way to go. (it's not the first time I'd had to make a custom part for this car)
I like Clifton's idea of using aluminum so I'll probably do that.
magnadyne, if you find that webpage let me know. Otherwise, I'll probably start fabricating a new one next week.
Warren, my cv axles are fine (I'm using '87 Z31 turbo cv axles). Its the u joint on the driveshaft that gave out.
Thanks for the info guys.
Will keep you posted.
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No. Although the Z31 Turbo axles will fit into any R200 diff, they are longer in length and require using the Z31 Turbo companion flange. And you can’t just swap companion flanges as the Z31 (both turbo and NA) uses a stub axle with a larger spline diameter than the S130 (it's even larger than the 280Z stub axle).
Why not swap stub axles too? I did it.
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Hey guys,
Can anyone recommend a driveshaft safety loop for a 280ZX?
Twisted a u-joint and was lucky it didn't separate. When I install the new driveshaft, I want to put the loop in as well.
Any help appreciated.
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Sorry to hear that. I heard it's a beautiful car and very well put together.
I love that course, is has it all: low speed obstacles (cones), hair pin, long sweeping turns that are blind, and it's fast! Also heard alot of people went off course. I ran it the last two years but missed this year unfortunately (was out of the country). You must have met my Z buddies there: Greg Ira, Jeff Milton, Guy Marvin, Larry Mahanor, to name a few (great group of guys).
Regarding the T/C rod, I'll be modifying mine the next month so I will be careful to make sure ther is no obstruction during suspension travel.
Again, sorry to hear about the mishap.
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I heard about your incident. T/C rod failure, wasn't it?
sexy sexy s130 body kit
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
That's the info I was looking for.
Much thanks lifegrddude.